Archive for July, 2010

Auckland Update – Gluten Free City

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

We’ve been in Auckland for a few days now and nothing much to report.  We’ve been looking at job sites (well, ahem, some more than others, and I’m not to be praised on that front), but we have set up bank accounts, applied for tax numbers, looked at housesits, help exchanges, transferred a bunch of cash to NZ, and just had a wee look at cars and vans for sale.  We’ve seen a really nice Mazda Bongo like the van we’ve left at home but it’s a bit outside what we wanted to pay for a van but it is oh so tempting……we wish we could instantly ship ours over here now.

But there is one thing that cheers one of us up no end – the constant selection of gluten free goodies in Auckland, so here’s a selection :

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Yes, from sausages to crisps, loafs to bagels and sauces it’s all here in the delis and supermarkets….even some menus such as the curry takeaway above and a mexican place have ‘all our courses are gluten free’ – it’s like a dream come true for some after navigating through the ‘Stans then ‘soya and oyster sauce in everything’ China….and of course it makes my life easier too ;-)  Ruth – there may be some inspiring ideas for us to drop you for Mophia’s Gluten Free Bakery – Ireland’s best Gluten Free Bakery. 😉

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But apart from dropping a couple of hundred dollars every few days for accommodation which is starting to kill us, the rain has been quite regular as well : Like proper Asian torrential style rain – just that it’s cold too!

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, we’ve seen some cool help exchange places (work for free accommodation) that we’re going to maybe follow up for the future.  We’d like to do one just now but it doesn’t bring the money in – just stops us spending it.  My head doesn’t seem to be getting in the right place for IT jobs although I saw a cracking travel related one (but it was permie)…but cash is calling.

Meanwhile we’ve moved to a more chilled hostel in one of the central Auckland suburbs to get away from the massive central one.  It’s the same price, but there’s free wifi which in theory frees us up a bit more during the day, rather than heading to the office of the visa company to use theirs…..we had great plans to go indoor climbing and go for a wander today but the rain put stop to some of that (the wander).  I’ve signed up for an Auckland photwalk that I hope to go to tomorrow (even though we had kindof erm planned to take the boat across the bay! – oops).

And that’s about it!  More soon….

Auckland

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010

We landed in Auckland yesterday and immediately got hit with the realities of trying to leave behind free minded travel, free wifi, cheap food and drinks…..and hitting a western country that has similar prices!
Not much has seemed to change much since I was here 4 years ago – internet still isn’t free in many places, it’s 1/3rd more expensive than it was back then  (£1.75 for a small bottle of coke in the 7-11!), and there’s not a huge selection of some stuff when you go looking.

But we did hit happy hour for a couple, had a great mexican where most things were gluten free, we got Ciara a gluten free cookie in a normal corner shop, and I’ve checked in at the organisation I got my visa through. 
Today’s mission is to apply for bank accounts, tax numbers and try to stay upbeat!  My sleep wasn’t the best last night as the reality hit us (oh it’s such a hard life eh!).

Anyway, off to go for a wander and try to decide on the real jobs versus fruit picking etc options! I’m desperate to get a car to get us mobile so we can drive just outside the city and experience some of the other stuff but that’ll come with time.

Wish us luck……..

Bye Bye Asia :-(

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

Well it’s fair to say we had an uber lazy today, enjoying the comforts of a decent room and some space to relax.

We headed for the Venetian casino last night which is the largest in the world.  It’s very similar to the one in Vegas, complete with indoor gondola rides to make you think (ahem) you’re in Venice.  We must have walked about 3km before returning to the first restaurant for an Asian buffet.

The gaming tables were a disappointment though.  I’ve been on the tables (albeit baby ones!) in Vegas and we hunted around last night for ‘beginners’ tables but there were none : the minimum bet was 200 Hong Kong Dollars for Blackjack!!  That’s £20!  It was even a pain in the neck playing the 10c slot machines as we found out it was all based on Hong Kong Dollars, and despite being 10c machines, you had to put in $20 notes for 20 games at a time.  How you can’t use Macau money I don’t know.  We did a couple of bar owners in Yangshou a favour by exchanging Chinese Yuan for Macau MOP for the value of £50 – they had been carrying it for almost a year, and now we understand how….I just hope we remember to change it in the morning!

So we left the casinos after spending the grand sum of £2 betting and we got back the equivalent of 80p.  Due to me not knowing how to work the machines I cashed it in, and we got a printed receipt to cash it in.  After all the hassles of trying to find something to play we decided we’d keep it as a souvenir instead.

We left in the torrential rain and lightning storm and got a taxi home.

