Cooking and cycling

On our second full day in Ho Chi Minh we went to organise a trip to the tunnels and one of the big temples quite a bit out of town. Instead we ended up booking a trip where you cycled through the city to the outskirts, joined a local family to help cook lunch, then went out fishing on a boat in the afternoon.

Ho Chi Minh traffic :


Cycling through the city was the best part - we headed across the mad roundabouts in the main part of the city during rush out traffic, which is mayhem. If you stop and start you're more likely to end up roadkill, but if you move across slowly and confidently, you're sorted. Unfortunately the rest of the tour fulfilled our doubts when booking. We met up with a local family, in their tenement house, went to the market with them (always interesting) and watched our snake head fish get battered on the head with a wooden stick (hey at least it was fresh), then went back to the apartment to cook lunch.

While lunch was cooking we ended up playing cards with the tour guides for the best part of an hour introducing them to cheat and various other games. It was quite a laugh but not really what you want to pay money on a tour for. In the afternoon we eventually left to go to some crappy restaurant place where we tried to catch fish which you can then cook. The setting was a really naff local's restaurant with manmade pools of water, with eating platforms over the middle of them. We could hardly leave quick enough, but too late for me to make the post office to get rid of more of my gear! Not exactly the best use of $15 in Asia. I think the companies other tours of the Mekon g Delta would be quite good, they just didn't seem to nail this one.

In the evening I spent most of the time drinking, eating, and trying desperately not to overload myself with a selection of the excellent counterfeit photocopied books....

Local kids in the park :

Lazy Day, Exciting Ride

After the excitement of getting to a new place yesterday I couldn't crash easily so decided to watch a very high quality copy of the film Inside Man until I fell asleep.
Ciara from home met me today in Ho Chi Minh City on her way back from her travels in NZ. I decided to take it easy heading to the airport and add a bit of excitment to it for once I answered 'Yes' to the oft repeated phrase 'Moto Sir?'
No bags on my back for once, I needed to enjoy it. Yes I need to go to the airport. How quick can you do it?' 'Oh 20 minutes or less I think'.
This was more than ample time, but I said 'Yes, fast as you can I'm in a hurry'.

What a ride! We were whizzing in and out of traffic, scooters etc like...well, like whatever weaves in and out of stuff quickly. We got there in 15 after cutting up sidestreets, across petrol stations etc.

I decided not to get a moto back - a bit harsh an introduction on your first day in Asia maybe. It was funny watching Ciara's reaction of the hustle and bustle of Asian cities, this one being a cracking example. I realise how used I've got to life out here, handing out 'advice' here there and everywhere.... no, don't stop when they honk, no don't run across the road, do any of them you'll be hit - walk across slowly and you'll be fine (makes it sounds worse than it is, but there are just so many scooters around!).

We went to a couple of markets, but no live skinned frogs, turtles, fried cockroaches or anything at these ones so an easy intro.

Tomorrow we're binning he tunnels and the war museums to cycle to the outskirts of a city and visit a family and have something to eat after visiting the markets, then I'll start to head North through the country on Friday.

My world map so far - 36th country - GET IN!

..but so much more to see and do - even in the ones I've been in!

Bangkok's for pussies - get thee to HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon)

Again, new country, what's the fuss? I got in to Ho Chi Minh City today, was looking at the map on the way into town (in that kinda anal way outdoors people do), then the bus man said, yeh you're hotel's back there, but we're stopping just up here. 5 mins later after almost ignoring the guy touting a guesthouse (he was touting mine but I was wary of that scam of having three of the same guesthouse names on the same street), he walked me to the door, and within 10 minutes of getting off, I was checked into my room, admiring the hustle and bustle of a new city.

HCMC (as I'll now call it - saves typing) is the most bustling city I've been to in SE Asia so far. Bustling, busy (some may say frantic) and alive. Crossing the road - no big deal, just look at the 1 billion oncoming scooters and stride confidently (but slowly) across the road. I've been walking around here like I'm walking on clouds - new city, new buzz. I rapdily overcame that new 'fear' of entering a new country. Like Cambodia, everyone warns...'oooh, you started in Laos, you may not like Vietnam'. Everything's here, and all withing spitting distance.

Knock off DVDs and CD's, great arts and handicrafts, camera shops willing to open your camera to see if they can fix it, tourist tat, moto drivers wanting to sell you anything, girls wanting to do the same (although I'm oblivious to this), and young teenagers walking around with a selection of the best 'reproduction' books. There's sports shops, and even an electronics emporium that would blow some of Bangkok's best out of the window. I can't remember seeing a couple of hundred large screen plasmas, umpteen mobile phones, cameras and video camera on the same floor before.

I sat down at a very touristy restaurant, ordered up a Vietnamese dish, then sat there delighted by the vibe, and the fantastic selection of classic tunes ringing in my ear, every track saying to me 'oh shit, who sang that one again?'. I started speaking to the waiters, who asked about Scotland, and my thoughts on Vietnam. I wish I had a copy of Culture Shock! Vietnam when the one of the waiters said 'You have a nice body, do you go to the gym each day?'. He was only about 20 and I wasn't sure if this was normal behaviour....

Yes, Vietnam will be way too rushed. In seventeen days I have to fly to Bangkok. I always get the rose tinted glasses in a new big city as well, but what a buzz.

Good Morning Vietnam! (I've been waiting to be able to say that!). Country number 36.

Did you stay at Okay Guesthouse? (The return of the camera lens)

So I was on a dive boat chatting to another punter I had met hours earlier as we boarded the boat, our home for two days. I was being asked which camera and lenses I have....

'well I've got a 28-135mm, 70-300mm and I have a 10-22mm but I couldn't find it yesterday when I was looking in my bag for something. I was leaving the room in Sihanoukville and was bitching to Udai when I couldn't find it. I'm not so sure this item will turn up like the others but I'm convinced it's not in my bags and I've no idea where I could have lost it or had it stolen. Last time I used it was the temples at Seam Reap. Really weird.'

'Were you staying at the Okay Guest House in Phnom Penh?'

'Yeh.'
'I was there and found a lens under the bed in my...'
'No way, that's where I put my laptop when I went out, room 212?'
'...room, and I handed it into reception. They seemed to think you were coming back after Sihanoukville. Yeh room 212.'
'Jeeez, I can't believe that, I hope they still have it, man I could kiss you, I didn't think I'd have left it sitting behind in the temples, I just couldn't work it out.'

'Phew, that was lucky - how much was that worth - a couple of hundred dollars?'
'Erm, kinda. More like $1100. Man I love you, thanks for being so honest!!!!'

'I've got a Nikon, not Canon. They seemed good in there I'm sure they'll have it.' (I kinda used my poetic licence on this line)

After a day out of reception, I called them up on my return to land. I'm now back at the Okay Guest House. They didn't reserve a room like I asked. They couldn't find the lens, but asked me to ask the other guy when I got up for the bus.

I left for dinner.

'Sir - room 212 wasn't it. Is this it?'

What a frickin' coincidence. You always bump into folk on this typical tourist trail, but to be on a dive boat with someone who moved into your room, in another town, who found your camera lens.....

Thanks Robin! I love you!

Diving Liveaboard - Yeeeeh!

Sihanoukville beach, Cambodia :


Had a great laugh on Friday in Sihanoukville, after having a bit too heavy a welcoming session on the Thursday night with the guys I met on the bus from Phnom Penh. Once the hangover cleared after a sleep on the beach, I spent a few hours with the kids selling braclets and stuff on the beach.

Others may call them hawkers, but they're a great laugh if you just take it as part of the experience. I had a few bracelets made in front of me as he listened to Black Eyed Peas "My Humps" (his request) about 15 times, laughing and singing along to it. His mate was listening to my MP3 as well and looked quite a dude with my reflective Oakleys and headphones in.

