Fingers crossed for Scotland

 

Please, please, surely we can beat Italy tomorrow night!!

Reflections on Afghanistan

(Pic : Sunset over Kabul from Murad Khane)
Although it's only two days ago I left Kabul, it seems so long ago, especially flying into the modern metropolis of Dubai, apparently home of 20% of the world's cranes.  If only some of the building equipment here could be moved over to Afghanistan.

Now I'll never, ever, try to say I have an understanding of Afghanistan after a fleeting 10 day visit.  I was lucky to be able to speak to many people out there working - both Afghans and foreigners, Afghan businesswomen, many locals, and tour guides during my time.

(Picture : some traditional herbs used for medicine...and mulberry bread given to us by ex-mujahaddin, which they felt was necessary after I gave them a Scottish postcard as a thank you for tea and cakes in Panshjir valley)

(Picture : Carpet seller in old bizarre, downtown Kabul)

All the time I was speaking through interpreters, so I was never sure if I was really hearing the truth, especially some of the circumstances I found myself in.

(Picture : A typical butcher!  Yes, even next to the dusty roads)

One thing I am absolutely sure about though is that the country is not as dangerous to visit as you would believe if all you read if the western media.  Find other sources on the internet etc if you are thinking about travelling there.  Speak to the local guides over there.  Obviously the place is not without it's risks - there were several incidents we heard of that would never make the news.

(Picture : a '70 or 71 year old year - he's not sure' market pottery trader)

It's a confusing place to try and grab a realistic opinion of.  Some people say the media is great now and pretty free to say what they want, as long as they are balanced, yet others say there are loads of problems with journalists being pressurised from officials.  No-one painted a great picture of the police force which is a shame as you see them everywhere.  But maybe they should be paid a bit more than the $50 a month figure I heard, assuming that's true.

(Picture : a chickpea vendor in the market)

Some of the local's seemed very hopeful for the future, whereas others apparently still don't have any belief in what the future holds, wandering why large parts of their countries are still at war.

I can understand the Afghan's frustration at the lack of progress.  In Kabul there are still hardly any paved streets, no street lighting, and power is still not something to be relied upon.  Meanwhile the American's are 'restoring democracy' from a compound where the majority of them are forbidden to leave.

Although I met, and stayed with some great NGO's I am a tad skeptical about this area of regenaration.  Some of the people I met were from superb educational backgrounds and had a real passion for introducing new (actually very traditional, old in reality) techniques to Afghan labourers, and letting them experiment to see what would work and what wouldn't.  Many of these NGO's were making a real effort to learn the language as well.  The labourers who worked for them seemed to enjoy their time there and totally appreciate the work and opportunities they had been offered.

There is a real need to fill the sad educational gap from the last few decades of war in the country.  However the cynical side of me fears there are too many NGO's using countries like Afghanistan to try out their own pet projects, to do something they couldn't do at home, get a shit load of funding, then walking away when it runs out.  If you were really cynical you may think it's the place where people from Berkeley and Harvard end up when they don't know what else to do (this is a huge generalisation as I met a load of wonderful people from this background who were doing a world of good out there - sometimes it just felt like I never met anyone without an educational background from Harvard, Berkeley or Oxford universities).

Anyway, that's my waffle on Afghanistan as I sit in Dubai, recovering from 'afghan belly', preparing for my flight back to a cold Scotland in a couple of days time.

Everyone we met there was great, and the locals were fascinating, but sadly sometimes for the sad reasons that can't really be described as fascinating - leaving their country due to war, or living through decades of hardship.  There's a potential great future in the country, with loads of opportunities for tourism from trekking to culture to rafting and climbing.  If only the 'powers that be' can sort their shit out!

(Picture : the traditionally poorer end of the market)

Buying War Carpets (or rugs) on Chicken Street, Kabul

Here are some shots of the war carpets I looked at in Chicken Street, just before we left Kabul.  Obviously the carpet shop owners weren't going to let us escape without rolling out more rugs, but I had more than enough stuff to take back that my $7 sports bag I bought wouldn't survive with any more in it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the ones were saw were cheap versions but that was fine as I wasn't going to spend a lot on these.  You can only guess the quality based in the spelling in the carpets, but maybe I'm judging too much based on the lack of education the Afghan population has had to suffer over the last few decades.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course, like everyone we met the owners were more than happy to show us more and tell us their stories.

Return to Dubai

I never managed to venture further than the hammock out the back today.  Terrible sleep, and things coming out of places you don't want to know this morning.  Seems like it's my time to get Afghan belly.

