Archive for September, 2006

KL….it rocks

Friday, September 29th, 2006

Arrived in KL last night to a really chilled out hostel…that was until the club next door kicked off. I need to send a shedload more back home to the UK due to my excess baggage on Air Asia almost doubling the cost of my flight from Brunei to KL.

I’m going to have a hard time in KL…. I walked off the airport bus last night and it felt like a new world had opened up – a big city again!!

I had a few drinks with Mia this afternoon, then saw her and Kev off to Singapore. The hard thing about KL? There is just too much to buy…knock off goods, clothes, electronics stuff coming out of your ear, and a shed load of stuff to see on the city outskirts (of which I’ll probably see none, but hey, who cares).

Malaysia….truly Asia? I think so. There’s pretty much everything here you want to, and you’re only a short hop on to anywhere else in the region.

My rose tinted glasses may come off soon…I sure it’s just another London…just a hell of a lot nicer things around, and far more better things to buy.

Does anyone want to employ an IT drop out here? Anything that is mobile, internet oriented, and preferably invloves not too long hours gratefully considered….

Lost my days

Thursday, September 28th, 2006

Well I did only have two days in Brunei…some would say it’s enough, but with a 24kg backpack (yes, I need to send some home) you can’t just go wandering around in the danger that you may see something you’ll buy. It was another day of ‘me’ time, not leaving the hotel until almost lunchtime. I knew that at 1pm I’d be able to go and see the mosque, after the prayer sessions lasted, I mean I wasn’t here on Thursday….

Only it is Thursday. I only realised that after waiting around in the baking sun for 45 mins to let them pray. I then sauntered up to the mosque, re-read the visitors notice, then realised….it was Thursday.

Totally lost track of days, so the one sight everyone would say to see in Brunei…well, it was all closed up to non-muslims, so it had to be killing some time in coffee bean, then off to the airport to head to KL.

Brunei..so much money, so little to do

Wednesday, September 27th, 2006

Yup, the place is awash with cash, although it’s not in your face, you just know it. The good thing is it’s not that expensive a place to live in for a day or so. Museums are free, and you just haggle with the boatmen before you go for a tour.

I had an early start this morning in Labuan, up at 0645 to get the ferry at 0800. It’s just I turned up and the first one was at 0900…oh well. Before I knew it I was handing in my Malaysian landing card (despite now having a visa for here until mid December), and getting the Brunei stamp on my passport in some shack.

I have to say a sorry to Alex though – I’m afraid I’ve let you down…you see I had a reservation at one of the few cheap places, then read reviews of chinese hookers etc hanging out there and it generally being a seedy place. As I knew there wouldn’t be much to do here, I move to a 23 quid hotel instead, even before I left Labuan. Sorry, my days of real adventure have yet to come….

After a wee snooze (knowing a day would be a long time to kill) I wandered around Brunei. I went to the hawker stalls at the market looking for the peanut pancake things I knew you’d get there, however, probably due to Ramadan, there only seemed to be fruit and veg there. A little old lady sent me on my way asking no money for the bananas I went to buy from her… I then went for a walk around Kampung Ayer which is a stilted village in the middle of the town, one of the things I wanted to see. Unfortunately it was a bit of a let down with not as much character as expected, but a few ramshackle shacks on the way in with deserted typewriters etc. There were a few kids hanging around outside a house so I asked to take a picture then got into a wee conversation – a really cute wee girl speaking perfect English, lining up her brothers and sisters for me while welcoming me to Brunei. I ended up on a half hour boat tour on one of the hundreds of boat taxis buzzing around the river. The commentary went something like this, with a lot of pointing :

“School, school, school, fishing………school, school, school, fishing…Brunei have many schools….school, school, firestation, boat school, Brunei have many schools, school school, police…musum (I soon worked out this was museum)… etc” Still, he was a very nice man, told me he loved me and any other english he could say while I handed him my $10BD note. I left with a distinct lack of photos I expected.

I decided to chill out again as there was hardly anyone around town, so I find myself just after a 4 quid nice meal, surrounded by young Brunians (is that correct) online gaming shouting “Fuck…Fuck…biiiiiiitch….I’m dead….Fuck….then the occasional game update in their local lingo”.