Kid making a bracelet for me :


Kids mate with my shades, listening to my tunes :


My Cambodia flag bracelet completed (the Scottish one was too hard for him - he tried for an hour - poor bugger) :



I then decided to scrap a motorbike trip and blow a couple of hundred dollars with Dive Cambodia
doing an overnight liveaboard to the local islands. While the diving wasn't quite up to Sipadan standards it was 5 nice dives with a night dive as well. The last three (including my night one) were the most relaxed dives I've had - bouyancy, control, etc spot on, being able to hover and look into any spot I wanted.

Man, it's a hard life :



It was a great bunch on the boat as well so one of them is splitting my room costs and we're all meeting up in an hour for beers with the instructors. Half the group were doing their PADI Open Water - on a liveaboard!!!

Some of the more photogenic dive crowd :



Tomorrow I head back to Phnom Penh reluctantly, and will have no time to explore there before I head to Ho Chi Minh the following morning.

Sunset from the boat, 4 hours from the mainland :

Sihanoukville

Made it through Phnom Penh and to Sihanoukville, but will type up blogs later.... struggling to find somewhere to use my USB drive...

Bike trip around Battambang

Shortly after my morning cooking class today I headed off on a moto to see Phnom Sampeu (Sahm-Bpoh). Phnom Sampeu is a temple on a hilltop 12kms from Battambang with killer views of the endless flat paddy field landscape as far as the eye can see. Unfortunately the Khmer Rouge also thought it was a killer place, albeit in a much more tragic manner as they used to drop people into the caves hoping they'd die on impact to save a bullet (but they hardly ever did), or starve them there. There are remnants of skulls and bones which is tragic and reminded me of my interesting but gruesome trips to Auschwitz. This trip is also detailed in my Adventure Cambodia book. More of this to come in Phnom Penh I guess.

I managed to get clear views of the hill by Pailin on the Thai border, although the picture below is following the main road back to Battambang.
I also got chased down the steps by a Long Tailed Macaque Monkey. Almost four months in Borneo and the closest I got to Macaques were across the river, here I could touch out and reach them (also some some near Angkor Wat).

A Macaque scratching his nuts. Or something. :

Rural Cambodia starts within kilometres of town as you immediately hit dirt roads that form the main highways - yet again I was wishing I was riding a Honda Baja myself. Again, everyone was super friendly, waving at you before you even caught sight of them, kids shouting hello and goodbye. I could have spent all day stopping to take photos.

On the way we managed to catch a local cock fight where the winner got the share of $8 bet by the locals. We left before it even came close to a winner which is probably quite as well as apparently they cut the head and suck the blood. This one wasn't as viscious as I've heard about though as they sometimes have razors attached to the cock's feet.


I made a young girl cry again though. There was a killer picture of a girl holding up her younger sister, it was ok for me to take a picture, but as soon as I got closer with my camera the younger one balled her eyes out, and I forgot my balloon trick. They're not used to seeing many (if any) foreigners here.

We then headed to the bamboo train on an extremely twisty railtrack, and caught a superb sunset over the lush green paddy fields while being taken back 12km to Battambang

I was a bit frustrated with the camera here as I know I couldn't do the picture justice. I now know why it takes over 11 hours to get to Phnom Penh on the train, and similar from Phnom Penh (which takes 4 hours on the bus). Locals utilise the track with makeshift 'carriages' that can be disassembled within a minute when you approach an oncoming carriage.

I've booked my bus to Phnom Penh in the morning, so it's time for a new destination.

Sunset over rice paddies :

Wee boy, with a shot that doesn't give the sunset justice :

Money for old cocks

Me at The Smokin' Pot Cooking School, Battambang :




Battambang has been saved! I had a nice relaxing evening eating at the hotel and watching Crash in my room (great film). Although it probably sounds a bit sad if you read this sitting at home, but it was a great comfort as it's only the second film I've watched since June, and the first one was at Raleigh fieldbase, and was crap.

I went cooking this morning and out with a moto guide this afternoon. I had a great cooking class today - it was similar to a Thai class last year, but this time I went to the market, which was a real eye opener. All kinds of things were for sale - insects, bettle nuts, the staple ingredients, frogs, live fish, snake type fish, live (and cooked) turtles, a cow's cock (described to us as a "cow's snake, if you know what I mean") and an extremely varied selection of fruit. The guy from The Smokin' Pot restaurant was great at explaining stuff, even the fruit which weren't part of the course. We took quite a while going through the market as it was a larger than usual class.

The market should be visited on the first day of training for a Health and Safety Executive graduate trainee. Fish were being cut up in front of you, they were jumping out their bowls, fish heads were all over the place, and there was a lot of marinated meat 'that was good for up to 7 months'. A couple in the group even saw a skinned frog, still gasping on for its last breaths. When the market seller saw their surprise, she apparently gave it a good thud over the head.

Fish anyone?

Who could refuse buying someone from this guy?

We started off with a traditional Khmer Chicken Amok Curry, then a beef stir fry, and a sweet fish soup. Some of the group then tried their first Durian fruit, and I got stuck into a 'custard apple' and 'milk fruit' (see picture below, left and right respectively).
Market trading :

A "Cow's Snake" ;-> :


Shortly after I headed off on a moto to see Phnom Sampeu (Sahm-Bpoh) but I'll stick that in another post with pictures.

Phnom Penh

I arrived in Phnom Penh today after another unexpected evening.

I went out around 10pm to try and find some decent food after some internet time. About 11.30pm two dutch guys asked if I wanted to join them as they sauntered in a bit boozy. I had planned on a very quiet one but instead ended up having a few beers with them, then it dwindled to two of us as one headed back. There was a screech of cars coming round the bend, which skidded to a halt across the road. Everyone fell over themselves to open the door, included the local down and out lookalike who just asked us for cigarettes and a squaff of beer. We then spent the next half out wondering who these guys were, but were left with the mystery. We thought it may be a high up military guy or politician or mafia, but the Dutch had ended up drinking with a military dude the night before and taken to a karaoke bar (he even pulled out the guys cellphone and address which was some military arms unit). I was offered a potential lift to Phnom Penh with them and the dude but they were unsure whether to accept it or not yet. We headed back to the hotel to find his mate participating in his own personal holiday adventure of eating as many of the weird local 'delicacies' as he could - he was chomping on a 'pregnant egg' (cooked egg with bits of chick inside). I refused. I also refused the roasted ant on offer.

Anyway, I ended up on the bus and was chatting to a local getting some good insight into the country. After a few hours though I needed a rest from informing people again that yes, Scottish people spoke English, trying to explain the UK, and my own worst enemy I even tried to explain the role of the Scottish Parliament to him... I also ran out of listing of price of property, oranges, potatoes, rice, cars, cigarettes, alcohol etc to demonstrate to him that yes, we had a good quality of life, but not necessarily any happier than them, and n, we weren't all millionaires despite our holidays. I pretended to go to sleep.

My Phnom Penh reception was as expected. Being one of only two westerners on the bus, the enslaught of local hotel touts and tuk tuk drivers even started knocking on my window before I even considered picking up my water bottle. As I embarked the bus I felt like what I imagined a fed up rock star would, pushing my way through them all to get to my bag on the bus. From the crowd I heard a lone voice, slightly clearer than the rest, despite him also holding up the compulsory laminated A4 hotel card :

"Sir, I can see you want to go somewhere specific. How about I take you on my tuk-tuk for $1 wherever you want to go, and you can have a look at your book once you get a seat?".

I had a quick flashback to my old travelling buddy Jenny's excellent advice : "When we used to arrive somewhere, we usually went for a beer before we looked for accommodation so we could chill out a bit", but there was no contest.

"I'll be there in a second."

Within 90 minutes I was checked in to a pretty naff room (but I can never be arsed looking around as really you're hardly ever in it), and on my way to S-21, the old Khmer Rouge prison. To be honest you could never describe these as good must see sights, however it wasn't nearly as haunting as Auschwitz, but there were several chilling stories there too. I struggled to keep awake during the documentary as my lack of sleep and the overheated room with overstrained air-con made me loose another two litres in sweat.

Tomorrow I'm off to the Killing Fields, market, and to fight my guilty conscience of a strong desire to help out some corrupt soldiers and shooting a big gun on a firing range....