It sucked not being able to do anything, but despite feeling completely drained, it was kinda nice to lie on the hammock and do bugger all all day long, apart from snooze.

It looks like Dubai will be a chilled out few days and I may not even make it in to town.  Although Afghanistan now seems like ages ago, despite feeling like we were there a long time when there, I think the manic 10 days is starting to take it's toll!

Leaving Kabul

Yesterday was my last day in Kabul.  We were lucky to get a free car from mid morning to take us to Chicken Street -the traditional hippy shopping street when the Silk Route was followed by many.

Needless to say I had to buy a war carpet as a souvenir.  There are different styles (all pretty ugly!) - some with the twin towers on them, and some with areas of Afghanistan depicted by the weapons of choice in the region.

We then headed to the airport and got dropped as close to the terminal as you can, with most people quite a bit further away than us.  Unfortunately news started to trickle through about our flight being delayed until somewhere between 6 and 9pm, when it was originally meant to leave at 1530.  Kabul isn't the best airport to be sitting around as you don't get anywhere near the terminal building until check in time.

After a while some people started to get offered flight changes to catch connecting flights that night, so suddenly we had a connecting flight too, organised by our 'fixer' in Dubai (therefore explaining why we never had tickets ;->).

After being barred from the airport by the Afghan police, and Kate being taken out again after managing to get through, we finally made it in.  At each step someone else tried to stop us getting further, even at the final hurdle of the x-ray machine.  One cop said "no", while his mate took my arm and said "go through my friend".  I was lucky at getting through all the stages without paying any bribes at all despite having probably 4 opportunities where I could have used one to ease my passage through.

Eventually we were in the last 5 people to get our Kam Air flights changed to Pamir Airways - so good the ISAF troops are banned from using them.  The stewardesses were grim not raising a smile once, and the pilot decided to pump his brakes at various points along the runway after we landed.  The interior was definitely due a refit, but I'm sure there are many worse airlines in the world.

Finally we landed in Dubai only 90 mins or so after our original arrival time, and my body seemed to lapse after a hectic 10 days in Afghanistan.  Walking off the plane reminded me of arriving in Bangkok after visiting Burma last year - it felt like you had just came from another world.  No dust, modern buildings, and everywhere was lit up.

Last full day in Kabul

Today was my last full day in and around Kabul....for this trip anyway ;->

It wasn't quite as manic as some others but we stopped in past a couple of design houses in town before heading to Istalif, an hour north of Kabul. We went there to see some pottery projects to improve the quality of the pottery in the area for the export market.

I have a whole bunch of photos I'd like to show on this blog and on my site but I'm just so tired in the evenings now that all I can do is download my images, order room service, then crash out. 

Tomorrow is our first slow start in 10 days and we are getting a car to take us through Chicken Street in Kabul (the old 'hippy street' from the Silk Road travels) on route to the airport, then it's destination Dubai.

I'm a bit sad to leave here as there is so much to follow up, and so many stories to find out more about, however it will be interesting to see if I can make my images work for me when I get back, and I am desperate for a bit of a chill out.

I have one full on day visiting galleries in Dubai, but the rest of the time there I can see myself just chilling by the pool and recuperating!  Usually I'd say this would be a waste of time, but it's been a hectic 10 days here.

I moved out of the fort the same day where most of the residents were woken up by a couple of rockets going off in a nearby area - but nothing too much to worry about (if that doesn't sound too mad to say!).

Kabul City Tour 2

We headed out towards some coal fired brick factory to tie in with a potential architecture related story.  Yes, I know it sounds a bit weird but it was quite funny as we pulled up at a random kiln outside town in our 4x4 and chatted to the workers through our interpreter, the CEO of Afghan Logistics and Tours.

We then headed back into town to see a really important restored building whose name and purpose I've completely forgotten (it was a manic day).  Then it was time for some lunch at the tour company's office, then some souvenir shopping at an overpriced tourist shop, but one that supports afghan artisans. 

Needless to say it was a bit too easy to get carried away, and I need to buy another bag.  I spied some funky synthetic ones labelled "Kabul Afghanistan 2008" I need to try and get my hands on if we have time.  I managed to avoid a really cool little wooden stool for $20 though which was a miracle.

It was then on to interview a leading American Afghan carpet maker who sells top end carpets to top end clients.  We visited him at his new villa which is nearing completion.  It was one of the most amazing homes I've ever been in, fully built by local material and craftsmen. We saw several of his top end carpets, and all the rooms in the house.  His company if far larger than I realised, employing thousands of families in Afghanistan (if I heard correctly while I was taking photographs), and even selling them through John Lewis in the UK.

