Archive for November, 2006

Cooking and cycling

Thursday, November 30th, 2006

On our second full day in Ho Chi Minh we went to organise a trip to the tunnels and one of the big temples quite a bit out of town. Instead we ended up booking a trip where you cycled through the city to the outskirts, joined a local family to help cook lunch, then went out fishing on a boat in the afternoon.

Ho Chi Minh traffic :

Cycling through the city was the best part – we headed across the mad roundabouts in the main part of the city during rush out traffic, which is mayhem. If you stop and start you’re more likely to end up roadkill, but if you move across slowly and confidently, you’re sorted. Unfortunately the rest of the tour fulfilled our doubts when booking. We met up with a local family, in their tenement house, went to the market with them (always interesting) and watched our snake head fish get battered on the head with a wooden stick (hey at least it was fresh), then went back to the apartment to cook lunch.

While lunch was cooking we ended up playing cards with the tour guides for the best part of an hour introducing them to cheat and various other games. It was quite a laugh but not really what you want to pay money on a tour for. In the afternoon we eventually left to go to some crappy restaurant place where we tried to catch fish which you can then cook. The setting was a really naff local’s restaurant with manmade pools of water, with eating platforms over the middle of them. We could hardly leave quick enough, but too late for me to make the post office to get rid of more of my gear! Not exactly the best use of $15 in Asia. I think the companies other tours of the Mekon g Delta would be quite good, they just didn’t seem to nail this one.

In the evening I spent most of the time drinking, eating, and trying desperately not to overload myself with a selection of the excellent counterfeit photocopied books….

Local kids in the park :

Lazy Day, Exciting Ride

Wednesday, November 29th, 2006

After the excitement of getting to a new place yesterday I couldn’t crash easily so decided to watch a very high quality copy of the film Inside Man until I fell asleep.
Ciara from home met me today in Ho Chi Minh City on her way back from her travels in NZ. I decided to take it easy heading to the airport and add a bit of excitment to it for once I answered ‘Yes’ to the oft repeated phrase ‘Moto Sir?’
No bags on my back for once, I needed to enjoy it. Yes I need to go to the airport. How quick can you do it?’ ‘Oh 20 minutes or less I think’.
This was more than ample time, but I said ‘Yes, fast as you can I’m in a hurry’.

What a ride! We were whizzing in and out of traffic, scooters etc like…well, like whatever weaves in and out of stuff quickly. We got there in 15 after cutting up sidestreets, across petrol stations etc.

I decided not to get a moto back – a bit harsh an introduction on your first day in Asia maybe. It was funny watching Ciara’s reaction of the hustle and bustle of Asian cities, this one being a cracking example. I realise how used I’ve got to life out here, handing out ‘advice’ here there and everywhere…. no, don’t stop when they honk, no don’t run across the road, do any of them you’ll be hit – walk across slowly and you’ll be fine (makes it sounds worse than it is, but there are just so many scooters around!).

We went to a couple of markets, but no live skinned frogs, turtles, fried cockroaches or anything at these ones so an easy intro.

Tomorrow we’re binning he tunnels and the war museums to cycle to the outskirts of a city and visit a family and have something to eat after visiting the markets, then I’ll start to head North through the country on Friday.

My world map so far – 36th country – GET IN!

Tuesday, November 28th, 2006

..but so much more to see and do – even in the ones I’ve been in!

Bangkok’s for pussies – get thee to HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon)

Tuesday, November 28th, 2006

Again, new country, what’s the fuss? I got in to Ho Chi Minh City today, was looking at the map on the way into town (in that kinda anal way outdoors people do), then the bus man said, yeh you’re hotel’s back there, but we’re stopping just up here. 5 mins later after almost ignoring the guy touting a guesthouse (he was touting mine but I was wary of that scam of having three of the same guesthouse names on the same street), he walked me to the door, and within 10 minutes of getting off, I was checked into my room, admiring the hustle and bustle of a new city.

HCMC (as I’ll now call it – saves typing) is the most bustling city I’ve been to in SE Asia so far. Bustling, busy (some may say frantic) and alive. Crossing the road – no big deal, just look at the 1 billion oncoming scooters and stride confidently (but slowly) across the road. I’ve been walking around here like I’m walking on clouds – new city, new buzz. I rapdily overcame that new ‘fear’ of entering a new country. Like Cambodia, everyone warns…’oooh, you started in Laos, you may not like Vietnam’. Everything’s here, and all withing spitting distance.