On the whole – nice people, boring place. Pretty much as expected. But hey, country number 32.

Labuan – The Garden Island of Borneo – who locked the frickin’ gates?

Tuesday, September 26th, 2006

Well when you look at any Tourism Malaysia brochure, or any diving websites, you’ll read about Labuan…a strange offshore financial centre run from KL. Why was I heading here? Good question, but to be honest, it had a bit to do with (ducks my head) ticking off a country for once…I mean Brunei is so close to Kota Kinabalu and I decided to take the ferry there, which means via Labuan. Now I had heard horror stories of this ferry journey from a fellow Raleigh staffer, but I was branching out on my own, so it was a time for an adventure. Also, to be honest, a large part of it had to to with three of four amazing WWII wrecks which sit just off the coast, and a really cool sounding Marine Park as well – I’d be able to snorkel at the very least. Although…when I went looking for dive operators to take me here it wasn’t an easy task. My faithful friends at Borneo Divers had suspended operations there, and the Tourism ‘Action’ Council for Labuan never responded to my emails.
Anyway, my flight from Brunei to KL was booked so off I went. The hotel desk couldn’t even tell me where to find the boats to the marine park so I never bother asking them about the diving. I took this as a sign and had my one long lie in four months and sacked off the visit, to waste away a day killing time and catching up with myself.

Just as well…I went to Tourism Malaysia and they told me where to get the boats, but not the price. I found the boats, fully stocked with life jackets but “no-one is booked tomorrow, and its 250RM to hire the boat” – around 36 quid. No way for a snorkel and a sunbathe. I went to the dive operator who’s leaflet I found in the tourist place…and they were locked up, despite having a dive shop with kit in it. Incase you stumble on this post trying to arrange the same thing – do it with a group and try contacting Borneo Star Dive in Labuan.

Anyway, I had no interest in seeing war or chimney museums or heading to a deserted beach on the other side of the island, so I went for a haircut, and caught up with a few things at the deserted Sheraton Hotel pool. They’re not wasted days though – I would have always wandered what it was like if I didn’t go.

There are a few good things I found though – a cheap food market, cheap beer, and generally a place cheaper than KK due to it’s Duty Free status.

Labuan, Malaysia

Monday, September 25th, 2006

Well I’m now sitting in Labuan wandering WTF I’m doing here. You see I posted a load of stuff home this morning as I figured I wouldn’t need it til NZ. I then realised I still had my trekking poles, and my bag was way too ridiculously heavy. In my quest to do something different though I opted for the adventure to Brunei via Labuan, whereas I should have flown to my sister’s in Manila, dumped a load of stuff like erm, waterproofs, and headed back there in Jan to collect it all. I also remembered that my sister was in Singapore this weekend so should’ve hooked up with her there really, but I wanted to have a few nights in KL. I also posted home my Malaysia, Brunei and Singapore guidebook before I realised that the SE Asia in a Shoestring only has half a page on Labuan…..

It was quite hard leaving KK this morning, but I think that was as much to do with the weight of my backpack than anything. The ferry here was nothing like the horror stories I had heard, and I caught up on some sleep.

I watched the news for the first time in four months tonight. Another wonderful twist in my travel planning – the holy month of Ramadan started yesterday…yes, a couple of days before I decided to head to frickin’ Brunei. According to the Brunei Government website : “The Brunei government also shows its respect during the fasting month of Ramadan….. while all entertainment and sport activities are temporarily suspended.” Looks like I’m in for a whale of a time.

Anyway, the one good thing about Labuan is that it is duty free. A large bottle of Tiger is only 3.50RM (50 pence) here which is less than half of what it is in KK. A 1L bottle of Bombay Sapphire is 7.50 UKP! A pack of Malboro Lights, 65pence. I went a wander around town tonight – not much happening but I stumbled on a local market of food stalls selling noodles, bbq’d meat and fish, so a box of noodles was 15pence 🙂

Their tourism industry could be done with a kick in the nuts though – everywhere you read about here it mentions the fantastic wreck diving, but it’s not easy to find anyone to take you there. The two people I asked here about where to get the ferry to the Marine Park (yes, the National Park!) for snorkelling didn’t know, and one of them was the hotel. I think I’ll head to the tourism office first thing and decide from there. I thought I may just end up heading to Brunei if I can’t go snorkelling but the thought of maybe not being able to sit around and have snacks during the day doesn’t really turn me on.

