America-mura shopfronts in Osaka, Japan

Nara and Hiroshima

I got up to go to Hiroshima this morning but decided to head to Nara for the day instead, and take the train over late afternoon.

(Picture : Nara tourism in 'low' season)   Again I was surround by schoolkids so I just had a pleasant walk around some temples and shrines but never went inside any of them.  Nara Park was pretty cool though - right in the small city, but full of Shika (I don't know how you spell this) - pretty much Deer if you are British.  They are so used to tourists (over?)feeding them that they just mingle around right next to you.

 

 

 

I had passed so many of these prayer block in shrines that I decided it was my turn to leave them.  I'm really bad at thinking up instant wishes though so this one was a bit corny!

 

(Picture : Sin-Osaka station taxi rank!)

I caught the train to Kyoto (faster than heading back to Osaka) to get the Shinkansen.  As I was writing up some travel scribbles I had a flashback that somehow I never had my USB drive I have been using to email.  A quick check and I reckon I left it in the PC at the capsule hotel.  I hopped off the train at the next stop, immediately caugh one heading back (erm, assuming it was the right one), and found out the JR trains to Osaka had stopped running - I'm guessing something happened as it was still early.  I called the place and they reckon they never saw it.  He spoke good English so I decided to cut my losses and head back to Kyoto, loosing 2 hours in the process.

A quick Bento box for my on train dinner and before I knew it was transported to Hiroshima on the Shinkansen.

So tomorrow it's the Peace Park, the A-Bomb dome and if I get lucky I'll manage to pop over to an island before heading to Beppu in a couple of days.

Osaka crazieness and Asahi Plaza Shinsaibashi capsule hotel

After the aquarium I checked into my capsule hotel at Asahi Plaza Shinsaidbashi.  But more of that later.

I was going to have an early night but headed out to explore the nightlife area of Osaka.  Apart from being seduced by an outdoors shop after popping in for a brolly, I wandered around the eating, drinking and shopping area.  As the sun set it all became pretty overwhelming.  So much going on, so much noise from people, some touts, pachinco parlours and so many eating and drinking joints.  It was the first time I've felt like that in Japan so far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All I wanted was a nice little busy yakitori bar.  There were hundreds.  I got fed up looking for one and walking around the same streets to opted for some Takoyaki - octopus balls.  They like balls of dough (kind of) with bits of octopus inside them, along with some vegetables or something.  I don't really agree with eating them as I'm convinced Japan is trashing the world's population of octopus!  I then found a quiet bar and sat and read an English language freebie magazine, Seek Japan.

So, on to the capsule hotel.  A very bizarre thing, but a very Japanese thing.  The one I went to was bang in the centre of Ameri-mura, or America-mura which is a shopping (and eating/drinking area) where all the shops have an American (or perceived American!) vibe to them.  I'll upload a small slideshow with some shopfronts.  Quite funny walking around there and just people watching.  I'd defintely recommend this place as a good one to try out the capsule hotel experience though as it's in a cracking area.  I went to the capsule hotel, changed into the robe I was given, then headed down for a Japanese style shower, hot bath (like a hot tub type thing) and a sauna.  I then retired to my capsule and almost read the rest of my book.  I had a radio and a television, complete with pay per view porn...if I wanted it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Picture : The capsule 'command centre' and the TV)

My book was so gripping (Dan Brown - 'Angels and Demons') I ended up coming out of my capsule (but that was because of the snorers) and having a beer to knock me out.  2am.

Osaka Aquarium

Yesterday I went to Osaka Aquarium which has one of the largest tanks in the world.  The had a frickin' whale shark and manta ray in there!!!!!  And loads more.  Very diferent from the Sydney Aquarium, which I think I preferred, but very good to see all the things.  I wish I had brought along my earplugs though as there were about 2 billion Japanese miniature schoolkids in there at the same time screaming away (at least it sounded like 2 billion, all wearing bright pink or bright blue, or donning some coloured cap).

