Archive for the ‘Phonsavan’ Category

Plain of Jars

Thursday, November 2nd, 2006

I spent today going on a tour that cost myself and another girl $18, and the two other girls in the van $6, and I didn’t even see the town I wanted to see where they have houses built using old bombs etc. I wasn’t willing to pay the extra $15 he wanted so am splitting town on the overnight bus tonight…heading to another ‘beautiful scenic’ area, but ready to be disappointed. I had it out with him about him ripping us off, but he had his money so I’ll just go away and bitch about him. Anyway, short post as it feels like I need an elbow to push this keyboard down….oh yeh, and in my ‘No Holds Barred’ SE Asia guide…Phonsavan has nothing as a town.

Plain of Jars :

Lao Lao brewing from sticky rice….knock ya out! :

Phonsavan to Sam Neua

Thursday, November 2nd, 2006

After one night in Phonsavan I was keen to do an overnight bus trip out of there rather than face another night there. Despite this, my sister had been on the phone after visiting Nong Khiaw and she never thought I’d see better scenery than there and Vang Vieng. Even an hour before I had to get to the bus station I was debating whether to use my prebooked ticket or not (again, a hefty cut taken from the Phoukham Guesthouse). I went for my original plan, then it was bolstered by bumping into a group from our Luang Prabang bus that were doing the same.

I met them (Francisco and Mauro from Argentina, Angelika from Germany, Owen from England, and Nick from Boston) again at the bus station, and got to know them pretty well while waiting for the bus. This bus was doing a complete trip from Vientiene to Sam Neua – a beast of a journey of around 20+ hours. Due to this, it didn’t turn up at 7.30 as expected so we waited. And waited. And waited. Put on more warm clothes (well, the few I had not posted home). And waited. It was cold in Phonsavan at night, like Scottish cold. Eventually after a few sandwiches and coffees later, the bus turned up at 11pm, and we burst into lively (nervous) hysterics.

I had already got used to buses being pretty overloaded in Laos, and Asia in general, but this one turned up with the rear six rows full of boxes and luggage, full of people, including the several sitting in the typical kids-style mini plastic seats deployed in the aisle. And at least 5 motorbikes, plus all the other luggage strapped on the roof.

Where were we going to fit in?

Just as we were about to load our luggage, a second bus arrived which was one third empty. There was no choice as we scrambled onto the second bus, milliseconds after confirming it was bound for Sam Neua as well. That was only after I had taken a photograph and watched my open camera drop to the ground from my wrist. I had nothing else in my hands, no excuse. I was gutted. My second camera within two months, and it was only four weeks old. As happens in travelling, you realise there’s nothing you can do about it, so you just have to carry on.

The 9 hour bus journey wasn’t the comfiest in Laos, as the road was quite twisty and I couldn’t really stretch my legs out. I was sitting next to a local who used my shoulder as an occasional headrest. The other five were sprawled out on the raised back seat, however it turned out they weren’t as comfy as they looked either. My stuffed paclite jacket didn’t prove to be an effective bum rest either.

We arrived at 8am in Sam Neua and it was even colder than Phonsavan. We were all pretty knackered but decided to get some food, and go straight to Vieng Xai rather than take a wee nap. It was refreshing to meet this bunch as there was no hassles – straight into a shared room to cut costs, and laughter all around. Despite them travelling together for a few days I wasn’t left out of it at all, so cheers guys if any of you read this.

Luang Prabang to the Plain of Jars, Phonsavan

Wednesday, November 1st, 2006

I left Luang Prabang for Phonsavan a day after after my sister left Luang Prabang. After multiple options of where to head to I decided to stick to my original plans and got the 8hr daytime road trip to Phonsavan, arriving just in time for dinner. At lunch we stopped briefly in a transit town where I ended up chatting to Cecile from France, well, the French Reunion Island off Madagascar. She was to become my travelling partner and fellow conned merchant for the next day’s trip to the Plain of Jars.

Phonsavan is a pretty, well it’s fair to say, dead town. There’s on strip with guesthouses and a few less than outstanding restaurants. And it’s cold (at least it is in October, but not as cold as other places in Laos). We stayed in Phoukham Guesthouse which turned out to live up to it’s phonetic English sound (alberit slightly manipulated) – “F*ck’em”. We paid three times as much as the other two girls on our tour the next day, and he refused to take me to the town I really wanted to see (he wanted an extra $15 each for that, despite already paying $12 more than others). After some negogiating (pleading) I decided to bin visiting the town over giving him extra cash so left Phonsavan a tad disappointed as I never managed to see the town that has houses constructed of UXO (UnXploded Ordnance) stilts. About the most interesting thing about Phonsavan, but in a very sad way, is that it’s the home of the UK based MAG group that tries to find UXO in the area, which was the most bombed in recent wars. Their office only pointed me to the website when I asked about volunteering and how you went about it. They must be well funded though as they had a load of flash 4×4’s outside.

Oh yeh – the Plain of Jars…is it worth the trip? If I had known I probably wouldn’t have done it, but I did as it was on my way to Sam Neua / Vieng Xai and it broke up my journey. Our tour guide didn’t give us too much background, but that’s partially as their origin isn’t totally understood yet. I’m sure it’s of interest to many, but it is just a field with ancient rock jars on it, which are pretty weird in their own right.