Archive for November, 2006

Are tuk-tuk drivers the ultimate entrpeneur?

Sunday, November 12th, 2006


I think there is a training school for tuk-tuk drivers in Asia. I think it goes like this, probably in this order :
Can you load this thing up to the max?
Can you almost drive this thing?
– no? It’s ok, they don’t go that fast.
Can you barter hard when challenged?

After an induction period they get advanced training so they can offer inroads to other lines of business, all with no shop fronts required?
‘You smoke?’
‘You want lady?

I’m sure there must be a cut off though as the second and third options are quite common, they’re not offered by them all, but usually when the tuk tuk ride is refused. Maybe they think it’s not a tuk tuk ride you’re after. Purely in the pursuit of market forces training, I was almost tempted to see the price of the third, then ask the lady calling me from the other side of the street in Vientiene directly. I’m curious to see what cut they get….

Oh I left all the oranges I acquired from the Orange truck in Vieng Xai in Vang Vieng, happy they didn’t have to be carted round Laos any more without being eaten. I also left a bag of crisps that survived the circuit from Luang Prabang where I bought them, back to there and down to Vang Vieng. And I wonder why I carry so much…

Vang Vieng Day 2

Saturday, November 11th, 2006

Spent today tubing with a couple of girls I met climbing yesterday, and a girl who took my photo in Luang Prabang (small world, not an exciting explanation!). Reluctantly I plan on leaving tomorrow – I think that’s Sunday, not because I’m ready for it, just that I need to time wise to get through southern Laos in a whistle stop fashion! Yesterday I went climbing which was fantastic – great to get out on rock again. Tomorrow I have to fight with my mind as I know two seperate people going on various routes, and I’ve got to know three of the instructors well, (having drinks and eating at their restaurants) so I’m desperate to hang around and climb with them tomorrow but my schedule dictates otherwise. I’m also a tad jealous of Jane’s posting from the Red Cross in Luang Prabang as I want to be doing it too!

A big thanks to Amy, Zoe, Deb(s) and Joe for the last day or so of fun in Vang Vieng! In fact thanks to everyone I’ve met so far – Israeli, English, Irish, American, German, Argentinian, Spanish, Australian, Polish, New Zealand, French, and last but certainly not least Canadian (and the others I’ve missed)

I feel like a bit of a spoilt brat being out here and complaining about lack of time, but there’s just loads of things I’ll miss out on, and I’ve not been moving fast at all compared to some!

Advice for others travelling – save loads, buy a one way ticket, go on your own, and get people to fit into your plans ;->

Vang Vieng

Friday, November 10th, 2006

Sunset at Vang Vieng :

I can’t actually decide whether I like Vang Vieng or not….
On one hand it’s in an amazing setting with limestone cliffs all around, but on the other hand it’s in a shithole of a town, full of bars playing movies, Friends and the Simpsons! But to cater for the backpacker crowd there’s also some quite naff bars on the riverside, but it’s also pretty relaxing to sit by them and have a beer, one foot dangling in the river. Going price for a joint is 40,000Kip (don’t worry mum) and there’s a lot of that kicking around. If only Luang Prabang could have the activities like this and not be spoiled it’d be perfect.

But, I went climbing today. I’m don’t think it was value for money at $21 but it got me on rock, and I had a good time, despite being defeated by an overhang move, but hey, I haven’t climbed since May.

I’ve not had a chance to write posts about my recent circuit in North East Laos yet. I could easily spend a couple of months in Laos but I’ve got a real time dilemma about hitting Veitnam by the end of the month, with very limited time in Cambodia so I think I’ll have to move south the day after tomorrow, and take a killer overnight 24 hour bus journey south from Vientiene to Pakse, and that sucks! Too little time!

Rope swings at a tubing stop (right next to a climbing area called Sleeping Cave :

A riverside bar at the end of tubing :

Kids at a village on between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng :

Amy on a 6a? :

Me at the crux move on a 6b, before my not-used-to-climbing arms gave up :

Me just before the crux move :

Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

Thursday, November 9th, 2006

Jeez, I managed to get out of Luang Prabang! It was hard, it has to be said, it was just such a relaxing chilled place. Even at the bus station I was feeling weird about leaving when I said goodbye to Jane in the tuk-tuk as her next stop was the Red Cross to find out about the volunteering I was keen to do. But hey, if it sounds good I can always go back. Time is passing too quickly to stay 🙁 I also tried to speak to the guy at the adventure tours place about potential opportunities last night, but fate decided it was his night off – the only time he hasn’t been there in the dozens of times I’ve walked past… but this generally sums up my Luang Prabang experience…chilling out and leaving everything until it had to be done.