They also had king size crabs which looked like mutants.  The appeared to be almost the same size as me (no kidding) and they have pressurised the tank to simulate the depths they usually live at.

 

One good thing about the aquarium was that I realised how much I have managed to see underwater this year.  I was even lucky enough to see an eagle ray in the flesh at the Poor Knights....and the manta was far smaller than the ones I dived with :-) ....and the whale shark was a lot smaller than the one I could have snorkelled with if I didn't turn back to the boat thinking it had left the area (AARRGGG!)

 

Once again I'm happy to be travelling outside the main tourism season as it's busy enough at some places at the moment.  I'm sure the cherry blossoms make some of the places amazing, but it must be absolutely mobbed!

Japan is dangerous place for me

In regards to outdoors shops.

Anyway, I'm sending this from my first night in a capsule hotel. I've just been wondering around the nightlife area of Osaka. I've had my first sensory overload experience since arriving in Japan. Neon lights everywhere, bars and restaurants, Japanese youths pretending they are american homies, so many restaurants I couldn't decide.....so I'm about to go an change into my robes, have a shower/bath and retire to my capsule after 6 octopus balls and 2 beers.
I need to escape the cities here.
I was so not on the ball when I left rainy Kyoto that I booked my train tickets to Beppu tomorrow forgetting that I was going to Hiroshima for two nights (at the moment) en route. But with a Japan Rail pass I don' have to care - I'll just hop on the Shinkansen to Hiroshima in the morning instead.

What I'd like when I get home....the 'perfect' day?

I started typing this to talk about the food and experiences I'd miss when I got back, things I'd like when I get back, and things I'd like to be able to buy back in Scotland.  I kindof got carried away in a 'perfect day' scenario made up of different things.  It's raining outside and I should be heading to Nara.....I think I may need to put more work into this...

• For breakfast I'd have several warm Aberdeen rowies with butter and jam, and maybe one with syrup just to push the boat out
• ...washed down with a nice strong Laos coffee with sweetened condensed milk
• I'd then head out for breakfast for $2, maybe munching on a couple of feijoas on the way out the door.
• ...then decide whether I was going to the glacier or the beach for the day
• On the way there I'd pop in and find some knock off software and music I didn't really need but bought anyway....then I'd stop off at the handicraft shop.
• On the way I'd stop and take some photos of some really interesting people and laugh at the kids waving and looking at me strangely (hey maybe this is realistic ;-> ), while drawing a face on a balloon and handing it to them, communicating using some mangled form of sign language
• The locals passing me would honk their horn and say hello and wish me a good day despite not knowing me
• I'd check out the state of some online/investment/some kindof business that I magically started to see how my cash was doing
• After a great day I'll retire to a funky little yakitori bar overlooking the loch for some munchies, while drinking some Beer Lao, washing it down with a warm sake.  Of course I'd be sitting outside listening to some funky tunes I've never heard before while chatting to some really cool new people sitting at the table next to me.
• On the way home I'd pick up a hooker and fall asleep.
  (KIDDING!)
• Before crashing out I'd sit out on my balcony overlooking the sea, with the mountains in the background, watching for shooting stars
• When I woke up I'd have a stroll through the fresh food market picking out some stuff for a nice breakfast.
• Then go offroading in my 4x4 to reach a mountain bike trail.
• Of course the camping stuff was in the car so tonight is at a cool wee camping spot in the @rse end of nowhere at the side of a loch (lake for international readers!)....with some cheese and wine.
• After heading back and doing a little bit of work (god knows what, but its relaxed and enjoyable), I'll head out for a dive in the afternoon.

Yes, there may well be another version of this when I've had a proper think about it.

Yakitori Sukiyanen

So, if you've wandered what I'm blethering on about, here's the yakitoi place I went to this evening.....  a few dishes, a couple of beers, and a small hot sake.  Hmmm hmmm mmmmmm

Yakitori Sukiyanen by Kyoto Tower :

Hasami yakitori : Chicken and shallots

 

 

 

 

Enoki Bacon - Japanese mushrooms with erm.... you guessed it - bacon.