"You know if you start buying from me, you'll get a girlfriend". Sieam Reap

No-one told me Siem Reap was beautiful. No-one told me Siem Reap was clean,landscaped, with a lovely river lined with trees and benches. No-one told me the Cambodians are as friendly as the Laotions (I think that's how they are referred). No-one told me Cambodian food was tasty.

I'm sure all that's written down somewhere, and some people have told me these things, but it never stuck in my mind.

Siem Reap street scene :




Siem Reap, at least in the centre, is chock full of french style colonian shophouses, it's well paved, I felt safe walking around at night, and everyone is friendly. Yes, you get 'hassled' a bit more to buy knock off books, bracelets and postcards, but it's all done in such a friendly way. There's clearly been a lot of cash pumped in as plush hotels litter the roadside. Maybe the capital isn't as friendly but I'll hang on to this for a bit longer.

We 'did' the temples in a day, maybe not giving them justice, but doing it in such a manner we felt satisfied and not templed out.

Yesterday I had to laugh. Two young girls approached me trying to offload some postcards and books :
1st girl : "Hello sir, you buy postcard from me?"
"No thank you I don't want any postcards"
2nd girl : "Hello sir, you buy bracelet from me?"
"No thank you I don't want a bracelet"
"Sir, you buy bracelet for wife"
"I don't have a wife"
"Sir, you buy bracelet for girlfriend"
"I don't have a girlfriend" (I thought saying that would stop them!)
"Sir, you know why you don't have a girlfriend, you don't buy ladies anything. You buy from me you get girlfriend"

You have to laugh, but 'hassled'? I think not.

If you don't that, you get something like this :

"Sir, where you from?"
"Scotland"
"I live Edinburgh. Edinburgh is capital of Scotland. Scotland has five million people. Scotland next to England, all part of UK. England has 65 million people. Capital of UK is London. UK is in Europe. You speak French? Bonjour. Cava?"
"Tres Bien, et vous" (ecxuse my poor French!)
"Moi Aussie, Tres Bien. You speak any other languages Sir. Paris is capital of France......"

Quality.

I've also got more used to the haggling thing as well,to the point where yesterday we got a tuk-tuk. "How much to Green Town Guest House?"
"Two dollar"
"No way, Two dollar? How about 2000 Riel?" (about 50 cents)
"Yes, ok, get in".

Same for knock off books.

Siem Reap is a great place. A lot of culture on your doorstep, and I sat in a beer garden surrounded by butterflies while typing emails on my laptop.

"You buy from me I give you peace and quiet". Welcome to Cambodia

Yesterday I reluctantly left Laos after almost 4 weeks (seems like much longer thank God!) and flew to Siem Reap in Cambodia. I met an English girl called Jenny on the flight and kinda decided to hang out for a couple of days..largely based on the fact that none of us were that arsed about seeing Angkor Wat and the temples, and kindof felt we had it on our agenda because it was one of those things that you had to do. I had semi-joked to people last week that I could (in my mind) go to Cambodia and not 'do' Angkor Wat.




Angkor Wat :


Anyway, what's all the fuss about Cambodia, or maybe it hasn't hit us yet. People here are so friendly, yes you get the odd bit of 'hassle' for stuff, but jeez, it's talked up from what we've seen so far. We got moto guys into town yesterday, whizzed around a few guesthouses and got settled at a place a wee bit (10 mins walk) out of town. We then bumped into a British guy during this and went with him on the hot air balloon overlooking the temples ($15, ten minutes, not worth it) and the sunset over Siem Reap.

I decided last night I liked Siem Reap - it's like a pubbed up version of Luang Prabang, obviously with a lot of cash being pumped into keeping the place historic, tidy and attractive to well heeled tourists. And for Asia, I haven't even smelled one open sewer yet!

Pleasantly, we went to a few of the temples today, and had a great day. Initially we buzzed 30km out of town on the moto's, then came in and did the normal ones, hoping we'd cover them in a day. As it turns out we were both pleasantly surprised that we quite enjoyed our day on the bikes. I could probably do another day but would probably feel templed out by then so I think I'll leave it at a single day's visit. Unfortunately I left it too late to speak to the guys at hiddencambodia.com about a dirt bike tour, so think I'll be missing that out. :-( The main reason I did my bike test!

I had great fun practising my bargaining today while waiting for lunch outside one of the temples. A girl tried to punt bracelets did actually say "You buy from me I give you peace and quiet". I then bought one for a third of the price, and a book for less than a third.

"Peace and Quiet" book bracelet seller :


Anyway, wasn't planning on doing this tonight, so more tomorrow maybe, and maybe with some pics. A lazy day planned tomorrow hitting some fresh tunes on my MP3 player from Boom Boom 'records' in town, and 'planning' my time in Cambodia...or at least when I'll leave here. Jenny leaves Monday for Phnom Penh, and I leave then too but for Battambang.

Me stepping down in Angkor Wat :


Me in Ta Prohm (the Tomb Raider one) :


Jenny took this, I wish I did - a cracker :


Beng Thom :



A sheep for the Aberdeen readers :

Don Det, '4000 Islands', Southern Laos

Don Det sunset from accommodation restaurant :


I'm writing this offline during my less than 24 hours on Don Det island, around 20km from the Cambodian border, but I was swimming in the river next to Cambodia this afternoon (the Mekong River is the border here). I came down from Pakse this morning, pottered around for a couple of hours deciding my next move then rented a pushbike for a few hours. I cycled through the locals harvesting rice, a wee village, saw the Tat Somphamit (Li Phi Falls) waterfall - very impressive and a hardcore kayakers wet dream.



I then continued for a dip in the river by a beach where you can grab a boat and see some freshwater dolphins. Although that was originally one of my main reasons to come here, I don't have time to try and see them tomorrow. The whole trip only took about an hour each way.

It's soo chilled here. It took me a couple of hours to have a snack and leave my accommodation (helped by listening into and chatting to a guidebook author). I watched a cracking sunset over the islands from the restaurant about 10 feet from my bamboo shack (no fan! Could be an 'interesting' hot sleep!). It's still not peak season and everyone just does what I did,the odd river trip, or lounge on hammocks and not do very much. I've not seen as many stars in the sky since...well, I guess not that long ago during a powercut in Myanmar.

I was reworking my Cambodia plans when I arrived here and, despite being so close to the border, I have changed my plans to reluctantly skip Kratie (more potential dolphin spotting) and head back to Pakse (a couple of hours in the bus) then fly to Siem Riep for $86, probably missing out Kratie altogether. Not ideal, but with only around 12 days in Cambodia (yikes!) it saves me doing a long bus journey loop to see the other places I hope to - Siem Riep, Battambang, Phnom Penh (I may remember how to spell this once I'm there), then down to Soukhanville for the beach and hopefully a dive. I must confess that I'm finding it harder to get timing information for Cambodia from my alternative guidebook 'Adventure Cambodia'. I bought this due to the vast amount of motorbike touring information but doesn't look like that will be an option now.

Unfortunately to catch the organised buses I have to get the boat at 11.30am, so Pakse will seem like time just waiting for something to happen as there's not much to do there, but I've a 6.30am check in the following day.... I'm sure there must be local buses but I reckon the cartel of tour operators wouldn't give away this information so easily!

Don Det boat landing :

Baja Boy (or should that be Darren's Motorcycle Diaries)

If you can't be arsed reading this long post - jump to the bottom, it's quite funny (erm, I think)

Due to timing I wasn't 100% sure whether to stay in Pakse, or take a very easy option of jumping on a small bus at the station, going for breakfast and being taken down to Dong Det at 4000 Islands by 11am. I bumped into Adam who hung off the back of a sawngthaew with me from Muang Ngoi Neua to Luang Prabang last week and he was heading straight down with a mate. Amazingly, when I said I wasn't getting the bus, the saleperson told me I never needed a tuk-tuk into town as it was only a few minutes walk - excellent service.