We’ve hardly ventured out today.  We think our bodies realise that Phase 1 is coming to an end and they are winding down big style so we are feeling pretty exhausted. We saw what we wanted to see of Macau yesterday.  We had a room upgrade on check-in yesterday meaning we could get free nibbles, soft drinks, beer and wine between 2.30pm and 8pm and we only had one drink each yesterday and weren’t in the mood for it today really…(well I may squeeze in some wine….).

Tomorrow it’s off on the TurboJet ferry from Macau to Hong Kong Airport then a flight to Auckland via Singapore.  The ferry to Macau was so easy – we turned up 15 mins before departure, bought our ticket, cleared immigration and were on the boat in 12 minutes.

Of course as soon as flights are added in to the picture it all gets complicated : Shuttle Bus at 9.05, check-in for Ferry by 9.30 for 10.30 departure, 1hr to airport, and we don’t fly until 1330.  We’ve a few hours in Singapore so we hope to head for a swim at the airport and before we know it, we’ll be wrapping up in a baltic Auckland.

And no, we’re still not ready for it.  Every time I leave Asia it all seems strangely boring to go to an English speaking country but hey ho…..wish us all the best!  There are two things we’re looking forward to though :

Ciara being able to read the ingredients and being able to munch into delicious NZ gluten free bread, and me being able to buy some feijoa fruit and juice (after all that I bet you I don’t like it anymore).

Leaving Hong Kong – Macau Bound

Friday, July 16th, 2010

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We’ve loved Hong Kong – it’s a mad crazy busy but cool place.  No inch of space is wasted, but one of the best things is it’s really easy and quick to get around downtown as it’s so compact, yet you can escape to the beach or another island quite easily as well…..so that’s what we did today.  We went to Shek O after a friend’s (and local resident) recommendation, which is a small surfers type town with a nice beach.  Its wasn’t the cleanest beach but ok considering the location.  We had our time there interrupted by the occasional intense rain shower but it never mattered when we were in the water.

IMG_6538_web As you can see the Hurricane that is off Southern China has caused the early warning typhoon signals to be raised around Hong Kong but it doesn’t worry us unless it changes direction but we’re sure it’s not going to affect the boat back to the airport on Monday from Macau.

We’ve seen quite a lot of HK in our relatively short time – enough to really like it, but you’d have to have money to live here and a pretty decent job.  There’s shops in every inch of the city, and more shopping malls you can visit in a lifetime.  Admittedly many of them are of no interest to us, but there is an amazing choice of most things, and FAR more than you’d ever get back in the UK – from clothes, laptops, gizmos and everything else.

What’s good about HK is that it easy to escape, and as well as all the flash it’s quite easy to still get that sense of Asia with some backstreet stalls and markets.

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But alas our time has come to and end in Hong Kong.  We’re getting the ferry for an hour to Macau tomorrow and living it up in a 5 star hotel next to the old town (although I doubt we’ll be eating there!).  Hopefully we’ll see some of the old town tomorrow, some of madness of the casinos at night, then chill out on the rooftop pool on Sunday before our Monday flight to New Zealand.

NZ has come round way too early for us and we’re far from ready for it.  We can’t decide what to do, where to live, but at 10am Wednesday morning I’ll be in a wee session finding out about bank accounts and tax numbers!  Eeek!  Never mind the 35c to 3c!  In just over two week’s time I’m spending a birthday weekend skiing with my Kiwi friend’s…..

Hong Kong

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010

I’ve updated this post with the picture below from the second night in Hong Kong – viewing the sunset from the top of Victoria Peak.

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We arrived in Hong Kong after a 10 hour sleeper bus (pictures soon).  The bus was superb with three rows of 2 beds lengthways down the bus.  Unfortunately the roads weren’t super smooth so the sleeping wasn’t the best.

We had an easy border crossing, but it’s a bit long winded and you can tell it’s a border crossing that’s a bit different from normal as it’s like walking through an old shopping mall by the time you reach the immigration etc.  But from there it was very easy to get to our hostel – one metro trip, and 100m down the road.

We’ve only been in Hong Kong for about 15 hours but we already love parts of it.  That’ll be mainly the shopping and we’ve only been to one mall.  It really makes me realise how little choice the UK has for stuff – a shockingly small amount.  So far we’ve virtually spent a fortune on Patagonia gear, Columbia Gear, Quicksilver……loads of impressive camera shops (selling a big lens for way too much less than I bought it for in the UK), computer shops, there’s iPhone 4’s for sale (legit ones!), every available camera lens in stock (and that’s just the small shops on the main drag), notebooks so small you could almost fit them in your pocket, and thousands of bars and eating places.