 

 

 

Cooking it up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the friendly crowd, but the guy who started speaking to me as I entered had to leave.

Kyoto street scenes slide show

Kyoto - Get on yer bike (and more shopping)

If you go to Kyoto, just accept what everyone says and don't faff around like me.  Hire a bike.  It really is the best way to see the city.  I spent a few days getting the bus around which was an easy way to get oriented but it takes longer to get around many places, and one a bike you can stop wherever and whenever you want and you feel a lot better for it.

Initially the maps may make Kyoto seem a huge city and it does appear like that at first (especially if you look at the multiple maps in 'The Book' (Lonely Planet)).

Today I was meant to head to Nara, but I had to go souvenir shopping and still had to see the Nishiki food market so that was my mission.  It was great, and I was great at it.  Which maybe isn't such a good thing.  The food market was interesting - lots of things I didn't recognise, and lots I did but have only seen in Japan!  I ended up leaving there and having a nepalese curry at the Yak and Yeti for a late breakfast / lunch.  I had a quick wander around the downtown shopping area and saw a really cool sake set, which was not as cool a price as I was originally going to spend...but I bought it anyway.  My spending habits seem to be going the other way nearer the end of my trip spending way more for some form of therapy about going home.

(Picture : Some £34 tomatoes..erm I assume they are tomatoes)

 

 

 

 

 

I eyed up a really cool Patagonia lightweight rucksack (like I need another one) then decided not to buy it.  Then I headed to the handicraft shop and spent more than that on not very much, and also decided to ship it home which wasn't cheap but seemed far less hassle.  So sushi candles (apparently the No.1 souvenir winner!), tea set, and sumo ornaments are on their way back mum!

I did dare myself and entered another outdoors shop but walked out empty handed after standing gawping at a Japanese trekking DVD fora  while.

I had to head to another temple after that, but on my way home and more side street exploration I found some hollowed out bamboo to be used as vases......something I was determined to craft myself in Borneo but never got the chance......so in they went to my rucksack.

Hopefully.......that's all my shopping done.

Tomorrow I'll be heading to Osaka and maybe a whistle stop side trip to Nara.

Johnnie Jazz, this ones for you mate

I'm really sorry but I couldn't get it in your size.  It seems your reputation and following has spread worldwide.  Check out the t-shirt I saw at a store in Kyoto today....

Even I would've splashed the cash for this for you, but it would have been way too small.  I was gutted.  I was browsing through some old style t-shirts in a shop and had to laugh when I saw this one.  Pure class.

Kyoto - the outskirts and the back alleys

I hopped on a bus a bit too late yesterday morning and went to the Arashiyama area in the North West of the city.  This area was really.....erm...cute.  Loads of old style buildings in narrow lanes, and bamboo forests resting in the foothills of the mountains.  I went to see the Adashino Nembutsuji Temple wich has over 3000 weathered stone faces from previous headstones (or something like that).

 

(Picture : Bamboo forest)

In the afternoon I met up with a couchsurfer and went to a tea ceremony.  Yuko was even more enthusiastic (and knowledgable) about Japanese culture than I am for going for a beer so came along wearing a traditional kimono.  Although it was an informal one (just as well for me!) Yuko was pretty good at explaining it to me, despite not being used to any kind of formalities or traditions usually!

 We then went for a big walk around some craft and gallery areas of the city, however by the time we got there, and it being Monday, most of them were closed.  We headed down some tiny backalleys  around the Gion area (more geishas and geishas in training), and around the Kiyomizu Temple which had all the lanterns lit up in the evening.  I've seen several geishas every time I've been there, but as usual I thought it would be an intrusion to  photograph them.  Now that I've seen every other punter be snap happy I never have my camera out in time.  Being with Yuko I had the training timetable pointed out to me - there it was out in the open, but I would have walked straight past if I wasn't with a local.