I went to the Lankham Hotel in town to enquire about renting a Honda Baja 250cc for the day,and maybe trying to make it back for a lift to Don Det in the afternoon, and it seemed feasible...well that was until I said I'd hire the bike and the last sawngthaew then seemed to leave at 1pm rather than the earlier 4pm someone said. Anyway, I had a place to store my back, and had a Honda Baja for the day for $20 so off I went to explore the Bolavan Plateua, home of the wonderful Lao Coffee.

Me and my 250cc Honda Baja :


The road to Ban Beng (the easy start bit) :


I managed to make good time on the bike, alledgedly more horsepower than the previous one I hired in Chiang Rai, and a larger frame (although I reckoned this one needed servicing). I headed out on a route that would take me in a loop from Pakse to Tat Fan waterfall (one of the most impressive in Laos), through Paksong (the home of coffee), to Tha Taeng (or Thateng) to Bang Beng, to Tat Lo waterfall and back to Pakse. Then I hoped to go to Ban Saphai to see some weaving action. One thing that becomes apparent in Laos is the slight variations in place names when translated into English.

I made a great start and stopped off at Tat Fan. I started a hike down towards the bottom of the 120m waterfall on the opposite side of the gorge, but it quickly got way too frickin steep to do on my own (like near vertical where I was heading). I settled with the excellent viewpoint after having some laughs with the car park attendant who made an excellent 'vrroom vrroom' sound every time he looked at 'my' big bike (everything's 50 or 100cc around here). I was desperate to buy some coffee but knew it would end up getting carried around like the tea I still carry from a wee village in Northern Thailand, famous for it's tea. So famous in fact, I've forgotten its name.

Tat Fan waterfall :


I drove through Paksong, fighting the temptation to ride past a coffee plantation sign in the need for speed. At Tha Taeng the road started to get a tad more interesting as it turned into a dust track, riddled with the remains of water trails. Needless to say I loved it, bombing past the locals on the tut tut bikes. I also seemed to drive past every school at break time so got the waves I have grown to love.

I stopped in Ban Beng at a one table 'cafe', the only tourist in sight. Again the schools were coming out, and all the local girls burst into laughter and moved away on the sight of a white man. Until I took my camera out, then they posed and smiled, and laughed at the results. God I wish I spoke Laos. I had a great soup, despite no common words being spoken (except my fluent 'kaap chai' Laos, a traditional chicken dish, which wasn't what I got). That and a Pepsi for $1. Angelica - if you read this I was interacting a wee bit using your SE Asia Phrasebook - cheers!





I then stopped off at Tat Lo and dipped my feet in the water before heading back to Pakse...

HERE'S WHERE THE FUN BEGINS if you skipped the start.

About 20km from town the bike started jumping a bit and I just assumed it was gas, so tried to switch to the reserve, but still the same, but only occassionally - after my Thailand exploit I had a shitload of gas in it, and had only travelled 150km. Anyway, on I went passeing several gas stations. It spluttered. It died.

Shit, not again I thought. I shook the bike, still gas in the tank. How much do these things need to start anyway? I was on the flat. About turned, I pushed the bike, with a gas station only a few hundred metres back. Well, it was a storage unit. No pumps. A couple of hundred metres on from there, there was a station. That was only after the guy at the gate of the storage pointed me back the way I came, then the locals pointed me back the way I had originally been walking.#

Gas in. No start. I shuffled it around a bit, moved the reserve switch, still nothing. The folk sitting around let me use their mobile as my network wasn't working. After a few phone calls, they agreed to come out and see me as I was only 13km from town. Two guys came, nothing. We sat around and spoke about my trip, and I wrote down some English words I used to try and describe it. Again, I said yes, Scotland does speak English, drew the usual UK map, pointed to it in the Lonely Planet, showed him my postcard and said Scotland was next to England but way better (I always use this).

Anyway, the hotel manager came out and tinkered with the same bits the first guys did, made the bike backfire, and sent me on my way on a replacement bike. By this time it was 4pm, too late to do anything, and as I shot away I realised the odometer had been disconnected too,so I headed back to the hotel for some negotiation. Unfortunately the manager had been towed back by the time I quickly tried to gather my locked bag and laptop.

Negotiations started so I quickly teased my passport out of the receptionists hand before started to haggle.

"No, I'm not paying 20,000 kip ($20),it broke down at 1.30pm, there's a shitload (I translated that to Laos) of gas in it"
"But you havea replacement until 7pm"
"Yes but I can't drive it until 7pm, I don't know how much gas is in it, the front lights not working and the odomoter is disconnected"
"20,000 kip, you signed this about gas"
"Yes, but it broke down"

And on it went until they doscounted it by $2, then I laughed and emphasised the petrol. It went on for ages, eventually the manager agreed to call it quits at $10. I then went on about the $11 of gas I put in today, a third of which was probably still in the bike as it was put in after it broke down.

The phone at reception rang. Bingo - right on cue. I picked up my gear, after leaving 80,000Kip (8$) on the table, and was queried as I was about to walk away. I tried to play nice, but after she said "I no rent you bike again tomorrow or next time" I reckoned she had given up.

I walked away having paid just over 4 UKP for the bike, a little bit more on petrol, and decided I better look for another room in town before leaving first thing. I sorted out my bus, then found a room and crashed for a bit. Hot, sweating buckets, and dusty. Bingo. A good day. Like I said, it's not the journey, it's the destination ;-)

Tat Fan waterfall :

I take it all back - VIP buses are good

I caught the 'VIP' bus from Vientiene to Pakse in Southern Laos last night. It wasn'ta great start as I was waiting for around an hour and only got picked up about ten minutes before departure time, crammed into a truck version of a songthingymabob with our luggage. I had to laugh when we arrived at the bus station though as it was small time carnage everyone rushing to get on the bus. There were around 6 of them leaving, and some folk had booked tickets together, or separately assuming they would be on the same bus, and well...they weren't.

I was seriously impressed by the blinged up buses, I've never seen such a colourful parade of double decker buses before - some of them with custom paintjobs, large letters on the front like 'KING OF BUS', and I wouldn't like to be the driver of the bus that never had multicoloured lights on the front, and a flourescent lit engine bay.

I was very impressed with the buses though - very comfy indeed, a small meal served, water, a few sweets and even a face cleaning cloth. The seats reclined, there was a video (although we never got one), about the only thing I could gripe about is the overhead compartments aren't wide enough to fit much more than a tootbrush.

VIP buses. I take it all back (although it was full of bloody tourists....erm, like me)...the only thing that annoyed me was not getting a pic of the blingged up buses.

Big blog update

I've just updated blog stories for the last few weeks, so if you are sitting at work this Monday morning (in the UK) grab a coffee, and page through the last few weeks using the links on the left. All the info on my circuit from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan (Plain of Jars), Nong Khiaw and more are there.

I've ran out of time for a few pics as I need to grab food, supplies, and a shower in the next hour before getting picked up for my Pakse bus!

Pakse Plans

I took a while today (ok, 5 minutes) to think about what I'll do when I get to Pakse. Being in Vientiene confirms it's not cities that really 'pump my nads' to use my expression. If I arrive in time tomorrow I'm going to investigate hiring a motorbike and scooting around the vicinity, and maybe into the Bolaven Plateau for the day,then hope to get a share taxi later in the afternoon to Don Khong island so I can spend a night or two there before crossing into Cambodia.

The Bolaven Plateau is the home of Lao coffee, and it rocks!

Vientiene probably has more going for it that I give it credit for, but it's just a peaceful wee city, with a fair amount of expats meeting in cafes. And more wats and temples, but I'm more than 'watted out' after the last few weeks. If you're religious I'm sure they will mean more to you, but they are all similar after a while.

I went to the post office and airmailed a few early xmas gifts home (god that's so unlike me) while I had a decent opportunity. It's fricking expensive doing that here - $46 for a couple of kilos!!! So that's around 8 times what the things cost, but hey ho.

