Archive for the ‘Laos’ Category

Phonsavan to Sam Neua

Thursday, November 2nd, 2006

After one night in Phonsavan I was keen to do an overnight bus trip out of there rather than face another night there. Despite this, my sister had been on the phone after visiting Nong Khiaw and she never thought I’d see better scenery than there and Vang Vieng. Even an hour before I had to get to the bus station I was debating whether to use my prebooked ticket or not (again, a hefty cut taken from the Phoukham Guesthouse). I went for my original plan, then it was bolstered by bumping into a group from our Luang Prabang bus that were doing the same.

I met them (Francisco and Mauro from Argentina, Angelika from Germany, Owen from England, and Nick from Boston) again at the bus station, and got to know them pretty well while waiting for the bus. This bus was doing a complete trip from Vientiene to Sam Neua – a beast of a journey of around 20+ hours. Due to this, it didn’t turn up at 7.30 as expected so we waited. And waited. And waited. Put on more warm clothes (well, the few I had not posted home). And waited. It was cold in Phonsavan at night, like Scottish cold. Eventually after a few sandwiches and coffees later, the bus turned up at 11pm, and we burst into lively (nervous) hysterics.

I had already got used to buses being pretty overloaded in Laos, and Asia in general, but this one turned up with the rear six rows full of boxes and luggage, full of people, including the several sitting in the typical kids-style mini plastic seats deployed in the aisle. And at least 5 motorbikes, plus all the other luggage strapped on the roof.

Where were we going to fit in?

Just as we were about to load our luggage, a second bus arrived which was one third empty. There was no choice as we scrambled onto the second bus, milliseconds after confirming it was bound for Sam Neua as well. That was only after I had taken a photograph and watched my open camera drop to the ground from my wrist. I had nothing else in my hands, no excuse. I was gutted. My second camera within two months, and it was only four weeks old. As happens in travelling, you realise there’s nothing you can do about it, so you just have to carry on.

The 9 hour bus journey wasn’t the comfiest in Laos, as the road was quite twisty and I couldn’t really stretch my legs out. I was sitting next to a local who used my shoulder as an occasional headrest. The other five were sprawled out on the raised back seat, however it turned out they weren’t as comfy as they looked either. My stuffed paclite jacket didn’t prove to be an effective bum rest either.

We arrived at 8am in Sam Neua and it was even colder than Phonsavan. We were all pretty knackered but decided to get some food, and go straight to Vieng Xai rather than take a wee nap. It was refreshing to meet this bunch as there was no hassles – straight into a shared room to cut costs, and laughter all around. Despite them travelling together for a few days I wasn’t left out of it at all, so cheers guys if any of you read this.

Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars

Wednesday, November 1st, 2006

I spent today in a bus for 8 hours travelling from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan to see the Plain of Jars. I’m not too fussed about this really, but I am passing through so couldn’t not go. I’m on my way to see some caves beside the Vietnam border where they hid during the American bombing campaign they are still picking up the pieces from. Around here there is still loads of unexploded ordnance being cleared, largely supported by MAG from the UK. I think I’m doing a whistle stop tour tomorrow, and head to a Mong village to see where they have made some houses from parts of ordnance.

I think I’m going to tortue myself and come back from the tour and straight onto a night bus to Nam Sua (maybe spelt incorrectly) to save me a day as I already feel badly short of time for stuff I want to do. I could easily kill a month in Laos!

Luang Prabang to the Plain of Jars, Phonsavan

Wednesday, November 1st, 2006

I left Luang Prabang for Phonsavan a day after after my sister left Luang Prabang. After multiple options of where to head to I decided to stick to my original plans and got the 8hr daytime road trip to Phonsavan, arriving just in time for dinner. At lunch we stopped briefly in a transit town where I ended up chatting to Cecile from France, well, the French Reunion Island off Madagascar. She was to become my travelling partner and fellow conned merchant for the next day’s trip to the Plain of Jars.

Phonsavan is a pretty, well it’s fair to say, dead town. There’s on strip with guesthouses and a few less than outstanding restaurants. And it’s cold (at least it is in October, but not as cold as other places in Laos). We stayed in Phoukham Guesthouse which turned out to live up to it’s phonetic English sound (alberit slightly manipulated) – “F*ck’em”. We paid three times as much as the other two girls on our tour the next day, and he refused to take me to the town I really wanted to see (he wanted an extra $15 each for that, despite already paying $12 more than others). After some negogiating (pleading) I decided to bin visiting the town over giving him extra cash so left Phonsavan a tad disappointed as I never managed to see the town that has houses constructed of UXO (UnXploded Ordnance) stilts. About the most interesting thing about Phonsavan, but in a very sad way, is that it’s the home of the UK based MAG group that tries to find UXO in the area, which was the most bombed in recent wars. Their office only pointed me to the website when I asked about volunteering and how you went about it. They must be well funded though as they had a load of flash 4×4’s outside.