If you ever go to Kyoto you have to do sneak up the side streets.  You can see a lot wandering around, but to see the best parts, and the best handicrafts you really have to explore as it would be so easy to miss even many of the touristy areas. 

When you wander up the backalleys you see the fronts of many hostess and geisha entertainment establishments, and get confused at what is a normal restaurant or not.  There are some really cool looking places around but many of the cooler ones I guess would also mean a pretty cool price, if you could even get in as a geijin (foreigner).  The area is pretty lively anyway, as on the other side of the river it's pretty much the centre for the nightlife.

We met another couchsurfer who is temporarily based in Kyoto and went for some yakatori.  I got introduced to sochu, which is the japanese equivalent of vodka - some made with sweet potato, some with rice and some with.....some other stuff.

Another fab evening in Kyoto.  It's always great to meet a local person.  Thanks Yuko!

What did you do to save the planet today?

Jeez, that's a bit deep eh?  Anyway, I'm in Kyoto.  Yes, the only reason most people have heard of it is because of the Kyoto Protocol to lower worldwide emissions....which some of the biggest countries and worst offenders kindof ignore (hmm, I really should research this before writing).  So did you leave that tap running today?  The light on?  Throw the newspaper into the normal rubbish bin?

Tsk, tsk.  Read this story about an Alaskan town who's suffering because of melting permafrost.

The snow monkey videos are here!

If you want to watch a couple of pretty lousey, but cute videos of the monkeys from last week, have a look at the wanderingscotsman snow monkey video from the Yudanaka Monkey Park.

I've also added many pictures to previous posts from this week (e.g. me making soba noodles), so page down a lot, and I've uploaded the following galleries :

Japan, Tokyo

Japan, Nagano

Japan, Matsumuto and around

Japan, Kyoto

Kyoto days and nights

I'm at my third place of accommodation in three days, but it's great compared to the rest.  Of course, that wouldn't be too hard.  Last night I stayed at 'Kyoto Cheapest Inn' and it was clear why.  To be honest, the place was as expected, but it was a 20 person dorm, the showers, toilets and chill out area were downstairs, and the reception, beds and internet PC were all in one room.  Not nice.  For a couple of quid more I'm in the fantastic K's House in Kyoto.   I've also booked with them for their place around Fuji which is good.

(Picture : Gion traditional architecture)  Anyway, on initial impressions Kyoto is just another Japanese city.  Once you know it a bit better there are nicer greener or more traditional areas like the Imperial Palace Gardens, the Philosopher's Walk, or Gion, however it is hard to escape crowds completely, even in low season some places have many schoolkids around on tours.

I've went to see a few places but to be honest, like in Asia, as fantastic as temples are they just don't do it for me.  A fleeting visit is as much as I need, unless I took a book and could chill out in the gardens or whatever.  In saying that, they are impressive, beautiful and can have amazing gardens.

I'm more interested in finding out about the Japanese culture and speaking to people, but that's the part that's hard here.  I should have got a guide but I was never organised enough to know where I was going and when.  I went in to watch some of the locals paying Pachinco, a pinball type gambling machine of some sort.  The noise was incredible when I opened the door but I had no idea what they were doing and didn't even purchase any steel balls to play with as I couldn't fathom out what they were doing! (Picture : Pachinco hall)

I still laugh when I see the plastic food displays outside cafes and restaurants though - all kinds of displays are made to match the food - even plastic beers,or ice creams!

I have also managed (shock horror) to make up a list of my souvenirs to buy from the craft museum!

I even went to a traditional show at Gion Corner last night which was a waste of my £12 - yet again, nothing wrong with it (apart from all the seats in the theatre being at the same level ensuring a poor view if you weren't at the front).