Knock off DVDs and CD’s, great arts and handicrafts, camera shops willing to open your camera to see if they can fix it, tourist tat, moto drivers wanting to sell you anything, girls wanting to do the same (although I’m oblivious to this), and young teenagers walking around with a selection of the best ‘reproduction’ books. There’s sports shops, and even an electronics emporium that would blow some of Bangkok’s best out of the window. I can’t remember seeing a couple of hundred large screen plasmas, umpteen mobile phones, cameras and video camera on the same floor before.

I sat down at a very touristy restaurant, ordered up a Vietnamese dish, then sat there delighted by the vibe, and the fantastic selection of classic tunes ringing in my ear, every track saying to me ‘oh shit, who sang that one again?’. I started speaking to the waiters, who asked about Scotland, and my thoughts on Vietnam. I wish I had a copy of Culture Shock! Vietnam when the one of the waiters said ‘You have a nice body, do you go to the gym each day?’. He was only about 20 and I wasn’t sure if this was normal behaviour….

Yes, Vietnam will be way too rushed. In seventeen days I have to fly to Bangkok. I always get the rose tinted glasses in a new big city as well, but what a buzz.

Good Morning Vietnam! (I’ve been waiting to be able to say that!). Country number 36.

Did you stay at Okay Guesthouse? (The return of the camera lens)

Monday, November 27th, 2006

So I was on a dive boat chatting to another punter I had met hours earlier as we boarded the boat, our home for two days. I was being asked which camera and lenses I have….

‘well I’ve got a 28-135mm, 70-300mm and I have a 10-22mm but I couldn’t find it yesterday when I was looking in my bag for something. I was leaving the room in Sihanoukville and was bitching to Udai when I couldn’t find it. I’m not so sure this item will turn up like the others but I’m convinced it’s not in my bags and I’ve no idea where I could have lost it or had it stolen. Last time I used it was the temples at Seam Reap. Really weird.’

‘Were you staying at the Okay Guest House in Phnom Penh?’

‘Yeh.’
‘I was there and found a lens under the bed in my…’
‘No way, that’s where I put my laptop when I went out, room 212?’
‘…room, and I handed it into reception. They seemed to think you were coming back after Sihanoukville. Yeh room 212.’
‘Jeeez, I can’t believe that, I hope they still have it, man I could kiss you, I didn’t think I’d have left it sitting behind in the temples, I just couldn’t work it out.’

‘Phew, that was lucky – how much was that worth – a couple of hundred dollars?’
‘Erm, kinda. More like $1100. Man I love you, thanks for being so honest!!!!’

‘I’ve got a Nikon, not Canon. They seemed good in there I’m sure they’ll have it.’ (I kinda used my poetic licence on this line)

After a day out of reception, I called them up on my return to land. I’m now back at the Okay Guest House. They didn’t reserve a room like I asked. They couldn’t find the lens, but asked me to ask the other guy when I got up for the bus.

I left for dinner.

‘Sir – room 212 wasn’t it. Is this it?’

What a frickin’ coincidence. You always bump into folk on this typical tourist trail, but to be on a dive boat with someone who moved into your room, in another town, who found your camera lens…..

Thanks Robin! I love you!

Diving Liveaboard – Yeeeeh!

Sunday, November 26th, 2006


Sihanoukville beach, Cambodia :

Had a great laugh on Friday in Sihanoukville, after having a bit too heavy a welcoming session on the Thursday night with the guys I met on the bus from Phnom Penh. Once the hangover cleared after a sleep on the beach, I spent a few hours with the kids selling braclets and stuff on the beach.

Others may call them hawkers, but they’re a great laugh if you just take it as part of the experience. I had a few bracelets made in front of me as he listened to Black Eyed Peas “My Humps” (his request) about 15 times, laughing and singing along to it. His mate was listening to my MP3 as well and looked quite a dude with my reflective Oakleys and headphones in.