After dropping in past the fort to grab our luggage it was a sad goodbye to everyone there.  You have all been fantastic folks and thanks for your hospitality.  Huge apologies to those who I never thanked and said bye to - our day was more manic than we thought.

Tonight and tomorrow is in the downtown 5 star luxury of the Serena Hotel, courtesy of the general manager.  Although it's sad to leave the fort, it's a beautiful place, and a total escape from the madness of Kabul, which lies just outside the hotel walls.  I have the TV on for the first time in 9 days, and I haven't missed it at all.

Anyway, I should've been in bed ages ago as tomorrow is going to be even more manic - plans so far hopefully include :

herbal medicine shop
two designer afghan fashion houses
interview with a magazine editor
potential interview with local media people
and probably lots more I've forgotten!
Unfortunately, the following day is goodbye to Kabul for now, although I wish I was staying longer, but with a more chilled out timetable!

Here's a shot of the bakery in the market I visited the other day :

Military and police presence around Kabul

Like a few other things I've said Kabul is not like you 'expect'...or more likely are lead to believe.  I've hardly ever seen any military presence around the city, certainly not in an obvious manner.  The most arms you see around the city are with the local police force, or private security guards.  It is the first city I've ever been where the police have gun mounts on the back of their pick ups though :

There are a lot of police around the city although the general feeling I get is that they do little to protect the average citizen of Kabul.  Unfortunately I've also heard they are very badly paid for what they are meant to do (I've heard $50 a month, whereas labourers can get more).  There are a load of police checkpoints around although our car has never been stopped by one.

Today I had the most sightings of military but we were travelling out of the city around the airport area, and the industrial parks where the likes of the UN food program have their compounds.  I reckon someone important must have been arriving as the traffic started backing up.

Today was also the first time I've been walked to a toilet by an armed guard!  I got a bit too hydrated before leaving the fort this morning so we had to stop at a petrol station for some light relief.

How not to do business - the Afghan way

Yesterday we tried to interview a successful Afghan businesswoman who has just been through some difficulties with her partner.  When we turned up at the factory gate in the car, the guards (obviously armed, like most guards here) locked the gate in front of us.

We slowly discovered they were employed by her ex business partner, and they never allowed guests in (well, not us!), and weren't letting the businesswoman out either!  The police were called who turned up like the afghan version of 'Chips' (the old US drama) but on a pretty clapped out motorbike.  Instead of pistols, one of them carried what I can only imagine was an AK-47.  No hassle at all though, it just turned into one of those meetings you have to expect in this parts of the world.  We left with no interview, (apart from half of one through the mesh gate) and no photographs of this entrepeneur looking to rebuild her business.  We did have an 'entertaining' chat with the head of the security guards....who then said he was 'just a production manager' when quizzed harder.

'No-one can get by this gate without a pass'

'How do we get a pass?'

We then got told we had to go to head office but he only had an address, not a number.  We were then told a number of the head of the company.  We were then told that actually he couldn't give us permission, we had to phone their lawyer.  When asked for the lawyers number we got the original phone number given again.  Bizarre.

No Kabul City Wall Walk for me!

I had hoped to do a walk along the Kabul city walls early one morning before I left, but unfortunately plans have been cancelled.  Unfortunately some foreigners were shot at by people wearing Afghan police uniforms the other morning.  This is the only report of an incident I've heard while I've been in Kabul so it's a real shame as you really can get out and about far more than the media portray.

Kabul City Tour with the Great Game

We were fortunate enough to have a tour of Kabul with the Great Game tour company today, starting at Kabul Museum. We had a brief interview with the director there, then headed to town to tour around the markets in the centre. We stumbled across so many amazing sights there, and we were also a bit of a site for the locals. We spent some time in a bakery which was fascinating. I stopped to take a couple of shots of their equivalent of naan bread, and was ushered round the back by someone hanging around. We walked into the bakery's production factory - one guy kneading the dough, throwing it to another who stretched it, who threw it to another to put some patterns on it, who threw it to another to drop it into the kiln. I could see the breads sticking to the sides of the oven before being lifted out on piled up for sale out the front. One of them was tossed to me - straight out the oven and delicious. Here's the only image I have time to post just now as I have to download today's shots before heading out for a while as unfortunately it's my last night at the fort. :-(

Panjshir Valley locals

Here's some of the guys we had lunch with.....

 

 

 

 

 

...and the mujahaddin commander.