Oh yeh – the Plain of Jars…is it worth the trip? If I had known I probably wouldn’t have done it, but I did as it was on my way to Sam Neua / Vieng Xai and it broke up my journey. Our tour guide didn’t give us too much background, but that’s partially as their origin isn’t totally understood yet. I’m sure it’s of interest to many, but it is just a field with ancient rock jars on it, which are pretty weird in their own right.

Blog updates

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006

Spent quite a bit of today sitting with a coffee on the riverbank catching up with blog etc. I’ve put some more funny stories up re: Myanmar and some pics and stuff about Laos.

Still Laos, but where next here?

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006

Before the blurb, here’s some images of people in a local Mong village :





Yesterday I got up at 5.30am to see the monks walking down the main road, getting their alms (is that how you spell it?), then heading on the trek. In the evening I bought a duvet cover (yes, excatly, but hey it was fab, hand made, and $15, AND my sister was taking it wither her ;->). This is one of the things I find hard when moving around – it’s the main time I buy anything at all for my flat, and I see loads of handicrafts I’d like back home, but this time I’m not heading back in a few days so I just can’t do that.

Luang Prabang is also a handy place to get a visa for onward travel if you are in SE Asia, and hanging around for a few days. Visas for Myanmar, China, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand can be arranged, sometimes withing a day, but often going via Vientiene. By the sounds of it, Luang Prabang is a better place to hang around while someone stamps your visa. I arrived too late to put my passport in last night, and had several options for where I went next, so I decided to hang around another day… here were my otions :

– head to Nong Khiaw just north of here with my sister – a planned destination, but it’s not the best route for me
– wait for a day and head to Phonsavan (Plain of Jars) with Luc I met in Myanmar, then head to Vieng Xai myself near the Vietnamese border, then back to Luang Prabang via NOng Khiaw
– wait for a day and head up to Luang Nam Tha with another Irish girl Claire, and two scottish blokes she’s travelling with just now
– or hire a bike for a week and do the trip myself (tempting if I Knew nothing was going to go wrong!)
– bugger everything, stay here and speak to the Red Cross

I could quite easily find myself here in a few weeks deliberating, and still not quite being ready to pack my bags and move on. Despite this, I handed in my passport to get me visas, and bought my bus ticket to Phonsavan leaving tomorrow (1st Nov) – maybe on my own, or with Luc. The $175 US for a week’s bike hire was fighting to stay in my wallet – far more expensive, but would mean I would have the joys of travelling on more roads the Lonely Planet said to be careful about, and be free to go at my own pace, without bumping around for days on public buses, and be constricted by their timings. I’ll head back via Luang Prabang in a week or so to collect my passport.

Another big thing is nagging my head too. I headed to Luang Prabang in a hurry to see my sister, and overlooked a place called The Gibbon Experience, which I’ve heard great things about – three days dangling from suspended cables, staying in tree houses, while looking for wildlife. Unfortunately it’s back by the Thai border, meaning two days there and two days back, on the frickin’ boat again. I’mkeen to go!

All this is without even considering how long it will take to get down through souther Laos….I can feel a flight coming on and having to miss out this section!

As it turns out, my Myanmar companion Luc just strolled up to my while I sit on the riverbank typing this (no wifi tho!) and he is hanging around for an extra day to get his Vietnam visa…another lesson in waiting around to see what others are doing!!! It’s Phonsovan on my own tomorrow.

Luang Prabang stuff

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006

Monks on parade at 6am :

Mini Monks on parade at 6am :

Slippers on display in the night market :

On the boat to the Sae waterfall :

The view from my guesthouse over the Nam Khong river :

When I got to Luang Prabang I liked it immediately. The central part of it is compact – you can walk round it quickly in an hour. It lies at the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, at the foothills of the surrounding mountains. There are paddy fields on the other side of the river, the streets are small, clean and surrounded by lovely temples (even if you are like me and don’t go and visit them). If you want to do something a little more adventurous, there’s a plethora of travel and tour companies tempting your wallet for anything from motorbike rentals, waterfall visits, day trips, to treks, rafting, mountain biking and climbing.