Anyway, stayed up late writing blog entries and organising my pictures quite a bit so better go and post them! I could do with a whole day doing that here, but I'll move on. It's the first chance I have had to look through them for ages. I also spent a bit of time looking through a couple of volunteering (i.e. cashinteering is a crap term I made up as you have to pay for it) possibilities in Nepal for next October - only for a short term, but yet something else to go through my mind once I raid a bank.

My next post will likely be from Cambodia as internet access more than triples out in the sticks in Laos. But can I keep myself away for that long.

Luang Prabang expansion and Vientiene thefts

If any of you read my posts and like the sound of Luang Prabang, get there quick. There is a plan afoot to expand the airport so it can take more and larger planes. Currently there are only around 70,000 passengers per year arrive by plane. There are also some problems about the ruling not allowign large coaches into the World Heritage centre of Luang Prabang.

The Vientiene Times also reported arrests after a spate of bag thefts by people on motorbikes, so watch out if you are walking around.

Photography Insurance

A couple of people have asked me on the way how I insured my photography stuff when on the move, so here's the link to Photoguard. Taking it out was a painless process, and the cheapest I could find to cover that amount.

Vientiene

I reluctantly left (I say that for almost every place!) Vang Vieng yesterday, at least one climbing day short, never saw any caves, never hired any motorbikes, but I had to head south to get to Cambodia :-( I had breakfast at the organic cafe and was reminded of yet more volunteer opportunities I would have liked to have done, then went back to grab my rucksack instead of heading to the motorbike hire shop!?!

Again, I walked past the tuk tuks dropping off people for the tourist cattle 'VIP' bus, headed to the songtheaw (will have to check the spelling - basically a shared pickup taxi) beepnig it's horn...
"Vientiene?"
"Yes thanks"
Within seconds, a friendly groan from the driver after lifting my pack onto the roof (next to the obligatory motorbike..remember this is just an old toyota pickup, with seats in the back and a roof, with loads of folk piled in), and we were off, me on the back, feet hanging out from the seat - the best view in town, natural aircon, and I could get a tan, and help take the rice off the roof at the stops, and wave back to the locals when they see a white face in a pickup that has the most regular 'VIP' bus service in Laos.

I had a quick wander around Vientiene this afternoon, and decided I'd have a long lie tomorrow. If I was more alert I would have probably just went direct to Pakse tonight. The journey's not as bad as I thought - leave 8pm, in around 6am (ish!) so that's my plan...although as it's a biggie and much more of a biggie on local buses, I'll be trying the $15 VIP option, and will probably just buy it from an agent to get picked up.

Are tuk-tuk drivers the ultimate entrpeneur?

I think there is a training school for tuk-tuk drivers in Asia. I think it goes like this, probably in this order :
Can you load this thing up to the max?
Can you almost drive this thing?
- no? It's ok, they don't go that fast.
Can you barter hard when challenged?

After an induction period they get advanced training so they can offer inroads to other lines of business, all with no shop fronts required?
'You smoke?'
'You want lady?

I'm sure there must be a cut off though as the second and third options are quite common, they're not offered by them all, but usually when the tuk tuk ride is refused. Maybe they think it's not a tuk tuk ride you're after. Purely in the pursuit of market forces training, I was almost tempted to see the price of the third, then ask the lady calling me from the other side of the street in Vientiene directly. I'm curious to see what cut they get....


Oh I left all the oranges I acquired from the Orange truck in Vieng Xai in Vang Vieng, happy they didn't have to be carted round Laos any more without being eaten. I also left a bag of crisps that survived the circuit from Luang Prabang where I bought them, back to there and down to Vang Vieng. And I wonder why I carry so much...

Vang Vieng Day 2

Spent today tubing with a couple of girls I met climbing yesterday, and a girl who took my photo in Luang Prabang (small world, not an exciting explanation!). Reluctantly I plan on leaving tomorrow - I think that's Sunday, not because I'm ready for it, just that I need to time wise to get through southern Laos in a whistle stop fashion! Yesterday I went climbing which was fantastic - great to get out on rock again. Tomorrow I have to fight with my mind as I know two seperate people going on various routes, and I've got to know three of the instructors well, (having drinks and eating at their restaurants) so I'm desperate to hang around and climb with them tomorrow but my schedule dictates otherwise. I'm also a tad jealous of Jane's posting from the Red Cross in Luang Prabang as I want to be doing it too!

A big thanks to Amy, Zoe, Deb(s) and Joe for the last day or so of fun in Vang Vieng! In fact thanks to everyone I've met so far - Israeli, English, Irish, American, German, Argentinian, Spanish, Australian, Polish, New Zealand, French, and last but certainly not least Canadian (and the others I've missed)

I feel like a bit of a spoilt brat being out here and complaining about lack of time, but there's just loads of things I'll miss out on, and I've not been moving fast at all compared to some!

Advice for others travelling - save loads, buy a one way ticket, go on your own, and get people to fit into your plans ;->

Vang Vieng

Sunset at Vang Vieng :

I can't actually decide whether I like Vang Vieng or not....
On one hand it's in an amazing setting with limestone cliffs all around, but on the other hand it's in a shithole of a town, full of bars playing movies, Friends and the Simpsons! But to cater for the backpacker crowd there's also some quite naff bars on the riverside, but it's also pretty relaxing to sit by them and have a beer, one foot dangling in the river. Going price for a joint is 40,000Kip (don't worry mum) and there's a lot of that kicking around. If only Luang Prabang could have the activities like this and not be spoiled it'd be perfect.

But, I went climbing today. I'm don't think it was value for money at $21 but it got me on rock, and I had a good time, despite being defeated by an overhang move, but hey, I haven't climbed since May.

I've not had a chance to write posts about my recent circuit in North East Laos yet. I could easily spend a couple of months in Laos but I've got a real time dilemma about hitting Veitnam by the end of the month, with very limited time in Cambodia so I think I'll have to move south the day after tomorrow, and take a killer overnight 24 hour bus journey south from Vientiene to Pakse, and that sucks! Too little time!


Rope swings at a tubing stop (right next to a climbing area called Sleeping Cave :

A riverside bar at the end of tubing :

Kids at a village on between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng :

Amy on a 6a? :

Me at the crux move on a 6b, before my not-used-to-climbing arms gave up :

Me just before the crux move :

Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

Jeez, I managed to get out of Luang Prabang! It was hard, it has to be said, it was just such a relaxing chilled place. Even at the bus station I was feeling weird about leaving when I said goodbye to Jane in the tuk-tuk as her next stop was the Red Cross to find out about the volunteering I was keen to do. But hey, if it sounds good I can always go back. Time is passing too quickly to stay :-( I also tried to speak to the guy at the adventure tours place about potential opportunities last night, but fate decided it was his night off - the only time he hasn't been there in the dozens of times I've walked past... but this generally sums up my Luang Prabang experience...chilling out and leaving everything until it had to be done.

I found even more places in the last few days that I had meant to check out for days - a really cool place called le'Cinema that has private rooms, with hundreds of DVDs you can pick and watch, and l'etranger book shop which we chilled in for hours yesterday, not even watching the world go by...and eating a damn fine ceasar salad baguette. Even at the night market I found the most tasty, yet sickly sweet coffee I've had for ages, AND I got it to takeaway! The Lao Coffee rocks. Even better when it's served 'Sabah style' (a kickback to my Borneo days) with sweet condensed thick syrupy 'milk'. I also went for a bit of a shopathon at the night market which was great, but has left me carrying even more shit with me - so much so the guys from the bus thought I was moving house.

Today I made the 7.5 hour public bus journey from Luang Prabang down to Vang Vieng. Despite not having taken any of the 'VIP' tourist buses yet I'm convinced the local buses are the best way to travel...take a bit longer as you stop off at some village dropping rice and stuff off, but far less tourists, and you manage to get a better glance at the places you pass through, rather than being surround by 60 tourists gazing out the window at 70km/h. And you meet cooler people. Usually.

