Wandering Scotsman

I got up to go to Hiroshima this morning but decided to head to Nara for the day instead, and take the train over late afternoon.

(Picture : Nara tourism in ‘low’ season)   Again I was surround by schoolkids so I just had a pleasant walk around some temples and shrines but never went inside any of them.  Nara Park was pretty cool though – right in the small city, but full of Shika (I don’t know how you spell this) – pretty much Deer if you are British.  They are so used to tourists (over?)feeding them that they just mingle around right next to you.

I had passed so many of these prayer block in shrines that I decided it was my turn to leave them.  I’m really bad at thinking up instant wishes though so this one was a bit corny!

(Picture : Sin-Osaka station taxi rank!)

I caught the train to Kyoto (faster than heading back to Osaka) to get the Shinkansen.  As I was writing up some travel scribbles I had a flashback that somehow I never had my USB drive I have been using to email.  A quick check and I reckon I left it in the PC at the capsule hotel.  I hopped off the train at the next stop, immediately caugh one heading back (erm, assuming it was the right one), and found out the JR trains to Osaka had stopped running – I’m guessing something happened as it was still early.  I called the place and they reckon they never saw it.  He spoke good English so I decided to cut my losses and head back to Kyoto, loosing 2 hours in the process.

A quick Bento box for my on train dinner and before I knew it was transported to Hiroshima on the Shinkansen.

So tomorrow it’s the Peace Park, the A-Bomb dome and if I get lucky I’ll manage to pop over to an island before heading to Beppu in a couple of days.

After the aquarium I checked into my capsule hotel at Asahi Plaza Shinsaidbashi.  But more of that later.

I was going to have an early night but headed out to explore the nightlife area of Osaka.  Apart from being seduced by an outdoors shop after popping in for a brolly, I wandered around the eating, drinking and shopping area.  As the sun set it all became pretty overwhelming.  So much going on, so much noise from people, some touts, pachinco parlours and so many eating and drinking joints.  It was the first time I’ve felt like that in Japan so far.

All I wanted was a nice little busy yakitori bar.  There were hundreds.  I got fed up looking for one and walking around the same streets to opted for some Takoyaki – octopus balls.  They like balls of dough (kind of) with bits of octopus inside them, along with some vegetables or something.  I don’t really agree with eating them as I’m convinced Japan is trashing the world’s population of octopus!  I then found a quiet bar and sat and read an English language freebie magazine, Seek Japan.

So, on to the capsule hotel.  A very bizarre thing, but a very Japanese thing.  The one I went to was bang in the centre of Ameri-mura, or America-mura which is a shopping (and eating/drinking area) where all the shops have an American (or perceived American!) vibe to them.  I’ll upload a small slideshow with some shopfronts.  Quite funny walking around there and just people watching.  I’d defintely recommend this place as a good one to try out the capsule hotel experience though as it’s in a cracking area.  I went to the capsule hotel, changed into the robe I was given, then headed down for a Japanese style shower, hot bath (like a hot tub type thing) and a sauna.  I then retired to my capsule and almost read the rest of my book.  I had a radio and a television, complete with pay per view porn…if I wanted it!

(Picture : The capsule ‘command centre’ and the TV)

My book was so gripping (Dan Brown – ‘Angels and Demons’) I ended up coming out of my capsule (but that was because of the snorers) and having a beer to knock me out.  2am.

Yesterday I went to Osaka Aquarium which has one of the largest tanks in the world.  The had a frickin’ whale shark and manta ray in there!!!!!  And loads more.  Very diferent from the Sydney Aquarium, which I think I preferred, but very good to see all the things.  I wish I had brought along my earplugs though as there were about 2 billion Japanese miniature schoolkids in there at the same time screaming away (at least it sounded like 2 billion, all wearing bright pink or bright blue, or donning some coloured cap).

They also had king size crabs which looked like mutants.  The appeared to be almost the same size as me (no kidding) and they have pressurised the tank to simulate the depths they usually live at.

One good thing about the aquarium was that I realised how much I have managed to see underwater this year.  I was even lucky enough to see an eagle ray in the flesh at the Poor Knights….and the manta was far smaller than the ones I dived with 🙂 ….and the whale shark was a lot smaller than the one I could have snorkelled with if I didn’t turn back to the boat thinking it had left the area (AARRGGG!)

Once again I’m happy to be travelling outside the main tourism season as it’s busy enough at some places at the moment.  I’m sure the cherry blossoms make some of the places amazing, but it must be absolutely mobbed!

In regards to outdoors shops.

Anyway, I’m sending this from my first night in a capsule hotel. I’ve just been wondering around the nightlife area of Osaka. I’ve had my first sensory overload experience since arriving in Japan. Neon lights everywhere, bars and restaurants, Japanese youths pretending they are american homies, so many restaurants I couldn’t decide…..so I’m about to go an change into my robes, have a shower/bath and retire to my capsule after 6 octopus balls and 2 beers.
I need to escape the cities here.
I was so not on the ball when I left rainy Kyoto that I booked my train tickets to Beppu tomorrow forgetting that I was going to Hiroshima for two nights (at the moment) en route. But with a Japan Rail pass I don’ have to care – I’ll just hop on the Shinkansen to Hiroshima in the morning instead.