When I arrived I had a massage at the Red Cross and was already tempted by their notice asking for volunteers wishing to dedicate a few days over a 2 week period to help them out with English and a couple of local projects. Later the first night I was speaking to a Canadian who runs White Elephant Tours about climbing, and before I knew it he said to me to see what I thought of the place over the next few days, and if I liked it, he would speak to me about a potential role, as he was looking for someone to help him with his projects…Vang Vieng is meant to be the outdoors place here, so if I like it here this much….!

Previously I was looking for somewhere to stop off for a few weeks to chill out, and this could well be the place. There is enough to wander around in town, you can hire bikes, and there is loads to do around if you get bored, and the night market has some beatiful handicrafts (mainly silk) without the hard sell of places like Chaing Mai, and I’m sure most of this stuff is made by the people actually selling it. Unfortunately my calendar isn’t quite as big as I would like as I have to try and do as much of Vietnam and Cambodia, as well as Laos, before mid December – I could easily kill that time just in Laos. The Red Cross thing is very tempting as it would let me have more interaction with the locals. I’ve spent days just wandering around, going to a couple of photo exhibitions that are on, and generally slowing down to the pace of the place.

Yesterday my sister, hubby and I took a small day trip through a couple of villages of the Mong Laos people. There are three main types of Laos people very basically divided into whether they live in high or middle mountain, or the cities. After my time in Sabah, it’s this stuff I really enjoy – wandering around the basic villages, interacting with the people, seeing their way of life, and hoping to walk away with some half decent photographs. Our bus was mobbed as we passed a school, and the people in the other two villages were happy to share their time with us, surely helped by the fact our guide was of Mong origin as well. From these we did a pretty uninteresting trek to the Tat Juang Si waterfall for a swim. It’s large muti tiered waterfall, 30km out of town, with a swimming area at the bottom. There’s also enclosures with a tiger and bears that are being rehabilitated.

And on the lighter side :

In the wonderful Vietnam Bar :

Getting back from the Vietnam Bar in the tuk-tuk :

Thailand To Laos, then Huay Xai to Luang Prabang

Thursday, October 26th, 2006

I had an early morning and headed from Chiang Rai on the 6am bus to Chiang Khong on the Thai borderm thinking there would be a rush for the boat, leaving between 8 and 9am. The border crossing here is so easy…. a stamp from the Thai immigration, then a 20 Baht boat across the Mekong, then you arrive at the Laos immigration….gazebo. Immigration grab your attention as you almost stroll freely into the country, you fill out a form, hand them $35 US (this differs depending on your country), then generally hang around and have a bit of banter with the immigration officers. While they hand your form into the uniformed guys, you leave your bags around, stroll up to the boat ticket office he sends you to, then saunter back in a wee while to get your passport back. When you do, you walk 20 yards up the street and get stamped into the Check In counter, boat ticket already in hand. They hand out 30 day visa automagically now, so no worries about a paltry 15 days anymore and extending it. In saying that you could easily loose a month in Laos. As I type this I’ve been inLuang Prabang for almost a week, and still never quite feel like leaving.

I’m sure you pay a little bit more for the boat this way, but it beats trying to make your own way to the jetty (2km South for the speedboat, 1km North for the slow boat).

There was a great crowd on the boat, and we scored lucky and had some space to wonder around. I’ve heard of stories when you are crammed in here, but not in our case.

I stopped for the compulsory slow boat night in Pak Beng, a tiny little town where there’s not much to do except eat, drink, and refuse all the offer of opium you get. I bumped into a great crowd in the tiny restaurant, andit turned into a pretty late night, all fired by the free whisky the Americans handed out. It was here I met my friendly Mancunian, with a past more potted that the roads in Myanmar. He made a nice habit of breaking up the conversation about China dominating the world, with such retorts as ‘Yeh, but I don’t give a f*!k, that’s hardly going to affect me selling crack on the streets in Manchester’…and to the comment about what happens when I Chinese company takes over his work : ‘Yeh, but I’ve not worked a decent day in my life mate’. Well that’s one way to put the silence on a loud American (ok, it didn’t but it was a good try).

The second day of the boat was a bit more exciting, with several card games going on, drinking games, and general chatting. I didn’t do that much though, just counting down the hours of more ‘beautiful riverside scenery’. It was beautiful, but a few hours would’ve done rather than 14.

It was this day that brought a big group together on the boat, and for the following few evening we made an assualt on Luang Prabang….