Vang Vieng is home of some of the biggest limestone karsts in SE Asia, and I've got a decent room for $3, with a communal balcony out the back overlooking the river. Hopefully I'll get some tubing down the river tomorrow, or a climb ($21!!) and get a better feel for the place. As usual my scenic expectations haven't quite been matched yet, but I'll give it time. I'm off out to post this blog entry, and avoid any happy pizzas, and see if this place is really as much of a backpackerville as it's made out to be.

Leaving Luang Prabang....erm, I think

Jane chilling in l'etranger bookshop while I work out my tie is disappearing :

Jane and I on Phu Si hill, just before sunset :

Well I've finally decided to leave Luang Prabang! It's not easy though. It's been great hooking up with Jane (ex-Raleigh) here but as usual, it's always too short. It's been like having a mate come over and visit. Regular readers (ha, who am I kidding) will know I was keen to try and find out about volunteering with the Red Cross here and Jane is going to do that tomorrow...arrrggg! So I think I'm going to have to hand over the keys to what feels like my new (temporary ) home town to her, and seeth with jealousy over her updates.
Yes I could stay around for another week but I also looked at a calendar today, and as

I thought every time when thinking about a year out - deadlines suck! Need to finish my mini tour to get back to Thailand in mid Dec, and Vietnam in 3 weeks so hardly any time at all! So, sadly it's time to start moving south to Vang Vieng, Vientiene, and hopefully down through souther Laos and '4000 Islands' to cross into Cambodia.....

Sob, sob.... mind you though - could change plans tonight!!

l'etranger bookshop restaurant - the ultimate chill :

Lost in Luang Prabang

At least thats what it feels like. I was meant to collect my passport tonight with Vietnamese and Cambodian visas in it, however its delayed by a day because of holidays so I'm here for another night. Oh well, could be worse as this place is so chilling...maybe too much for me! Some people speak about feeling guilty when they don't do anything if long term travelling - sod that! I love it!

Today was a late start though as I dragged (well, didn't really have to) Jane to the Vietnam Bar last night. As we arrived we were told the place was closed as the police had been round, but after asking nicely we were served by the 'barman'. Due to the circumstances there were only 6 of us in it but as I had a Raleigh Reunion going on with Jane, somehow my hand went into my pocket, brought out some cash and I had purchased a couple of small bottles of Thai Whiskey. That on top of the Lao Lao shots and several beers...well you can imagine. At least this time I made it back ok and was dropped off my the beer scooter (aka tuk tuk)...the last time I was in the Vietnam Bar last week I was dropped off somewhere a group of folk were staying, haggled with the tuk tuk driver as he was charging us too much...so he just hand signalled the direction of my accommodation. Here I was stumbling around unfamiliar familiar streets (yes I meant to type that - it was dark, my vision was poor ;->), trying to find the river - the most f*cking obvious thing in the whole town.

I saw a local wandering around so I went to ask him where my guesthouse was. By this time I had already seen another guesthouse I walked past in 'the book' (Lonely Planet), however I couldn't seem to orientate myself. He pointed a few times, spoke to me in Laos. Much laughter and confusion later he signalled me to follow him down a side street, opened a wooden door, and took me around town on the back of his scooter. Although his English managed to point out every guesthouse we went past, he eventually realised I had one, took me to the river, and I navigated to my guesthouse.

I bumped into one of the tuk tuk crowd the following night. Apparently I was dropped off just round the corner and along the road from my guesthouse.

Here's a cheesy pic of me and Jane in the Vietnam Bar last night.

Don'tcha love the net

Just emailed Jane I met at Raleigh to see if she was in Luang Prabang. Emailed her at 4.30pm with vague instructions where and when to hook up if she happened to be in town (I knew she was in the area last week), stayed online too long, and got a repply at 6pm to say 'yeh, see you at 7pm'.

The joys of travel.

Another month, another camera bites the dust..(literally!) ...and stones

I've trashed my new camera! I've only had it for 4 weeks (or since I was in KL, whenever that was). I was standing at Phonsavan bus station, and had been for 4.5 hours waiting on our bus in the bloody cold night (seriously - proper cold, and who sent their fleece home?! Thank god for Merino wool!). Our bus came along, the 6 of us (the rest I just met at the station) wandering how we were going to get on. We had all night in this thing, and it was stacked to the gunnels with people and goods, and there were at least 4 motorbikes on the roof, along with the rest.

We were sitting there taking pictures before we jumped on, and my Canon S80 leaped out of my hand, the lens extended. After that it refused to play ball, the lend neither retracting or fully extending, meaning yet again, I'm without a small camera!

Arrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Back in Luang Prabang

It's been a long time since I had close contact with a female, but today I got all hot and sweaty with a local. I gently caressed her bottom with my foot while her face were in my private parts, and every so often we would glance at each other to check we were both still ok, her hands moving around my legs at various intervals.

Unfortunately it was because I was one of the last ones on the pick up back to Luang Prabang, so here was around 20 folk piled on a share taxi (converted pick up) back to Luang Prabang. I was hanging off the back standing up with some other guys, there were plenty of locals crammed in the back, and this lass was dangling from the rear of the pick up. I was standing up there for almost 4 hours, but it was the best place to see what we were passing through. Once my nervousness got over the fact that the van started leaning as we went around corners, the odd skid from the driver etc, it was a pretty good journey considering.

I'm back in Luang Prabang after a quick circuit around Phonsavan (Plane of Jars), Sam Neu, Vieng Xia, Nong Khiaw and Mon Neu. It almost feels like coming home, but I think I'll be leaving on Wednesday morning after my passport comes back (hopefully) with Cambodian and Vietnam visas in it. Half the last few days (I think I left last Wednesday) have been spent on some form or transport or other. These included a pickup, full and empty buses, bikes, boats, and a fruit truck (we kinda missed the last share taxi back from the caves at Vieng Xai so had some negotiating to do. It was either pay the fruit truck guy and help ourselves to his oranges, whilst dangling off the back, or pay the guy who tried to rip us off - we had no choice and a great story).

Anyway, I'll write more soon, but that's all just now folks!

Muang Ngoi Neua to Luang Prabang

As you can imagine we were up for the first boat leaving at 9.30am, happy in the knowledge we'd catch a bus that connected with the boat in the morning - information gratefully received from the aussie couple involved in discussions the night before.

As we arrived around 10.30am we had a pretty mad dash to cross the bridge, rescue our luggage, settle our bill and dart back to grab a bus. As always seems to happen, when we were heading up the street from the boat a sawngthaew driver looked out at us and shouted 'Udomxai'?. This was Angelica's destination.

'Can you wait until I get my luggage?'
'15 minutes'.

Deal was done, other travellers promising to wait for Angelica, and the Aussies doing the same for me on the way back to Nong Khiaw.

When I got back I was shouted over to my pickup which was jam packed and fully loaded, and Angelica's was ready to go. I've never found out if she made it to Udomxai as her driver seemed to criss cross our path several times getting out of the two street town! I settled into my four hours of hanging off the back, as always the best way to see the place, and get a tan at the same time. This journey was a bit sketchy at first as you could see the tilt of the pickup as it rounded corners - you're sheilded from that inside. The Aussies sounded concerned for me every time we stopped but I was happy as Larry (who is Larry in that saying anyway) having a whale of a time. Gladly the driver seemed to calm down after a few small screeches going through a town, and I had an interesting chat about teaching in Korea with a Canadian.

After trying a few places I ended up back at my Pathoumphone, the same accommodation as my previous visit to Luang Prabang, and felt like I was coming home!

I knew Jane, one of the Project Managers from Raleigh may have been in town around now so I dashed to an internet cafe to send a quick email incase she picked it up that day. An hour later I had a reply, and we were sorted to meet at my 'just in case you are in town' destination at 7pm. I bumped into her on the way into town, sorted her out at the same accommodation as me, and we headed out so I could show her this place I raved about, the night markets, the Lao Lao bar, and of course, another trip to the Vietnam Bar after hours.