Kid making a bracelet for me :

Kids mate with my shades, listening to my tunes :

My Cambodia flag bracelet completed (the Scottish one was too hard for him – he tried for an hour – poor bugger) :

I then decided to scrap a motorbike trip and blow a couple of hundred dollars with Dive Cambodia
doing an overnight liveaboard to the local islands. While the diving wasn’t quite up to Sipadan standards it was 5 nice dives with a night dive as well. The last three (including my night one) were the most relaxed dives I’ve had – bouyancy, control, etc spot on, being able to hover and look into any spot I wanted.

Man, it’s a hard life :

It was a great bunch on the boat as well so one of them is splitting my room costs and we’re all meeting up in an hour for beers with the instructors. Half the group were doing their PADI Open Water – on a liveaboard!!!

Some of the more photogenic dive crowd :

Tomorrow I head back to Phnom Penh reluctantly, and will have no time to explore there before I head to Ho Chi Minh the following morning.

Sunset from the boat, 4 hours from the mainland :

Sihanoukville

Thursday, November 23rd, 2006

Made it through Phnom Penh and to Sihanoukville, but will type up blogs later…. struggling to find somewhere to use my USB drive…

Bike trip around Battambang

Tuesday, November 21st, 2006

Shortly after my morning cooking class today I headed off on a moto to see Phnom Sampeu (Sahm-Bpoh). Phnom Sampeu is a temple on a hilltop 12kms from Battambang with killer views of the endless flat paddy field landscape as far as the eye can see. Unfortunately the Khmer Rouge also thought it was a killer place, albeit in a much more tragic manner as they used to drop people into the caves hoping they’d die on impact to save a bullet (but they hardly ever did), or starve them there. There are remnants of skulls and bones which is tragic and reminded me of my interesting but gruesome trips to Auschwitz. This trip is also detailed in my Adventure Cambodia book. More of this to come in Phnom Penh I guess.

I managed to get clear views of the hill by Pailin on the Thai border, although the picture below is following the main road back to Battambang.
I also got chased down the steps by a Long Tailed Macaque Monkey. Almost four months in Borneo and the closest I got to Macaques were across the river, here I could touch out and reach them (also some some near Angkor Wat).

A Macaque scratching his nuts. Or something. :

Rural Cambodia starts within kilometres of town as you immediately hit dirt roads that form the main highways – yet again I was wishing I was riding a Honda Baja myself. Again, everyone was super friendly, waving at you before you even caught sight of them, kids shouting hello and goodbye. I could have spent all day stopping to take photos.

On the way we managed to catch a local cock fight where the winner got the share of $8 bet by the locals. We left before it even came close to a winner which is probably quite as well as apparently they cut the head and suck the blood. This one wasn’t as viscious as I’ve heard about though as they sometimes have razors attached to the cock’s feet.

I made a young girl cry again though. There was a killer picture of a girl holding up her younger sister, it was ok for me to take a picture, but as soon as I got closer with my camera the younger one balled her eyes out, and I forgot my balloon trick. They’re not used to seeing many (if any) foreigners here.

We then headed to the bamboo train on an extremely twisty railtrack, and caught a superb sunset over the lush green paddy fields while being taken back 12km to Battambang

I was a bit frustrated with the camera here as I know I couldn’t do the picture justice. I now know why it takes over 11 hours to get to Phnom Penh on the train, and similar from Phnom Penh (which takes 4 hours on the bus). Locals utilise the track with makeshift ‘carriages’ that can be disassembled within a minute when you approach an oncoming carriage.

I’ve booked my bus to Phnom Penh in the morning, so it’s time for a new destination.

Sunset over rice paddies :

Wee boy, with a shot that doesn’t give the sunset justice :

Money for old cocks

Tuesday, November 21st, 2006

Me at The Smokin’ Pot Cooking School, Battambang :

Battambang has been saved! I had a nice relaxing evening eating at the hotel and watching Crash in my room (great film). Although it probably sounds a bit sad if you read this sitting at home, but it was a great comfort as it’s only the second film I’ve watched since June, and the first one was at Raleigh fieldbase, and was crap.

I went cooking this morning and out with a moto guide this afternoon. I had a great cooking class today – it was similar to a Thai class last year, but this time I went to the market, which was a real eye opener. All kinds of things were for sale – insects, bettle nuts, the staple ingredients, frogs, live fish, snake type fish, live (and cooked) turtles, a cow’s cock (described to us as a “cow’s snake, if you know what I mean”) and an extremely varied selection of fruit. The guy from The Smokin’ Pot restaurant was great at explaining stuff, even the fruit which weren’t part of the course. We took quite a while going through the market as it was a larger than usual class.