But the main thing? All this doesn’t really matter. Apart from the weight of my rucksack nothing else matters – I don’t have to be anywhere at any time before MOnday morning. I spoke to my mate I’m meeting in KL who has looked into Myanmar quite a bit and it turns out she knows someone there the start of October who knows their way around, so I think it may be up to Bangkok, grab a Myanmar visa, take a few pictures of tanks in the streets, dump all my electronic gear at her mates in Bangkok (to save the immigration sending me back, or keeping it at the border), then hot foot it to Myanmar for a short spell.

Apart from all that, all is well, except missing not having a compact camera!

Last night in KK

Sunday, September 24th, 2006

Well it feels like I’ve been writing this all the time – ‘last night in KK’, ‘moving on soon’,’my own phase 2′ and all that crap. But as long as I can get my bombsite of a hostel room in a better state tomorrow and post a couple of boxes home, I should be on the ferry to Labuan tomorrow lunchtime, and Brunei a day or so later. After a few failed emails, a quick handphone call (thats what they call mobiles here) to Brunei and I do believe I may have a room booked in one of the very rare cheap accommodation places in Brunei.

I finished my Rescue Diver course today and it was weird saying bye to the crowd at Borneo Divers. They’ve been so good to everyone on the expedition and getting us all through so many courses, and the head honcho is so interested in the expedition work (ok, I’ve bigged him up as he liked my end of expedition slideshow ;->).

Anyway, it’s on a sad note to leave Kota Kinabalu. A few days ago I was flying here from Tawau (where you fly to Mabul / Sipadan) and I didn’t want to come back here, but after four months it starts to mean a bit more I guess. Sabah rocks as a destination….KK is like any big city (although if I came here for a weekend I’d think it was sh!t) but around it there is so much to do, and you can anything here from fancy hotels to the lively filipino market and their amazing peanut pancake thingies you get there.

Last night I was so pleased I had only spent two pounds all day and thought I had got into ‘travellers mode’…then I bumped into someone and blitzed 25 quid on beers at the fancy bars.

I ended my time here well though – I bumped into a tour guide from another country who just landed and went out for beers and food with him talking about travels, Sabah, the differences and how to relate to people back home (in a non-wanky way), gave him a whistle stop tour of KK so he can pretend he knows the place in a few weeks, and then he threw the whole night on his expenses. If Nod, Rich, Phil, Jane or Jade reads this I made sure I ended it the way I started it…. at BB Cafe like my first night here…

Diving pictures from Sipadan

Saturday, September 23rd, 2006





Here’s a couple of my diving pics from Sipadan taken at White Tip Avenue, and Barracuda Point (before the camera flooded!!). There’s a shot of one of many turtles and a couple of a large 3 foot cuttlefish, and one of a school of barracudas starting to spiral down in a tornado formation.

I spent today at Mamutik Island again getting bitten by the mossies and the sand flies…those of you from Raleigh will understand that well. I expected to do more skills for my Rescue Diver but I ended up just doing the exam, and accompanying people on two dives around the island. I saw another turtle today. I then flew through my exam and will finish off the practical skills tomorrow.

I’m kinda sad to be leaving KK now but it has to be done, although that depends on how well I get on in packaging up my boxes to send home – a task that seems a lot bigger than it actually is.

Second phase…starts Monday!

Friday, September 22nd, 2006

Well that’s the loose plan. The second phase of my non-Raleigh adventure starts Monday as I plan to leave my ‘home’ that is Kota Kinabalu to take the ferry to Labuan (still Malaysia) off the coast of Brunei, spend a night or two there, then a couple of days in Brunei before flying up to Kuala Lumpur on Thursday. This will give me a few nights there before meeting my mate. Of course, the only thing I’ve booked is my flight from, Brunei – not the ferries or anything…hey one step at a time!!