I found even more places in the last few days that I had meant to check out for days – a really cool place called le’Cinema that has private rooms, with hundreds of DVDs you can pick and watch, and l’etranger book shop which we chilled in for hours yesterday, not even watching the world go by…and eating a damn fine ceasar salad baguette. Even at the night market I found the most tasty, yet sickly sweet coffee I’ve had for ages, AND I got it to takeaway! The Lao Coffee rocks. Even better when it’s served ‘Sabah style’ (a kickback to my Borneo days) with sweet condensed thick syrupy ‘milk’. I also went for a bit of a shopathon at the night market which was great, but has left me carrying even more shit with me – so much so the guys from the bus thought I was moving house.

Today I made the 7.5 hour public bus journey from Luang Prabang down to Vang Vieng. Despite not having taken any of the ‘VIP’ tourist buses yet I’m convinced the local buses are the best way to travel…take a bit longer as you stop off at some village dropping rice and stuff off, but far less tourists, and you manage to get a better glance at the places you pass through, rather than being surround by 60 tourists gazing out the window at 70km/h. And you meet cooler people. Usually.

Vang Vieng is home of some of the biggest limestone karsts in SE Asia, and I’ve got a decent room for $3, with a communal balcony out the back overlooking the river. Hopefully I’ll get some tubing down the river tomorrow, or a climb ($21!!) and get a better feel for the place. As usual my scenic expectations haven’t quite been matched yet, but I’ll give it time. I’m off out to post this blog entry, and avoid any happy pizzas, and see if this place is really as much of a backpackerville as it’s made out to be.

Leaving Luang Prabang….erm, I think

Wednesday, November 8th, 2006

Jane chilling in l’etranger bookshop while I work out my tie is disappearing :

Jane and I on Phu Si hill, just before sunset :

Well I’ve finally decided to leave Luang Prabang! It’s not easy though. It’s been great hooking up with Jane (ex-Raleigh) here but as usual, it’s always too short. It’s been like having a mate come over and visit. Regular readers (ha, who am I kidding) will know I was keen to try and find out about volunteering with the Red Cross here and Jane is going to do that tomorrow…arrrggg! So I think I’m going to have to hand over the keys to what feels like my new (temporary ) home town to her, and seeth with jealousy over her updates.
Yes I could stay around for another week but I also looked at a calendar today, and as

I thought every time when thinking about a year out – deadlines suck! Need to finish my mini tour to get back to Thailand in mid Dec, and Vietnam in 3 weeks so hardly any time at all! So, sadly it’s time to start moving south to Vang Vieng, Vientiene, and hopefully down through souther Laos and ‘4000 Islands’ to cross into Cambodia…..

Sob, sob…. mind you though – could change plans tonight!!

l’etranger bookshop restaurant – the ultimate chill :

Lost in Luang Prabang

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006

At least thats what it feels like. I was meant to collect my passport tonight with Vietnamese and Cambodian visas in it, however its delayed by a day because of holidays so I’m here for another night. Oh well, could be worse as this place is so chilling…maybe too much for me! Some people speak about feeling guilty when they don’t do anything if long term travelling – sod that! I love it!

Today was a late start though as I dragged (well, didn’t really have to) Jane to the Vietnam Bar last night. As we arrived we were told the place was closed as the police had been round, but after asking nicely we were served by the ‘barman’. Due to the circumstances there were only 6 of us in it but as I had a Raleigh Reunion going on with Jane, somehow my hand went into my pocket, brought out some cash and I had purchased a couple of small bottles of Thai Whiskey. That on top of the Lao Lao shots and several beers…well you can imagine. At least this time I made it back ok and was dropped off my the beer scooter (aka tuk tuk)…the last time I was in the Vietnam Bar last week I was dropped off somewhere a group of folk were staying, haggled with the tuk tuk driver as he was charging us too much…so he just hand signalled the direction of my accommodation. Here I was stumbling around unfamiliar familiar streets (yes I meant to type that – it was dark, my vision was poor ;->), trying to find the river – the most f*cking obvious thing in the whole town.

I saw a local wandering around so I went to ask him where my guesthouse was. By this time I had already seen another guesthouse I walked past in ‘the book’ (Lonely Planet), however I couldn’t seem to orientate myself. He pointed a few times, spoke to me in Laos. Much laughter and confusion later he signalled me to follow him down a side street, opened a wooden door, and took me around town on the back of his scooter. Although his English managed to point out every guesthouse we went past, he eventually realised I had one, took me to the river, and I navigated to my guesthouse.

I bumped into one of the tuk tuk crowd the following night. Apparently I was dropped off just round the corner and along the road from my guesthouse.

Here’s a cheesy pic of me and Jane in the Vietnam Bar last night.

Don’tcha love the net

Monday, November 6th, 2006

Just emailed Jane I met at Raleigh to see if she was in Luang Prabang. Emailed her at 4.30pm with vague instructions where and when to hook up if she happened to be in town (I knew she was in the area last week), stayed online too long, and got a repply at 6pm to say ‘yeh, see you at 7pm’.

The joys of travel.