The market should be visited on the first day of training for a Health and Safety Executive graduate trainee. Fish were being cut up in front of you, they were jumping out their bowls, fish heads were all over the place, and there was a lot of marinated meat ‘that was good for up to 7 months’. A couple in the group even saw a skinned frog, still gasping on for its last breaths. When the market seller saw their surprise, she apparently gave it a good thud over the head.

Fish anyone?

Who could refuse buying someone from this guy?

We started off with a traditional Khmer Chicken Amok Curry, then a beef stir fry, and a sweet fish soup. Some of the group then tried their first Durian fruit, and I got stuck into a ‘custard apple’ and ‘milk fruit’ (see picture below, left and right respectively).
Market trading :

A “Cow’s Snake” ;-> :

Shortly after I headed off on a moto to see Phnom Sampeu (Sahm-Bpoh) but I’ll stick that in another post with pictures.

Phnom Penh

Tuesday, November 21st, 2006

I arrived in Phnom Penh today after another unexpected evening.

I went out around 10pm to try and find some decent food after some internet time. About 11.30pm two dutch guys asked if I wanted to join them as they sauntered in a bit boozy. I had planned on a very quiet one but instead ended up having a few beers with them, then it dwindled to two of us as one headed back. There was a screech of cars coming round the bend, which skidded to a halt across the road. Everyone fell over themselves to open the door, included the local down and out lookalike who just asked us for cigarettes and a squaff of beer. We then spent the next half out wondering who these guys were, but were left with the mystery. We thought it may be a high up military guy or politician or mafia, but the Dutch had ended up drinking with a military dude the night before and taken to a karaoke bar (he even pulled out the guys cellphone and address which was some military arms unit). I was offered a potential lift to Phnom Penh with them and the dude but they were unsure whether to accept it or not yet. We headed back to the hotel to find his mate participating in his own personal holiday adventure of eating as many of the weird local ‘delicacies’ as he could – he was chomping on a ‘pregnant egg’ (cooked egg with bits of chick inside). I refused. I also refused the roasted ant on offer.

Anyway, I ended up on the bus and was chatting to a local getting some good insight into the country. After a few hours though I needed a rest from informing people again that yes, Scottish people spoke English, trying to explain the UK, and my own worst enemy I even tried to explain the role of the Scottish Parliament to him… I also ran out of listing of price of property, oranges, potatoes, rice, cars, cigarettes, alcohol etc to demonstrate to him that yes, we had a good quality of life, but not necessarily any happier than them, and n, we weren’t all millionaires despite our holidays. I pretended to go to sleep.

My Phnom Penh reception was as expected. Being one of only two westerners on the bus, the enslaught of local hotel touts and tuk tuk drivers even started knocking on my window before I even considered picking up my water bottle. As I embarked the bus I felt like what I imagined a fed up rock star would, pushing my way through them all to get to my bag on the bus. From the crowd I heard a lone voice, slightly clearer than the rest, despite him also holding up the compulsory laminated A4 hotel card :

“Sir, I can see you want to go somewhere specific. How about I take you on my tuk-tuk for $1 wherever you want to go, and you can have a look at your book once you get a seat?”.

I had a quick flashback to my old travelling buddy Jenny’s excellent advice : “When we used to arrive somewhere, we usually went for a beer before we looked for accommodation so we could chill out a bit”, but there was no contest.

“I’ll be there in a second.”

Within 90 minutes I was checked in to a pretty naff room (but I can never be arsed looking around as really you’re hardly ever in it), and on my way to S-21, the old Khmer Rouge prison. To be honest you could never describe these as good must see sights, however it wasn’t nearly as haunting as Auschwitz, but there were several chilling stories there too. I struggled to keep awake during the documentary as my lack of sleep and the overheated room with overstrained air-con made me loose another two litres in sweat.

Tomorrow I’m off to the Killing Fields, market, and to fight my guilty conscience of a strong desire to help out some corrupt soldiers and shooting a big gun on a firing range….