Last night I went into a local type bar close to the lively Gion area (I keep getting taken back there) called A-Bar.  It was full of locals with some gaijin too.  I went along there because it was meant to have a good vibe, and  served yakatori style food.  So I ordered a beer, and some fab dishes like 'Avocado and sashami salmon with wasabi may sauce' and 'sashami makura(?) - tuna'.  Superb.

Just as I was paying to go, the locals whose table I was sat down at started pouring me some beer, so I ended up having quite a good laugh with them with broken English, and we got the beer pouring ritual going well (it's considered almost admitting you are an alcoholic if you fill your own glass....you may thin k I should have carried on but if you fill up theirs, they quickly take the hint ;-> ).  It was my second night in Kyoto and my second taxi home due to missing the last buses.

  (Picture : Kyoto Tower)  Today it was the palace, another temple and a chilled evening in the hostel, as it's the first I've stayed in in Japan that has a decent chill out area, similar to the hostels in New Zealand, but with a Japanese style.

Anyway, tomorrow it's the tea ceremony with the 'couchsurfer', maybe another temple (there are loads but I'm only going to see a few) then the next day I'll visit Nara for the day, coming back to Tokyo for the night, before going to Osaka the following day.

Japan Plans

For once I have made a rough travel plan.  I am in Kyoto until Tuesday night (and I still haven't really seen a shrine) then head to Hiroshima for a couple of nights.  I am them going to head to Beppu for some hot springs, and after a couple of nights there I'll go and visit Mount Fuji for a couple of nights before returning to Tokyo.  I've even booked accommodation!  Yikes - how organised.

First night in Kyoto

I toiled to get accommodation so will beon the move between places while I'm here.  That helped me have a bit of a brief lonely first night in a new city kinda feeling.  With only one thing to do, I went out and wanderered around Gion.  Unlike normal, after I stood around getting my bearings and finding out exactly where the bus had dropped me off, I popped into the Irish Bar to grab a pint and some food.

I was asked to move from my seat as a group reserved it, so I ate at the bar.  One of the group came over and apologised and asked if I wanted to join them, so I spent the rest of the evening drinking with a bunch of people studying over here - from Guatamala, Mexico, Japan, Canada, UK, France....  great evening.  Luckily they all disbanded before they went to karaoke so it was a short taxi ride home.

I'm off to wander around Kyoto today.

Kyoto

Oh well I woke up and it was pissing down today, so I'm now off to Kyoto, just finding it hard to get accommodation there at the last minute, but hey something will work out - got tonight sussed out. And got my tea ceremony and a walk round Kyoto area on Monday organised!

Google searches

I'm particulalry impressed by someone recently hitting my travel blog putting in the search terms 'labuan hookers'. Will need to check that out if I'm ever back there....

Japanese Alps

Well I'm kinda in the Japanese Alps National Park, or at least pretty close to it.
I left Nagano yesterday and got to Matsumuto. A much smaller city and the best vibe to it so far, even though I'm not doing very much there. I think the vibe is increased just having my own hotel room for a couple of nights.  It's cheap, but has signs of ageing, in particular the stereo in the room....
I pestered the tourist info place again and took a train to a place called Hotaka today, hired a very feminine bicycle and cycled to a wasabi farm, and had some wasabi ice cream, which was actually quite nice.

.(Picture : My lovely bike in Hotaka)

The most frustrating thing at the moment is having (very hazy) views to some pretty spectacular looking mountains, and not having the gear, or the people to do them with. There is still quite a lot of snow on them, and all the routes in the Hiking in Japan book are multi-day "jeez I wanna do that" kinda routes.
So tomorrow I am planning to get a bus to Kamikochi which is a superb place for hiking. Unfortunately it also has superb prices on all the accommodation there so no overnighting. Boo. I'm expecting pretty awesome views from there but will only be walking around the valley.

(Picture : The scenic part of the wasabi farm)

From there I may head back to Matsumuto, or ideally get a bus to take me onto a place called Takayama which is meant to have managed to hang onto its historic charm.