The only real activity we did today though was eat (two good meals after nothing much since 8pm last night), and see the Symphony of Lights which is a light show performed on the Hong Kong skyline.  Many of the major buildings switch on and off lights in some kind of synchronization so it’s almost like there’ are tens of thousands of synchronized office workers at 8pm each night having a laugh (although I’m sure it’s automated!).

That’s all for now though.  Time to go to sleep in our shoebox (actually it’s not that bad – there’s loads around us as soon as we leave the entrance, and we’re two minutes from locals eating places, and 5 minutes from the waterfront).  Hong Kong certainly isn’t nearly as cheap as mainland China though!  It could be an expensive week…

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I never managed to post this blog entry last night so we’ve been out and about today just wandering around….erm some IT malls (but I’ve kept walking), and we’ve been up The Peak Tram to the highest point on Hong Kong Island.  We lingered around there for quite some time before, during and after sunset so I’ll update this post soon with some pictures taken from the other side (the top right of the hill in the picture above).  We also spent some more cash on food today – our most expensive meal yet at almost £30 for two….and it was only burgers….but it was at the summit of the peak.

PS: Before you say we’re being tight we are eating out all the time and normal meal in China was expensive if it was £8 for two!  That’t the price of a cheap lunch here.

Donate to Support our…erm, blog

Saturday, July 10th, 2010

Just as a bit of chance I’ve added a ‘Donate’ button the right hand side of the blog…..if anyone wants to try it…erm, just to see if it works   ;-)   …..I’m sure we’d be delighted to have a coffee from you in NZ….or a night in a 5 star hotel….some rafting, skiiing…..car deposit……  I saw a lovely 4×4 Mitsibushi Delica van waiting to be imported from Japan…….  (Mitsibushi Delica’s on Trademe)

Yangshou, China

Saturday, July 10th, 2010

Yangshou Panorama from Showbiz Inn Rooftop Bar

Panorama from our hostel’s rooftop bar terrace :-)   (Excuse the quality but I’m in a rush and we’re about to head up there for our last drink!)

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Well we’ve had a bloody busy week in Yangshou in China.  This was the place we picked to chill out in for a week, largely because it’s a very touristy area (which has it’s downsides as well), but there’s loads of activities to do, so we’ve been doing a load of them.  Although we stayed here to chill out a bit, it was mostly to stay in one spot for a while….one of my good friends also worked here for 18 months but unfortunately we missed her by a couple of months.

This week we’ve done stuff every day apart from today – a cooking lesson, some river drifting (superb!), cycling, bamboo rafting, climbing and swimming.  The area is surrounded by limestone karts – very like Krabi in Thailand, Vang Vieng in Laos, and Halong Bay in Vietnam.  The climbing is outstanding but we’ve only managed to have half a day of it.

DCRAIG_20100705_097_web We arrived here after spending one brief night in Guilin, and took the boat down the river for a few hours. This was the first (and last) tour in China we’ve been on  – including the full flag holding up front from the tour leader – very cringy…..but the boat trip was stunning.

It’s far hotter here than Beijing.  You cant move a finger without loosing about 3 litres in sweat….it’s crazy hot and humid.  So much so that we’re both getting a bit of a cold from the air con in our room.

So we had a cooking lesson where we cooked dumplings and other more tasty dishes.  I won’t say too much about this as I’m way behind on my blog…but it was great.

Cycling :

We then went cycling alongside the smaller river outside of Yangshou.  This was pretty amazing as well as the road quickly turned into a dirt track, then before we know it we were cycling through rice paddy fields in absolutely amazing scenery.  We ended up at Dragon (or Yulong) Bridge a couple of hours later and went for a swim, before negotiating for a bamboo raft to take us back down river.

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River Drifting :

We spent the next morning river drifting at Longjin River Drifting.  This was superb and a great laugh.  Basically I think it’s an outflow of a local dam but it’s really narrow and when you drive up on the bus and look down you think ‘No bloody way could we go down that….’.  You sit there with 70 odd other mini inflatable rafts then you wait for the start.  Straight away you’re into a 13m drop off down a narrow chute, and you drift down with a few similar drops for 50 minutes.  I’m sure you wouldn’t be allowed to do this in the UK but it’s not that dangerous and we bought a couple of classy photos – see below.  We were so tempted to do this again – it was 50 minutes of pure fun.

