Archive for the ‘Uzbekistan’ Category

Burkhara, Uzbekistan

Wednesday, May 12th, 2010

We’ve made it to Burkhara in Uzbekistan. The streets in Tashkent were as wide as the best of them in Paris. It’s a very green city, but it looks to be getting less green as trees were getting chopped down all around us eating lunch (a touchy subject in Tashkent – more soon).

We took the train to Burkhara this morning and spent 7 hours on a comfy train with shedloads of room for luggage. None of this 2 seats facing in each direction and a table in the middle – we had two seats, and the space you’d expect another two seats to be in the UK were free to put your luggage with no seats there.
Today is the first day I’ve really felt like I’m away travelling as we wandered around artistans and craftsmen – it reminded me a bit of Hoi An in Vietnam. I’m trying desperately not to buy stuff and think of shipping it home to my imaginery house back home! Of course there are plenty of madrassah’s, minarets and mosques and for once I have been really impressed with them (they don’t usually ‘float my boat’).
As well as that the food’s been great and people are super friendly.
Every car was a taxi in Tashkent! Every night we’ve had lifts home from punters and they are far more efficient and regular than the Edinburgh taxis – they almost envisage the exact point you want a lift and pull up and offer you one.
We did see some pretty eye opening (or head opening!) heads of something for sale at the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent this morning. If you’re reading this over breakfast stop now….
It was literally a dozen heads which I assume were cows, lying on the tarmac, quite literally with their heads cut open. I saw the guy throwing some skins into the back of his car boot as well……I did warn you. When I get back online I’ll try to put pics up too 🙂

Plans at the moment are to leave here on Thursday and get back to Tashkent, take a day trip to the mountains, then we have a taxi booked to take us into Kyrgyzstan on Sunday, spending the night in Fergana Valley.
I must admit I’m typing this about 80km from the north Afghan border and another 80km would take us down to Masir-e-Sharif. I’d just love to head down there again, but time doesn’t allow. I’m looking forward to keeping a track of a guy in the guesthouse who is heading through Afghanistan independently next week as part of some grand overlanding plan.

Oman in the heat

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

Well I’ve been a bit busy remembering how to relax to do any blogging.
We’ve not been in Oman since Monday after a half empty flight. As usual it’s getting hot, hot hot over here at this time of year. Yesterday the car thermometer registered 58c and my watch 39c. Given we were sitting in the traffic I’d sway towards my watch but it’s been hotter than that too.
Anyway we’re not doing much in Oman apart from relaxing and spending time with family and niece.
We squeezed in a visit to the Grand Mosque yesterday which we never fitted in the last time, and we’re off to see some turtles hatching along the coast tonight.  We did borrow the car yesterday and went down to the beach, walking along it was like walking along a hot bath the water was so warm.

Apart from this we won’t be leaving Muscat whilst here which is a shame as we’re missing out on the 4×4’ing, ‘wadi bashing’ and the mountains we did the last time.  We’re taking advantage of the decent food and the luxury of staying with family before the diet of mutton and trying to find gluten free food in Russian hits us!

I have however done more exercise than I’ve done for quite some time.  If you have kids you really owe them a Plasmacar , and one for yourself. The advantage of tiled floors are great though – I was racing these along the hallway for an hour or so yesterday, until of course I cheated and ran over her toe while holding onto her car and passing her…..bad news.

I already feel we’re taking the easy options sometimes but I’m really not bothered.  Our friend is meeting us at Tashkent airport, but he refused to pass on his ‘tips for surviving the airport’ he promised as I stupidly told him the same, so he reckoned he’d let us work out the airport beaurocracy and queue fighting ourselves.

We can’t believe that we’ll be back for a day then off again. We’re looking forward to the adventures but we’re both not looking forward to lugging our massive packs around with us. I’ve managed to install a VPN so we can get onto Skype etc and it will be good prep for China where some other sites will be blocked. It also means we can access BBC iPlayer and other stuff if we get a bit homesick (ha!).
Things in Uzbekistan are coming together as well with us having some accommodation sorted for the first and last two nights in the capital, and a train trip to Burkara to see some mosques etc. We’ve also decided that we’re going to take an easy option of prebooking (therefore overpaying) a shared taxi from one guesthouse in Uzbekistan to another in Kyrgyzstan….but putting in an overnight stop so we can see the silk factories in the Fergana Valley….. this is after all some of the Silk Road we’re following.