(Picture : Matsamuto castle)

In Kyoto I've made contact with someone there through couchsurfing who is going to take me through a Japanese tea ceremony on Monday, so that's where I'll be hitting on Sunday night and staying for a few days.

I got another mention in the The flightless writer blog today on the weekly tour and got a few extra hits, and an enquiry about travelling this area in Japan. All good.

I'm also getting more into travelling in Japan. When I was visiting the Monkey Park I thought I'd get pretty bored not meeting other westerners but I'm starting to enjoy pestering the tourist info people (while they speak English!), and making hand signal conversations (like taking my dirty laundry out of the bag to find a coin-op washing machine). I even did what I always feel I have to do in a new country....get a hair cut.

Anyway, I have some email catching up to do, but I guess I better make this stay in the internet cafe worthwhile. I had to 'join' for 200 Yen, show ID, get a wee plastic card as a member etc. before I could check my email. The net cafes here are as described though - drink and food machines, game lounges, overnight private booths, comics and magazines, and this one even has its own video room, table tennis and dartboards.

There is one bad thing though. There are good outdoors shops here.
Yesterday in Nagano I bought a titanium spork (only 3 quid), mug, and today I ended up buying a funky little outdoors mug just because it had a climbing karabiner as a handle..........I mean how cool is that!?

Oh yeh, and like I needed another top that's probably too small for me....

Anyway, sorry no pictures as I don't have my laptop.

Nagano Soba Museum

I spent another night in Nagano after seeing the snow monkeys. Helpfully the ryokan owner in Yudanaka helped me book it over the phone. I was greeted in an empty youth hostel by someone the same age as my mother, but probably fitter than me. She sat me down for some tea and gave me some cakes, and a home made banana cake (fantastic!). Despite being happy to wander around and get some food she pointed me in the direction of a cheap chinese noodle place half way back towards the station. Before I got my shoes on, she was leaving too. I quickly realised this was to show me the way, despite me knowing where she was sending me. I was almost jogging down the street, speeding up my relaxed holiday walking pace, to keep up with her.
Food ordered, and off she went, me slurping some soba noodles, and spending more time pondering the Lonely Planet, JR timetables, and generally not deciding where to go.
The next morning I took the bus to the Soba museum to get my hands dirty. After spending twenty minutes gawping at the snow covered alpine peaks in teh distance, I arrived and explained using pictures that I wanted to make some soba noodles. Ushered through the doors, I then spent a very entertaining hour getting a cooking lesson from a Japanese menu card using motioning hands, and speaking in different tongues.
I did end up making soba noodles though. Started with the flour, water, and a big bowl with chopsticks to mix it up, then a large rolling pin to roll it out in the correct manner. The best part was cutting my own noodles with a large sharp chefs knife, from a folded up 70cm piece of paper thin dough.
Sixty minutes later I was sitting down eating my own noodles after they got cooked for a couple of minutes.
The best part? It's not in the Lonely Planet, and it only cost 1000 Yen (around 4 quid). About the same, if not less, than it would to order your own in a restaurant.

Mind you if you got sucked into a buying a bowl to knead the flour in it would've set you back a cool $200 USD.

 

I then took the bus and went for a wee hike around a few shrines, but ran out of time to tackle the bloody steep forest track up to Mt Togakushi at 1911 metres. It was too hot and hazy anyway - when I arrived back in Nagano at 5.45pm yesterday is was 26c.
Before catching the bus back to get the train to Matsumuto I popped along the road while chatting to a Japanese woman, and went to the wood carving 'factory' where an old guy shaves bits of wood and makes them into amazingly cheap intertwined ornament. Unfortunately I saw something that was really funky, that would probably cost 35 quid upwards back home, and it was only about 6 quid I think. I ended up carrying this thing, the size of a football, away with me. God knows if it will make it to Bangkok with me, never mind Scotland.
I think that with my main rucksack, and my 'hand luggage' bag of camera gear, laptops and chargers I must be lugging around 35+ kilos around. Luckily I finished a book today....................!?!? Now there's a weight saving.
Oh I can't wait until I hit Kyoto and dump some stuff in left luggage. Dave, if you read this, Darren's little rucksack, which he gave me in exchange for my computer before I left, is providing me with a handy little day bag at the moment so pass that on. It's also 'done' New Zealand, and the Abel Tasman walk (although that bit was not with me).