Another month, another camera bites the dust..(literally!) …and stones

Monday, November 6th, 2006

I’ve trashed my new camera! I’ve only had it for 4 weeks (or since I was in KL, whenever that was). I was standing at Phonsavan bus station, and had been for 4.5 hours waiting on our bus in the bloody cold night (seriously – proper cold, and who sent their fleece home?! Thank god for Merino wool!). Our bus came along, the 6 of us (the rest I just met at the station) wandering how we were going to get on. We had all night in this thing, and it was stacked to the gunnels with people and goods, and there were at least 4 motorbikes on the roof, along with the rest.

We were sitting there taking pictures before we jumped on, and my Canon S80 leaped out of my hand, the lens extended. After that it refused to play ball, the lend neither retracting or fully extending, meaning yet again, I’m without a small camera!

Arrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Back in Luang Prabang

Monday, November 6th, 2006

It’s been a long time since I had close contact with a female, but today I got all hot and sweaty with a local. I gently caressed her bottom with my foot while her face were in my private parts, and every so often we would glance at each other to check we were both still ok, her hands moving around my legs at various intervals.

Unfortunately it was because I was one of the last ones on the pick up back to Luang Prabang, so here was around 20 folk piled on a share taxi (converted pick up) back to Luang Prabang. I was hanging off the back standing up with some other guys, there were plenty of locals crammed in the back, and this lass was dangling from the rear of the pick up. I was standing up there for almost 4 hours, but it was the best place to see what we were passing through. Once my nervousness got over the fact that the van started leaning as we went around corners, the odd skid from the driver etc, it was a pretty good journey considering.

I’m back in Luang Prabang after a quick circuit around Phonsavan (Plane of Jars), Sam Neu, Vieng Xia, Nong Khiaw and Mon Neu. It almost feels like coming home, but I think I’ll be leaving on Wednesday morning after my passport comes back (hopefully) with Cambodian and Vietnam visas in it. Half the last few days (I think I left last Wednesday) have been spent on some form or transport or other. These included a pickup, full and empty buses, bikes, boats, and a fruit truck (we kinda missed the last share taxi back from the caves at Vieng Xai so had some negotiating to do. It was either pay the fruit truck guy and help ourselves to his oranges, whilst dangling off the back, or pay the guy who tried to rip us off – we had no choice and a great story).

Anyway, I’ll write more soon, but that’s all just now folks!

Muang Ngoi Neua to Luang Prabang

Monday, November 6th, 2006

As you can imagine we were up for the first boat leaving at 9.30am, happy in the knowledge we’d catch a bus that connected with the boat in the morning – information gratefully received from the aussie couple involved in discussions the night before.

As we arrived around 10.30am we had a pretty mad dash to cross the bridge, rescue our luggage, settle our bill and dart back to grab a bus. As always seems to happen, when we were heading up the street from the boat a sawngthaew driver looked out at us and shouted ‘Udomxai’?. This was Angelica’s destination.

‘Can you wait until I get my luggage?’
’15 minutes’.

Deal was done, other travellers promising to wait for Angelica, and the Aussies doing the same for me on the way back to Nong Khiaw.

When I got back I was shouted over to my pickup which was jam packed and fully loaded, and Angelica’s was ready to go. I’ve never found out if she made it to Udomxai as her driver seemed to criss cross our path several times getting out of the two street town! I settled into my four hours of hanging off the back, as always the best way to see the place, and get a tan at the same time. This journey was a bit sketchy at first as you could see the tilt of the pickup as it rounded corners – you’re sheilded from that inside. The Aussies sounded concerned for me every time we stopped but I was happy as Larry (who is Larry in that saying anyway) having a whale of a time. Gladly the driver seemed to calm down after a few small screeches going through a town, and I had an interesting chat about teaching in Korea with a Canadian.

After trying a few places I ended up back at my Pathoumphone, the same accommodation as my previous visit to Luang Prabang, and felt like I was coming home!

I knew Jane, one of the Project Managers from Raleigh may have been in town around now so I dashed to an internet cafe to send a quick email incase she picked it up that day. An hour later I had a reply, and we were sorted to meet at my ‘just in case you are in town’ destination at 7pm. I bumped into her on the way into town, sorted her out at the same accommodation as me, and we headed out so I could show her this place I raved about, the night markets, the Lao Lao bar, and of course, another trip to the Vietnam Bar after hours.

This time the Vietnam Bar wasn’t as welcoming as they had just had a police visit. After a little pleasant negotiation I was allowed to carry on my celebrations with the 6 people effectively having an illegal lock-in. All of a sudden I seemed to get a bottle of Thai Whisky which was finished rather rapidly as my new found Dutch friends appeared to help themselves safe in the promise they’d buy the next one, and we had good chats with a few Irish lads. My first disagreement happened with the Dutch prick when he backtracked on his witnessed statment…so I bought another bottle!

A late night was had by all, but luckily this time a tuk tuk took us straigh back to the accommodation, bypassing the need to find a friendly local to give me a lift around town on his motorbike like the last Vietnam Bar outing……