Unfortunatly it doesn’t look like the wreck dives will happen in Labuan as hoped – probably a good thing for the ‘budget’ but not so good for the experiences. There’s a distinct lack of cheap accommodation in both those places so I’m fighting the urge to go upmarket in one of them….guess I need to buy a new camera sometime!

Rescue Diver and planning next move

Friday, September 22nd, 2006

Well still no new pictures as I don’t have my laptop online. I’ve been back in KK saying yet more goodbyes, often to the same people. I’m now the only Raleigh staff in the hostel so it’s starting to change a bit, with several flying to KL and Cambodia tomorrow.

I spent today and yesterday doing my PADI Rescue Diver course, and will finish it off tomorrow or the next day. I’m trying to make some plans for next week but failing miserably. I thought I’d head to Brunei just to see what it’s like, and get the ferry from KK via Labuan to see some of these amazing wrecks that all the tourism promotions go on, and on, and on about…..but it seems it’s quite difficult to sort out a trip – a google search doesn’t give me any details, the tourism board doesn’t give me any dive schools, and the agent in KK says hardly anyone goes there now, despite teh tourism board still pumping out information about it. I then tried to find out cheap accommodation there and ran into another stumbling block.

Hey ho I may just take the chance, but it looks like the diving is out. It also looks like the dive operators have started to wrap up in the Perhentians already which is a bit of a pain as I am heading there on 3rd October….

It’s strange to know I’ll be leaving KK next week. When I came back here from Sipadan I didn’t want to make the trip as I wanted to move on elsewhere, however now I’m here it’s great having a place I know my way around, and I look at all the Orang-putees (dodgy spelling, but basically white folk) and wander what they’re doing in ‘my town’.

I’ll be in KL by the end of next week, meanwhile I ‘m off to try and sort out some luggage I have to send home…..! Maybe a night out with a staffer who is back in town tonight, but it depends if I hear from him or not – maybe tomorrow instead….

Oh yeh, and I saw a massive stonefish today (just after one had to be moved from the beach area), and a blue spotted stingray today…luckily I didn’t tease it like some other famous folk recently…

Hmm…my camera’s not switching on in this dive….and more sharks

Tuesday, September 19th, 2006

It’s the last day’s diving today, so three to finish it off. This morning we were back to Sipadan at 0745. Yesterday the diving didn’t look promising as we had to transfer in pretty rough seas, but it turned out ok. Last night there was a tropical storm (evidence by the trashed house in the stilted village we saw later), so it looked even worse today. I had a mad moment during the night thinking I had left my rash vest and shorts outside…and they had disappeared. Just as I was about to head out on a search in the middle of the storm, around 3am, I remembered I had hung them up in the bathroom. Quite an amazing acheivement really as I was so knackered after heading back last night, and had consumed a tiger and several ‘specially imported’ (ahem) shots of Filipino Tanduay Rum obtained from the local village next to the resort.

So the first dive went a bit like this…. hmmm…my camera’s not switching on – weird. I had put new batteries in this morning and had resealed the o-ring on the waterproof housing. I gave it several attempts then gave up. It was then I started to see the mist forming on the inside, closely followed by a rapidly increasing bubble of water filling up the inside of the casing……not much I could do at this point apart from sack off the dive in the hope I rescued it. We had got dropped off at White Tip Point though so I knew there should be more sharks down below (albeit not that huge)……so I did the only thing that was right…..continue the dive, watching the water seeping in, and rapidly trashing my camera. I quickly calculated that Raleigh staff seem to have around a 20% hit rate on trashing cameras on this trip……. never mind, it’ll give me an excuse to buy these Sony’s I’ve been eyeing up, despite their trashed count sitting at two.

It was a weird feeling coming in and washing down my camera in fresh water. I’m currently holding out the memory card dries out successfully as I was too lazy and relaxed to download the pictures of turtles and sharks last night…arrrggg.

Anyway, the dive continued and we saw more huge turtle elegantly cruising by and a few more white tipped sharks. The second dive at Coral Reef Garden had quite a current which was hard work after a while, but loads of coral to be seen.

Anyway, my last or second last dive beckons…I must dash…