I saw snow monkeys today (Japanese Macaques at Jogokudani Yaenkoen Monkey Park)

I feel I can leave Japan quite happily anytime from now.  Not that I feel I've seen enough of it, but I'm just over the moon that I saw the snow monkeys I really wanted to see here.  Small things maybe I know, but they really are as human like they say.  The pictures will speak for themselves.  You could easily see them get annoyed, jealous, help pick thingsout of each others hair, argue and more.

 

I guess I was very lucky to see lots of juvenile monkeys there too.  I never got to bathe with them like I thought you could, but then I never went to the onsen next to it either (which I'm kicking myself for now a bit, but it was still fantastic).  Highly recommended.

I was going to head back to Tokyo tomorrow and dump my rucksack but I'm heading up to the Soba museum, and maybe doing a big hike, but realistically I won't have time to come back down the same day.  I'm not sure where I'll head tomorrow night but I've pretty much decided after another day or so in Nagano I'm going to head back to Tokyo and leave half my stuff in left luggage and take the hit of £50 or so for ten days, and ease the pain of lugging it around.  I'm then going to head over to Kyoto.  If I'm back too late tomorrow I'm going to get my first overnight room in the internet cafe I'm in just now - 6 hours for around £8 UKP if you come in late and leave early, then I'll jump on the shinkansent to Tokyo, then onto Kyoto.  Oh the joys of a Japan Rail Pass.  You could feasibly come up to Nagano just to buy some souvenirs for the day if you wanted to.

Anyway, I'm waffling, check these pictures out, and far more in my snow monkey gallery.  All together now..... Aawwwwwwwwwww  (I did)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are sitting in the office you can check them on the monkey park webcam if you get the right time.

Nagano and Yudanaka - my escape from Tokyo

Last night I decided I was going to head from Tokyo as long as I got accommodation booked which I did, so off it was at the last minute to get the shinkansen to Nagano.

Like every other transport I've done so far (I stress so far!) it was pretty plain sailing.  I never required a ticket for this train (as marked on the JR timetable) but I went along a few minutes before the train just to check as it was the first time I used my pass.  Due to the location of my accommodation I never even had to pay for a metro today, and I decided to catch it from Ueno station rather than trudging through the main Tokyo station.

As soon as I was on my way from the hostel it felt great to be leaving the city.  As exciting as Tokyo is, it can be a bit of a pain in the arse even finding a building sometimes (e.g. main Tourist Information office tucked away on the 10th floor)

The train signs can be a bit daunting at first though........

 

....but if you wait around a minute or so they'll get a bit easier :

 

Just incase you are reading this and about to head to Japan, the train name is also shown for Shinkansen lines (and maybe others) as well as the destination, so take a note of both of them although if you know the time of departure that should be enough to.  And yes, you could set your watch by them.  Some trains have reserved and unreserved carriages, but you even know where to stand for your carriage in Tokyo - yes that's the number on the right above!

About forty minutes into the journey I saw snow on the distant peaks and passed my first ski slope, although there was no snow there of course.  A great feeling to be out and about.  I popped my overweight rucksack into the coin lockers in Nagano then headed to the superb helpful information office in the station. I decided to get a later train to Yudanaka and headed to the Zenkoji shrine in town.

 They apparently have the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan (in 552!) here.  You can also get the closest you'll ever get to the image by paying 500 Yen, and walk through a pitch black wooden tunnel  for 20 metres or so, groping the wall on the right until you feel something metal -the 'key to paradise'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I never go the spiritual awakening as mentioned in the leaflet, however (no disrespect  intended) feel a bit entertained by walking through a pitch black tunnel groping along the wall and not being able to laugh about it to anyone, or at least not in an understandable way, as I was definitely the only gaijin (foreigner) around.