Tea with the Mujahaddin Commander, and Buzkashi in Panjshir Valley

Yesterday we went up to Panjshir Valley north of Kabul to see a Buzkashi game. We were so fortunate in that the season started last Friday so this was only the second game of the season, and the first on that pitch.
First of all we went up in the minibus, passing through the Panjshir valley which was home to a great deal of fighting during the Soviet war. Moving along the valley there was a lot of evidence of the fighting with tanks remains in the river, and a downed helicopter.

We ate in a local restaurant having some rice and meat, and were very much the centre of attention but it was an experience that could never have been planned. There was a lot of excitement when I gave a couple of Scottish postcards out to the people.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We headed back to watch the second Buzkashi game in the afternoon. It was fairly obvious we were new spectators as we hadn't realised the game had started and had to let it across the pitch as the horses came running towards us. I still had my camera bag half open on the ground.
When we moved to the side we caused a bit of commotion after complaining to elders about small stones being thrown in our direction from some of the kids. It wasn't a bad atmosphere, it was just a new experience for them, maybe more so that there were a couple of females with us.
We then headed to the other side of the pitch but unfortunately it was down wind of the game, meaning we were covered in the endless clouds of dust thrown up.

 

 

 

 

 

The game is very traditional and involves scoring by transporting a goat carcass around the field, using only their hands. I was amazed they just reached down to grab it - I assumed they'd carry it with something. All the horses charge together in the equivalent of a rugby scrum to get the carcass.

My mate has been speaking to a few mujahaddin men, including a general, so we met the commander by chance at the end of the game. We were then taken up to the general's house for tea which was fascinating. It was one of those travel moments you have to embrace as you could never plan it. We were welcomed to his house and told to treat it like ours, and that we were always welcome whenever we went back. Unfortunately we had to turn down his offer of staying overnight.
Again I handed out one of my postcards of Scottish pictures as a gift which they were thrilled with. It got into one of those cultural exchanges where he felt obliged to give us a gift, despite giving us all his hospitality and his impromptu tea and cakes for eight visitors. We were assured if we went back and got in touch, we could have lunch, be guests in a better box to watch the game from and more.
What a superb day. We never got the chance to see the tank graveyard as it was almost dark when we left, but really that's nothing compared to the experience we had.

Night out at Gandamack Lodge, Kabul

We managed a couple of beers at Gandamack Lodge after playing frisbee the other night.  We're off there again tonight for what is meant to be a big night in Kabul, although it won't be too late for me as it's a 0730 departure tomorrow to head north.  Here's a picture of their traditional guns for sale in the hotel foyer, and a picture of Rich, my friend who is hosting me here just now.

Another day in the Fort

I've spent another day in the Turquoise Mountain Foundation restored 19th century fort.  We're not staying here because of any security situation but we find it hard to leave here as there are so many fascinating artisans and craftsmen working for the organisation, with so many interesting stories to tell.

Traffic is town was apparently pretty horrendous as well as some streets were blocked off due to a funeral for some of the Parliamentarian's killed in the bomb in northern Afghanistan a couple of day's ago.  Apart from the traffic, you know something important is going on in town when you hear and see the helicopter gunships flying around.

Despite some of the tragic stories we hear from some of the people here, it is really refreshing to hear stories of hope and encouragement for the future in Afghanistan rather than the war led stories you always hear back home.  There are so many people here happy to see the real possibility of employment and earning a reasonable living for a change after the constant bombardment and tragedy of the previous few decades of war.  A recurring story is how many of them have fled to other countries, in particular Pakistan, and are happy to be able to return to their homeland.  The population of Kabul was reduced to around 4-500,000 during the wars and is now between 4 and 5 million.

Tomorrow we are escaping Kabul for the day to head a few hours north to Panshir Valley.  We also hope to see a traditional game of 'buzkashi', which is erm, a bit like polo, but using a goat or calf carcuss!  On the way there is also a tank graveyard where I hope to take some shots if we can get close.

Kabul Market

This is a quick snapshot of the marketplace in downtown Kabul.  It's an amazing marketplace of craftsmen and sellers.

First full day in Kabul

Just a short update just now.  All is well in Kabul.  I've tried to send a few text messages back home so if you haven't got them, it's going to be a network problem.  I've only received a couple of replies.

I had a superb day being toured around by people from the NGO we are visiting, explaining the training of locals in traditional building techniques, and a tour around a downtown restoration project where locals are almost fully employed restoring their traditional community buildings.  The man on the left was restoring a roof.

 

We then had a quick walk around the riverside market which was jut a hive of activity with all sorts of old crafts being performed such as a traditional blacksmith.  This image was one of a few guys sitting around drinking tea.  It was almost impossible to walk past them without taking their pictures as they insisted.