This time the Vietnam Bar wasn't as welcoming as they had just had a police visit. After a little pleasant negotiation I was allowed to carry on my celebrations with the 6 people effectively having an illegal lock-in. All of a sudden I seemed to get a bottle of Thai Whisky which was finished rather rapidly as my new found Dutch friends appeared to help themselves safe in the promise they'd buy the next one, and we had good chats with a few Irish lads. My first disagreement happened with the Dutch prick when he backtracked on his witnessed statment...so I bought another bottle!

A late night was had by all, but luckily this time a tuk tuk took us straigh back to the accommodation, bypassing the need to find a friendly local to give me a lift around town on his motorbike like the last Vietnam Bar outing......

Muang Ngoi Neua

Probably my favourite picture of the whole trip - a small girl on the boat to Muang Ngoi Neua, capturing our interaction perfectly :


Despite getting up early considering our travelling, we took a while to have breakfast and stuff so didn't get the boat until around 11am. Of course we chose to ignore the ticket seller that said there were no boats back after 2pm, I mean how do the locals get back?

We headed off on our own small trek as described in 'The Book', the Lonely Planet. We ended up walking past a small cave (didn't stop - all caved out), rice harvesters, and ended up at the Hoy Bor village - obviously quite well visited as there were signs up along the trail, erected by a couple of enterprising locals. As it was still officially low season we were pleased to walk past only two others on the way, and only cross around 7 tourists in the village. Of course we prompted to eat and drink at the restaurant with no-one else in it, and a selection of food to match. The owners were very interested though and surrounded us, asking us to fill out the guestbook with praise for their place, and to try and coax some visitors in. The balloon trick was used when the kids came up, and before we knew it, Angelica and I had infalted the remainder of the balloon pack, and the village kids were dancing around with multi-coloured balloons lighting up the village. Mothers even came carrying small children asking for balloons for them. I also left one of my scotlandswildplaces.com postcards behind and pointed where it was on a map.

We had a fantastic time there, staying long enough to know we had sacked off any chance we had to get us back to Nong Khiaw for the night to reacquaint us with our luggage left behind, and the guesthouse owners who maybe wouldn't even spot we weren't back, but it was well worth it.

We got back to town just before darkness, had a quick glimpse to see if there were any boats. We had been offered a charter back when we got off earlier, but it would be $20. We rapidly decided that paying $20 for a boat was way too muchover paying $2 for accommodation twice. We secured another $2 accommodation of similar standard, but this time with a hammock on the balcony overlooking the river, and right next to the boat landing. Another night was spent discussing world history and german policymaking with three other complete strangers.

There had been signs for a Muang Ngoi Neua version of a full moon party a local had arranged to 'help me with my school fees'. When we realised there was a $10 charge for the riverside bonfire and far more on offer ;-> we decided to stay and eat food, as did everyone else who had apparently signed up, as the organisers became our friends for a while. I had already made my mind up that despite paying two times for our accommodation, I had effectively saved $16 by not taking the boat back, and I was determined to drink as much of my saving as I could.

Of course this resulted in me convinced it was a great idea to don my iAudio MP3 player and my jacket and crashing out on the hammock, taking in the scenery with some 'me time'. That was until I woke up at 1am with a few mosquito bites on my foot and decided I really should go to my real bed.

We caused quite a commotion in the village with the balloons :






Me in a paddy field en route to the village :

The main street of Muang Ngoi Neua - only accessible by boat, so no vehicles :

The view from my hammock :

Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw journey pictures

I've muddled around a few pics, but here is the view from our accommodation in Nong Khiaw here :


Here is more commotion caused by balloons during a pit stop on the journey :


And there is a view as the bus rose out the valley from Sam Neua :

Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw

Market vendor in Sam Neua :

The kid I made cry when pointing a lens :



The group all caught buses early in the morning - all the other guys heading to Vietnam, and Angelica headed to Nong Khiaw with me on her way to cross up into China. We visited the market briefly to see all kinds of fruit and vegetable for sale, and rapidly departed after I went for a cracking shot of a tiny kid at a stall, which instantly sent her to bawling and tears as the lens pointed at her. I did ask someone first so didn't feel too bad, but luckily, Angelica's trick she practised well in Vietnam and Cambodia got me through it - blowing up a balloon for the child, already rescued by her mother. As soon as westerners approach some of these kids they give you looks, so it had to be left next to the stall, but it was smiles all around as her mother picked it up for her. I'm going to use that tool in the future! (I'm writing this in Vientiene a couple of weeks later and have already secured two bags of balloons!). We also saw our 'Orange truck guy' who gave us a lift last night selling his goods, minus the ones we ate on route and the ten or so I nobbled at the end.

The eleven hour bus journey was great lasting 8am to 7pm, a good few hours longer than expected. We passed through superb terrain, rishing up through the morning clouds, passing through amazing villages and waving to the locals. Luckily the bus was half empty so we had loads of space to wonder around, open windows, take pictures and the rest. We listened to tunes, read books, chatted, and laughed as the kids closer to Nong Khiaw started to scream louder as the bus passed through their village, it's pretty much a lifeline here. Again, we were the only tourists on the bus. I was given a South East Asia phrasebook (thanks Angelica - note to self - use it more!!).

The villages were real rural Laos. This was another journey I wished I was undertaking by motorbike. I would have stopped more, but travelled faster, probably balancing it out. Under or next to several houses in the villages, they were dying material and weaving, and going about their daily lives, drying chillies and other foods on the woven roofs.

We got to Nong Khiaw in the dark, and glad we did. It's weird how it's different strokes for different folks as I was told I could maybe miss this place out if heading to Vang Vieng. Angelica and I were a smiling walking across the bridge as the mountains around us were lit by the strong moonlight. We settled for the second accommodation we looked at (Pha Noi guest house (I think!) right next to the end of the bridge with the restaurant the first thing you see) and shared the $2 charge for our bamboo hut looking towards the river (albeit beside the main bridge over the river), and settled in for some well deserved food and beers. The accommodation was nothing more than a bamboo shack with fan and balcony, but nothing more or less than we required.

I had made it almost back to Luang Prabang in record time, only a few days elapsed since I left, and now only a few hours north of the place. I had been thinking about heading north with an Irish lass Claire, and a couple of Scottish blokes she was travelling with. I wandered if they had now passed through and went to Luang Nam Tha, or to the Gibbon Experience, but was glad I had opted for the trip I did, and glad I never went back to Luang Prabang. As happens in trips like this, who walked up the steps, but Claire. They had moved north and were taken in by the quietness of Nong Khiaw and had stayed a few days, opting for a day trek to village and a waterfall which she was buzzing about, and a cycle along the main road which ended up with them playing cards with local kids by the riverside. After a quick catch up Angelica and I headed to speak to the guide they used, at 9.45pm!

We spent 45 minutes with the poor guy discussing options for our next day, and haggling hard (they got their day for $15 but ours,a bit more complicated, with only two of us was going to be $25). We debated over a beer and decided we'd do it ourselves. When we went back, the price dropped to $15, but we stuck with it, returning again to say we wouldn't be there at 7am to tell him whether we'd go or not. It was a shame as the guy was super friendly. If you go there, head to the turn off for Sunset Guest House (on the East end of the bridge), and directly opposite there on the main road is a yellow sign for a tour guide - pop your head in.

Sam Neua and Vieng Xai Caves

Me arriving in a chilly Sam Neua after the overnight bus journey :


Unloading the bus at Sam Neua :



In our drowsy states, we caught a share taxi (Sawngthaew) to Vieng Xai. As you'll know I catch these everywhere. The world translates to 'two rows' describing the the rows of seats laid in the back of the pickups - typically old Toyotas with a metal cage on the back making the seats, roof, particularly the roofrack, used to transport all sorts around Laos, and a small standing area off the back.

We got there a bit late so had to arrange specific tour for us, and hire pushbikes to move around in a short space of time.

The main cave here is Tham Than Souphanouvong where the 'Red Prince' of the same name used to hide during the Indochina War. Army officers and others used to meet and stay here, sheltered from the bombing around the area. We got told a load of historical information from the guide, but I won't pretend to remember it all. Apparently there are around 102 caves in the area there's been a bit of confusion whether they were a military secret or tourist attraction until recently (i.e. within the last 15 years).