 

Off it was to Yudanaka, luckily realising I had a train change on the way.  I got there knowing I would pretty much be the only visitor in town.  It's midweek.  It's off season.  I'm the only person staying in the ryokan.   Luckily the extremely helpful English speaking owner gave me plenty pointers to go with the information and bus / train timetables from the tourist office.  I guess I better milk this English help while I can!

Off for my dinner it was, unfortunately missing the hand made soba (noodle) restaurant as he had obviously finished his lot for the day.  These noodles are a speciality of the area, and I may try my hand at making them if I spend a while around the area.  It was amazing seeing them hand cut them in a Nagano restaurant window today.  Again I was the only person in the restaurant.

 

Seeing Yudanaka like this, it's hard to imagine it as the centrepoint for the 1998 Winter Olympics.  The snowboard park is just along the road (despite the winter trail map saying it is still full of skiing only areas!), and the downhill ski route about 30 minutes away.

I was out of the city into more of the 'real' Japan, however it may get more 'real' as I go on depending what route I take.

As if to cement my decision to get to the countryside I was treated by one of the reddest sunset skies I've ever seen, although the pictures don't show it justice.  I look out to a mountain view (through the electricity cables of course).  I headed back and donned my 'yukata' (light kimono) laid out for me in my private room (private hostel tonight!) and headed down to soak in the onsen in my birthday suit.

Anyway, I should stop writing such large blog entries - I should be reading guidebooks and leaflets and planning my route a bit.

Japanese food pictures

Almost everything in Japan deserves a photograph of some kind as it's just so different. Sometimes it's not that different to other parts of Asia, then some of the traditions, food or language come into play.  Whether all this is a good thing for travelling solo or not I'm still trying to get my mind round!?!?!  Here's a round up of some of the food so far....  I've still to find the Tamagochi restuarants....I mean Yakatori bars...but if you know what a Tamagochi is I wouldn't be too surprised to see them eating them somewhere!

You can't really get dehydrated too easily around the parts of Japan I've been to yet.  There appears to be vending machines for drinks all over the place. Unfortunately the coffee that comes out of most of them are cold, but here's a sample of the drinks on order.  Beer is available too.

Just incase you aren't sure what part of the animal you are ordering, sometimes you can get a useful guide :

At some of the food stalls at the Sanja Matsuri festival it was quite difficult to work out what was being sold.  Some were a bit more obvious though :

 

 

 

 

 

Anyone for octopus (above) or freshly barbequed fish?

 

 

 

For cheapo food, especially if you are away to board a train, there is always the bento box.  I had my first one today on the train from Nagano to Yudanaka, and it was surprisingly tasty.  A snip at 500 Yen (roughly £2.50 UKP).

 

 

 

 

 

I had my second sit down meal on my own today.  Yesterday I was able just to point at a picture on the menu at a place close to the hostel, but today I had to be a more creative.  Despite having the English name for them next to it I'm still getting up to speed (yes, it had the name in English, but not what it was). 

Local menu next to the Lonely Planet's food pages.

 

 

 

 

I've had my fair share of Japanese tea tonight in my ryokan, but they always have cheesy wee phrases in English on everything here.  It almost puts you off as you almost start laughing.  This was on the side of the insulated flask :

 

 

 

 

 

Of course you can get a few of the snacks you get elsewhere in the world (although I've noticed a distinct lack of chocolate in the grocery shops).  Here's a kitkat I just had to try tonight.  I recognised the taste, but I can't think what it was, but I know I'll be going back to the normal chocolate version next.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm sure I've got a lot more learning to come my way over the next few weeks.

Some more pictures from the Sanja Matsuri Festival and Tokyo

Here's some more snaps from the festival parade I went along to at the weekend.