I started typing this to talk about the food and experiences I’d miss when I got back, things I’d like when I get back, and things I’d like to be able to buy back in Scotland.  I kindof got carried away in a ‘perfect day’ scenario made up of different things.  It’s raining outside and I should be heading to Nara…..I think I may need to put more work into this…

• For breakfast I’d have several warm Aberdeen rowies with butter and jam, and maybe one with syrup just to push the boat out
• …washed down with a nice strong Laos coffee with sweetened condensed milk
• I’d then head out for breakfast for $2, maybe munching on a couple of feijoas on the way out the door.
• …then decide whether I was going to the glacier or the beach for the day
• On the way there I’d pop in and find some knock off software and music I didn’t really need but bought anyway….then I’d stop off at the handicraft shop.
• On the way I’d stop and take some photos of some really interesting people and laugh at the kids waving and looking at me strangely (hey maybe this is realistic ;-> ), while drawing a face on a balloon and handing it to them, communicating using some mangled form of sign language
• The locals passing me would honk their horn and say hello and wish me a good day despite not knowing me
• I’d check out the state of some online/investment/some kindof business that I magically started to see how my cash was doing
• After a great day I’ll retire to a funky little yakitori bar overlooking the loch for some munchies, while drinking some Beer Lao, washing it down with a warm sake.  Of course I’d be sitting outside listening to some funky tunes I’ve never heard before while chatting to some really cool new people sitting at the table next to me.
• On the way home I’d pick up a hooker and fall asleep.
  (KIDDING!)
• Before crashing out I’d sit out on my balcony overlooking the sea, with the mountains in the background, watching for shooting stars
• When I woke up I’d have a stroll through the fresh food market picking out some stuff for a nice breakfast.
• Then go offroading in my 4×4 to reach a mountain bike trail.
• Of course the camping stuff was in the car so tonight is at a cool wee camping spot in the @rse end of nowhere at the side of a loch (lake for international readers!)….with some cheese and wine.
• After heading back and doing a little bit of work (god knows what, but its relaxed and enjoyable), I’ll head out for a dive in the afternoon.

Yes, there may well be another version of this when I’ve had a proper think about it.

So, if you’ve wandered what I’m blethering on about, here’s the yakitoi place I went to this evening…..  a few dishes, a couple of beers, and a small hot sake.  Hmmm hmmm mmmmmm

Yakitori Sukiyanen by Kyoto Tower :

Hasami yakitori : Chicken and shallots

Enoki Bacon – Japanese mushrooms with erm…. you guessed it – bacon.

Cooking it up.

And the friendly crowd, but the guy who started speaking to me as I entered had to leave.

If you go to Kyoto, just accept what everyone says and don’t faff around like me.  Hire a bike.  It really is the best way to see the city.  I spent a few days getting the bus around which was an easy way to get oriented but it takes longer to get around many places, and one a bike you can stop wherever and whenever you want and you feel a lot better for it.

Initially the maps may make Kyoto seem a huge city and it does appear like that at first (especially if you look at the multiple maps in ‘The Book’ (Lonely Planet)).

Today I was meant to head to Nara, but I had to go souvenir shopping and still had to see the Nishiki food market so that was my mission.  It was great, and I was great at it.  Which maybe isn’t such a good thing.  The food market was interesting – lots of things I didn’t recognise, and lots I did but have only seen in Japan!  I ended up leaving there and having a nepalese curry at the Yak and Yeti for a late breakfast / lunch.  I had a quick wander around the downtown shopping area and saw a really cool sake set, which was not as cool a price as I was originally going to spend…but I bought it anyway.  My spending habits seem to be going the other way nearer the end of my trip spending way more for some form of therapy about going home.

(Picture : Some £34 tomatoes..erm I assume they are tomatoes)

I eyed up a really cool Patagonia lightweight rucksack (like I need another one) then decided not to buy it.  Then I headed to the handicraft shop and spent more than that on not very much, and also decided to ship it home which wasn’t cheap but seemed far less hassle.  So sushi candles (apparently the No.1 souvenir winner!), tea set, and sumo ornaments are on their way back mum!

I did dare myself and entered another outdoors shop but walked out empty handed after standing gawping at a Japanese trekking DVD fora  while.

I had to head to another temple after that, but on my way home and more side street exploration I found some hollowed out bamboo to be used as vases……something I was determined to craft myself in Borneo but never got the chance……so in they went to my rucksack.

Hopefully…….that’s all my shopping done.

Tomorrow I’ll be heading to Osaka and maybe a whistle stop side trip to Nara.

I’m really sorry but I couldn’t get it in your size.  It seems your reputation and following has spread worldwide.  Check out the t-shirt I saw at a store in Kyoto today….

Even I would’ve splashed the cash for this for you, but it would have been way too small.  I was gutted.  I was browsing through some old style t-shirts in a shop and had to laugh when I saw this one.  Pure class.