 

We finished up late so went straight to the US Embassy to play frisbee.  With the 1800m altitude (never mind the lack of exercise) affecting me greatly.  A quick meal and a few beers knocked off a very long and very tiring day, but one of the best experiences I've had in a long time.  I was in my element taking photographs all day, and the locals all wanted theirs taken, and to see it afterwards.

I'll write more soon, but I had a fantastic day yesterday.

Pre-Kabul

It was interesting during the build up to the Kabul trip.  It had been quite funny how many of my mates said "Kabul?  In Afghanistan?  Are you mental?" followed two seconds later by "I'm quite jealous actually."

I got my first commissioning letter from a magazine with me named as photographer, and my invitation letter from the organisation we will meet out there.

I organised the flights for myself and my journalist friend (who was on another job in Croatia) which involved an online reservation for the Dubai - Kabul flights, only to be met with a page saying I had to pay them in full to an office within 12 hours....then a couple of Skype calls to Afghanistan and Dubai....then completion with an agent in London who said the 'situation is getting better as there have been 15 people executed as punishment this week', just before telling me the total price which never reflected the exchange rate whatsoever (£40 more than stated on the webpage).  I then got me his brothers number if we wanted safe, cheap accommodation there, and a driver.

Of course offices being offices, it took my employer 2 weeks to confirm the time off despite the fact I was only being curteous as it had all been cleared at interview stage.  Needless to say the Dubai flights went up £100 in the process, and everything was booked only three weeks prior to departure.

We hummed and hawwed whether it was worth paying the £185 extra for two weeks worth of war cover.  Was it really that dangerous?  We doubted it, but being Kabul virgins, we took it anyway.  This unpaid for trip was rapidly becoming a very expensive 'portfolio building' trip for me.  Even worse by loosing my I.T. contract, which of course, was the deciding factor in me being able to afford to splash the cash, despite me wanting to go since the idea was mentioned to me.

I never did too much research before leaving but enjoyed the lively journalists and photojournalists chats from bizarre destinations at Lightstalkers.org

The few days before I left I read a bit more about Kabul, and would be lying if I said there wasn't a few moments when I thought 'WTF am I going there for?'.  Not helped with the odd panic phone call from my girlfriend during the news :

"Are you watching it?  There's been 75 NGO workers kidnapped, and a bomb on the airport road".  My chin dropped, then I thought "Really?  Are you sure?"

A quick Google confirmed nothing had happened and I later realised the news were summarising past events due to a court case or something that was going on.

My overriding thoughts before going to Kabul tomorrow is I hope I am not disappointed by the experience.  I'm sure it'll be like any other big city in the area, just with a lot more small arms in full view.  I'm looking forward to meeting all the characters that have been described to us from returning artisans who fled Kabul during the reign of the Taliban, to leading fabric designers and craftsfolk.

I just hope my pictures do them justice!

Destination Kabul - in transit in Dubai

I've been meaning to write much more about the build up to Kabul but I've been busy courting the many disasters detailed below.

 

I arrived in Dubai last night and got to my mate's around 1.45am.  I've got some great friends scattered around - this is the 3rd or 4th time I've entered a property abroad where the keys have been left for me, and I've never been to the place before.  I took a liberty and 'borrowed' a beer to celebrate my arrival.

Sitting writing this in the back garden with some loose bottoms and a t-shirt, I've decided that today will be a day of R&R before the hectic upcoming days.  I had a potential offer of a visit to the Ritz with my journalist friend but have heard nothing back.  I have a friend to meet tonight.  Jumeirah beach is just 10 mins down the road by car but the pool is 10 feet away. 

Maybe the sightseeing can wait til my return in 11 days.

It's been a mad few weeks of disasters

So, get back from travel, get back to the 'real' world, get a job, get my head down for a few months then re-evaluate.

At least that roughly what my 'plan' was.  Or as close to a plan as I could ever get.  I bought a car to be mobile (being back in Scotland, and not being able to take off to the hills kills me!), got a contract yet in two weeks the following happened :

• My contract was terminated and I was walked out the office due to a project suspension
• The car I bought had exhaust and tyre problems
• I won a compact camera and dropped it on its first trial outing as a mate bumped into me at the end of the night
• My '3 months in for repair' laptop was still giving me some grief
• And various other things I choose to forget...!

So now, my initial invoices for work will probably not cover my recent expenses, and I am off to Afghanistan and Dubai for two weeks which will hold out the real job search until just around the time of the pre-xmas lull!

But, it could be worse.  I am sitting here in Dubai in my friend's back garden on wifi, about to jump in the pool.