Archive for the ‘Mongolia’ Category

Back from the Gobi, onto China

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

DCRAIG_20100618_435_web We got back from a 10 day tour to the Gobi desert yesterday and have a catch up day in Ulanbataar…but I doubt I’ll have time to put up any pics just now as I have loads downloaded last night, and we are leaving to Beijing in China at 0715 in the morning!

Anyway, we’ve seen the Gobi desert and hiked to the top of 300m sand dunes for sunset….and spent way too much time in a Russian 4×4 Forgon van.  They’re superb vans and can drive over almost anything but unfortunately this trip just has way too much time spent in the van due to the distances involved.  We covered about 2000km in the 10 days but luckily we were with a really nice small group of folk – 2 English and one Japanese girl, and we kept bumping into another group of mixed Euros and Aussies.

DCRAIG_20100617_230_web So we can definitely say we’ve seen the wide open landscapes of Mongolia.  At times we were driving along and couldn’t see anything in all directions – not a hill, mound, car or dwelling – just flat ground with a gravelly sandy surface and some green foliage creeping through.  It really reminded me of parts of the Australian Outback at times.  With the distances it often meant we’d spend up to 6 hours in the van, see a sight for 30 minutes then retire to a ger camp for the evening, which sometimes was just a few gers with nothing else around it.

DCRAIG_20100619_521_web We did see a few sights though – the ‘flaming cliffs’, an Ice Gorge where there’s ice in a ……you’ve guess it, a gorge, when nothing else around it has any traces of snow, the highest dunes in the Gobi, the wilderness, some wildlife like cranes, gazelle and loads of camels and horses.  We spent a couple of hours riding camels by the dunes and they were the most stinking animals I’ve ever laid eyes on.  When we started heading back north to UB we stopped in greener areas which we really wished we could have spent another day or two exploring.  We also saw the largest waterfall (at the moment) in Mongolia…which is pretty hard to believe as it was only 20m but very nice….and could have had some cracking rock climbing around it if the rock wasn’t so loose.  We managed to stop off in some hot springs but they ended up being inside and in some dingy wee pools but hey ho.

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I also managed to buy some fermented mares milk and fresh yoghurt on the last day.  The milk was so ‘fizzy’ that when I took it out the van and opened it for the others it almost exploded like a heavily shaken bottle of coke.

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Unfortunately our guide wasn’t quite as talkative as we hoped so we never got the best explanation of things on the road.  We managed to acquire a pretty unique souvenir of a hand made silk type bag containing ten sheep’s ankle bones….yes that’s right, it’s a traditional game over here where you throw them and see what matches up.

The Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) playing cards from back home have been aired as we spent a couple of nights in the ger camps playing…..Shithead…..for those that dont know it it’s a cracking card game when in a group.

We wish we had a few more days in Mongolia – I’d love to head north to the lakes (if it wasn’t so far) or spend a few days in a national park outside UB but we had to book our train to China.

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We’re off to Beijing tomorrow and due to only having 2.5-3 weeks in China we’re going to keep it to a manageable trip with 4-5 nights in Beijing, a couple of nights in Xi’an to see the Terracotta Warriors, then head down to Yangshou to touristville for a week of chilling out and doing some activities.  This is where we thought about trying to get a job earlier in the year, but it all fell through.  Unfortunately my friend’s have moved on from there now so won’t be around.  We’ll finish China up with several nights in Hong Kong, and maybe a night of splurging in Macau (although we’ve been managing to burn through money quicker than we hoped already unfortunately!!!).

NZ is coming around a bit too soon for us…we’ll be there in under  a month! Eeeek!

Olgii, Mongolia

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

We’re now in Olgi at the far west of Mongolia. Most folk get here with a flight from Ulanbataar in the east but we flew from Kazakhstan.
It’s got a nice feel around here for some reason, despite it being like the wild west. Big buzzards (or some massive bird like that) hover over the market, hills crop up all around, and there’s not many places to eat at all.
The airport landing strip is just dirt with no tarmac, and the roads that lead out of town are just two tyre tracks heading over the landscape. Most cars are 4x4s and now I’ve got a soft spot for dodgy old Russian jeeps and vans.
We met a German and English lads last night who had just returned from a big trek. We had went out for a drink in a ‘secret garden’ spot….and had the friendliest looking chancer to date. I had a beer and Ciara a bottle of wine (which she hated) which in total cost about $6. The smiley friendly young local lass came over when we sat down and then attempted to charge us 10000 Tugrik (about $6.50) each to sit down and drink it – that was like ten times the price of my beer. We laughed and then just walked away a returned our drink to the hotel. We returned with the lads (one of whom can speak quite fluent Mongolia as he worked in UB)….she then just tried to ask me for 2000 for both of us so I called the guy over who asked why she had asked for 10000 before…said it was a mistake (it was very clear it was totally understood as she had written ‘per person’ in English in our ‘negotiating’ notebook)….and we just walked away, sat down and drank our drinks. Cheeky bugger. Couldn’t believe it.
Anyway, we unexpectedly got picked up at the airport yesterday by the tour company I had been emailing which was a really pleasand surprise. The airport’s just a few k’s from the town centre. We went to their office and spoke about the tour and it’s all sorted from Sunday to Friday. We’ll be SW of Olgii, dropped off about 180km away at one of the big lakes, then walk with our guide for 4 days away from all civilisation, getting picked up at another lake. The first night we’re staying with an Eagle Hunter and his family, then it will be camping….although our main bag, tents and food will be carried by a pack camel and horseman so we’re hoping it’s going to be quite easy going…although it’s 5-6hrs walking each day.
After that we’re thinking of getting the public bus to Ulanbataar which takes about 3 days….and I reckon about 99% of that will be on dirt roads…I’m sure we may live to regret it but it’ll be one of those travel experiences we’ll look back at afterwards I hope….and it’s $250 cheaper than flying! We may stop on the way for a night…otherwise it will just be food stops and maybe the odd few hours for a kip.
1600km for $50 is pretty good value though!
After that we’ll be in Ulanataar around next Tuesday and hopefully on a tour the day after that.

Wild West

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

We’ve got our tickets now for Olgii and off wandering around Almaty today – the most modern and expensive city so far. Jammed streets full of 4x4s and modern shopping centres…no wonder the tourism board got a bit pissed about the Borat thing!
We’re still waiting on confirmation about our tour – as always they never seem to answer your direct questions or read your email fully, and assume you are always there to pick up their emails.
If this goes quiet for a bit we’ll be wandering around the wild west of Mongolia.