Although there is less history attached to this site, we all found it more interesting than the Plain of Jars. Whether it was worth two days on a bus is up to you, but most of this group were continuing to Vietnam, and the border is very close to here. Vieng Xai is a picturesque wee place though, surrounding by limestone cliffs with a small lake in the middle.

By this point in travelling, the journey becomes as much of the trip as the destination to be honest. Just to back this up we had another adventure! The tour guide assured us if we missed the last sawngthaew back to Vieng Xai we could share a lift back with him for the same cost as he was teaching English in Sam Neua. Unfortunately the class had been cancelled that night and there was a $15 taxi waiting for us. You pay around $20 for a half day trip so we were clearly being taken advantage of a bit, but hey we weren't going to let that stop us.

Angelica sprinted on the back of his moto to the bus lot, but we had missed it. We bodyswerved the taxi and walked up there, ready for some hard negotiations with locals. We asked around and people who said they'd take us, then decided not to after speaking to the original driver. Eventually we stopped an orange truck...now this wasn't an orange coloured truck, it was was a truckload of oranges. He agreed to take us for $6 as he was heading that way. The original driver intervened so we said we'd give him $10. The original driver was trying to intervene again so we told him to back off - "He get's money, we pay a fair rate and don't get ripped off, everyone's a winner".

By this time, half the people around the bus lot were watching. We knew we were sitting ducks as we had no transport. A local guy got off his moto and asked what was going in, found out the situation, spoke to them in Laos, and confirmed the price we were willing to pay the truck driver.

Thanks to that guy, we boarded the truck and said bye to the guy trying to take advantage of us. I thanked the local who seemed very keen to speak to tourists and ensure they enjoyed their visit to Laos, so I told him he was very kind and thanked asked him not to let the locals get more into the rip off mentality sometimes witness in other SE Asian countries.

(All aboard the orange truck :)


The truck driver was great. Both parties were happy with the resolution, and so much so he invited us to help ourselves to the oranges in the back - 4 of us inside after the oranges were pushed back, and myself and Owen perched on the back. We got some funny looks from the locals and plenty of waves and smiles.

The perfect way to travel.

A view from one of the caves :

Me on the crap bikes we had to hire (ok we could have paid more and got a mountain bike) :

One of the cave tunnels :

Plain of Jars

I spent today going on a tour that cost myself and another girl $18, and the two other girls in the van $6, and I didn't even see the town I wanted to see where they have houses built using old bombs etc. I wasn't willing to pay the extra $15 he wanted so am splitting town on the overnight bus tonight...heading to another 'beautiful scenic' area, but ready to be disappointed. I had it out with him about him ripping us off, but he had his money so I'll just go away and bitch about him. Anyway, short post as it feels like I need an elbow to push this keyboard down....oh yeh, and in my 'No Holds Barred' SE Asia guide...Phonsavan has nothing as a town.

Plain of Jars :


Lao Lao brewing from sticky rice....knock ya out! :

Phonsavan to Sam Neua

After one night in Phonsavan I was keen to do an overnight bus trip out of there rather than face another night there. Despite this, my sister had been on the phone after visiting Nong Khiaw and she never thought I'd see better scenery than there and Vang Vieng. Even an hour before I had to get to the bus station I was debating whether to use my prebooked ticket or not (again, a hefty cut taken from the Phoukham Guesthouse). I went for my original plan, then it was bolstered by bumping into a group from our Luang Prabang bus that were doing the same.

I met them (Francisco and Mauro from Argentina, Angelika from Germany, Owen from England, and Nick from Boston) again at the bus station, and got to know them pretty well while waiting for the bus. This bus was doing a complete trip from Vientiene to Sam Neua - a beast of a journey of around 20+ hours. Due to this, it didn't turn up at 7.30 as expected so we waited. And waited. And waited. Put on more warm clothes (well, the few I had not posted home). And waited. It was cold in Phonsavan at night, like Scottish cold. Eventually after a few sandwiches and coffees later, the bus turned up at 11pm, and we burst into lively (nervous) hysterics.

I had already got used to buses being pretty overloaded in Laos, and Asia in general, but this one turned up with the rear six rows full of boxes and luggage, full of people, including the several sitting in the typical kids-style mini plastic seats deployed in the aisle. And at least 5 motorbikes, plus all the other luggage strapped on the roof.

Where were we going to fit in?

Just as we were about to load our luggage, a second bus arrived which was one third empty. There was no choice as we scrambled onto the second bus, milliseconds after confirming it was bound for Sam Neua as well. That was only after I had taken a photograph and watched my open camera drop to the ground from my wrist. I had nothing else in my hands, no excuse. I was gutted. My second camera within two months, and it was only four weeks old. As happens in travelling, you realise there's nothing you can do about it, so you just have to carry on.

The 9 hour bus journey wasn't the comfiest in Laos, as the road was quite twisty and I couldn't really stretch my legs out. I was sitting next to a local who used my shoulder as an occasional headrest. The other five were sprawled out on the raised back seat, however it turned out they weren't as comfy as they looked either. My stuffed paclite jacket didn't prove to be an effective bum rest either.

We arrived at 8am in Sam Neua and it was even colder than Phonsavan. We were all pretty knackered but decided to get some food, and go straight to Vieng Xai rather than take a wee nap. It was refreshing to meet this bunch as there was no hassles - straight into a shared room to cut costs, and laughter all around. Despite them travelling together for a few days I wasn't left out of it at all, so cheers guys if any of you read this.

Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars

I spent today in a bus for 8 hours travelling from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan to see the Plain of Jars. I'm not too fussed about this really, but I am passing through so couldn't not go. I'm on my way to see some caves beside the Vietnam border where they hid during the American bombing campaign they are still picking up the pieces from. Around here there is still loads of unexploded ordnance being cleared, largely supported by MAG from the UK. I think I'm doing a whistle stop tour tomorrow, and head to a Mong village to see where they have made some houses from parts of ordnance.

I think I'm going to tortue myself and come back from the tour and straight onto a night bus to Nam Sua (maybe spelt incorrectly) to save me a day as I already feel badly short of time for stuff I want to do. I could easily kill a month in Laos!

Luang Prabang to the Plain of Jars, Phonsavan

I left Luang Prabang for Phonsavan a day after after my sister left Luang Prabang. After multiple options of where to head to I decided to stick to my original plans and got the 8hr daytime road trip to Phonsavan, arriving just in time for dinner. At lunch we stopped briefly in a transit town where I ended up chatting to Cecile from France, well, the French Reunion Island off Madagascar. She was to become my travelling partner and fellow conned merchant for the next day's trip to the Plain of Jars.

Phonsavan is a pretty, well it's fair to say, dead town. There's on strip with guesthouses and a few less than outstanding restaurants. And it's cold (at least it is in October, but not as cold as other places in Laos). We stayed in Phoukham Guesthouse which turned out to live up to it's phonetic English sound (alberit slightly manipulated) - "F*ck'em". We paid three times as much as the other two girls on our tour the next day, and he refused to take me to the town I really wanted to see (he wanted an extra $15 each for that, despite already paying $12 more than others). After some negogiating (pleading) I decided to bin visiting the town over giving him extra cash so left Phonsavan a tad disappointed as I never managed to see the town that has houses constructed of UXO (UnXploded Ordnance) stilts. About the most interesting thing about Phonsavan, but in a very sad way, is that it's the home of the UK based MAG group that tries to find UXO in the area, which was the most bombed in recent wars. Their office only pointed me to the website when I asked about volunteering and how you went about it. They must be well funded though as they had a load of flash 4x4's outside.

Oh yeh - the Plain of Jars...is it worth the trip? If I had known I probably wouldn't have done it, but I did as it was on my way to Sam Neua / Vieng Xai and it broke up my journey. Our tour guide didn't give us too much background, but that's partially as their origin isn't totally understood yet. I'm sure it's of interest to many, but it is just a field with ancient rock jars on it, which are pretty weird in their own right.