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Climbing :

If you have any interest in climbing and you’re here, you just have to climb around Yangshou.  Along with Krabi in Thailand it’s one of Asia’s biggest and most respected climbing areas.  Unfortunately we were here in mid summer and we were sweating like crazy, but the climbing was superb. We managed to cool down after the climbing by walking for 50m and going for a swim.  I think I felt drier in the water as I had been sweating so much (when I sat up from the rocks after watching people it looked like I wet myself!).  I wish it was cooler and we had longer here (this is a much repeated phrase this week!!).

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Lightshow :

We had a bit of culture and went to a lightshow which wasn’t quite what we expected but it was amazing in it’s own way.  It was the guy who created the opening ceremony for the Beijing Olympics and he created some kind of musical set on the water in Yangshou, but also lit up amazingly well using the scenery.  It’s not really our thing but you have to be a bit impressed none the less.

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Yangshou :

Yangshou itself is a very touristy town – as commercial as some of the South East Asia tourist hotspots, but maybe a but more peaceful in some ways.  There’s not much street food, but there are some great locals restaurants where you can get a claypot rice dish which is amazing, for two, with beer for less than £4…..but there’s also trashy pubs with pole dancers which we’ve avoided.  Our hostel has a roof terrace bar with absolutely stunning views over the river and the limestone karsts – there’s about 70,000 karts in the area!

We’ve been approached a few times by offers of volunteering or temporary English teaching staff and we’ve been getting quite disappointed about our travel deadlines to fly out of Hong Kong to hit New Zealand – we’d love to spend way longer here and I’ve often talked about if we could we’d have done conversational English classes just to get by for longer.

I’m sure there’s loads more I could write about this place but I’m way behind blogging, and I’ve not written anything in my travel notes since arriving in China as we’ve been non-stop, but it’s really felt like a holiday after Central Asia. Despite this it’s made us really appreciate the trials and difficulties of travelling there as it’s just a completely different experience.

The reality of hitting NZ is a bit too much for us though as we don’t want to leave Asia (I say this every time I have to leave Asia!!  It’s definitely one of my favourite areas which is good as it’s massive!).  We’re meeting my really good friend from Wellington at the end of the month to have my birthday on the snow slopes of NZ which will be a big culture and temperature shock.

Tomorrow (Sunday) we’re getting the sleeper bus to Hong Kong overnight.  We have 5 nights there, then 2 nights in a 5 star (but cheap) hotel in Macau for a bit of Vegas type fun, but yet in a traditional Portugese (well, now Chinese) setting.  We reluctantly didn’t book a better hotel in Hong Kong due to cash but we’ve regretted it since as relatively speaking it wasn’t too much more money.

Better sign out – it’s off to the roof top bar for our last evening of drinks in Yangshou 🙁

Fiona – this ones for you – the both of us sitting in the train reading up on things : You’ll probably recognise the books!

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Great Wall, Beijing then Xi’an for the warriors

Saturday, July 3rd, 2010

On our last full day in Beijing we went to the great wall and Ciara finally managed to walk along a section, a few months later than initially planned.  We reluctantly went on a tour to do this as some sections were closed and we were getting confusing information from forums, the tourist information and the tour companies on which sections were actually open, so we opted for a hostel tour from Simitai to Jinshaling.  I think the walk was a bit shorter than normal but I’ve never sweated so much in my life.  We never found it particularly hard as it only took us just over a couple of hours so I don’t think it was 10km as advertised.

Some people may find this section of walk a bit fearsome if they are scared of heights or not used to walking – there are a couple of rough sections in it, and some very steep steps that could be easy to make a simple mistake on.

The visibility was slightly better than we expected but it was still affected by the typical Chinese smoggy haze that seems to plague everywhere we’ve seen so far.

We then took the overnight train to Xi’an which was superb – air conditioned, departure at 9.36 just in time for a game of cards and some reading, then we woke up just before arriving at 8.46am.

From there we went to the hostel, had a shower and headed out to the Terracotta Warriors which was pretty amazing, and managed to pack in a free fountain, light and music show in town in the evening which is a must do if you are in Xi’an….it’s free which is very rare in China, and it’s good fun.  If you feel brave you can even walk through the fountains.

In our second full day in Xi’an we wandered around the Muslin Quarter which has an amazing amount of street eating, but unfortunately it all looked like it would contain gluten so we gave them a miss.

We’re off to catch the train to Guilin which is a 27hr journey and we’ve only got a bed in a 6 person cabin so it’s probably going to be a worse trip than the others.   Just after booking our train we realised the floods hit that area badly as well after seeing Video on the Guilin flooding……luckily it’s subsided now! 

I’ll update some photos once we’re settled in Yangshou.  We’re only going to crash in Guilin for the night as we’re in late, then hope to get the bamboo raft to Yangshou the following day.