Archive for June, 2007

Back in BKK

Monday, June 11th, 2007

I arrived back in Bangkok at 11pm last night.  It was 31c.  Today it is going to get up to 38c.  Jeez I forgot what it was like here.

My flight wasn’t the best.  I flew on United and it felt like going with a budget airline compared to my flights on BA and Qantas.  Only one big screen.  No entertainment system you can select yourself. Crammed in like sardines (not helped by the oversized lady sitting next to me which mean I couldn’t actually get my table down flat).  The crew spilt stuff on me as they popped ice into drinks, and opened cans next to me so that I could feel the spray in my face.  Still, at least they never questioned my excessive hand luggage.

I had a few wacky thoughts last night.  The wackiest was to try and find a flight to Luang Prabang in Laos and head up there for a night….ooooh I’d so much love to do that.  The other one was to head to the floating market a couple of hours north.  Four or five times here now and I still haven’t done it….but I know I’m just going to sit on my arse, meet a couple of Czech hitchhikers I picked up in NZ for a drink tonight, then do some extremely lightweight shopping tomorrow.  And sit by the pool. 

I love being back in SE Asia.  Cheap excellent food and a bit of a wacky vibe.  It’s only been just over three weeks since I was in New Zealand and it’s seems a lifetime ago.

No more hostels

Monday, June 11th, 2007

 

 

 

 

 

As much as I love hostels like K’s I’m glad to be sitting on my flight writing this, knowing that I’m not going to be in a hostel for a while. 

No more stinky people (or more stinkier people than me).  No more snorers.  No more people coming in late when you haven’t, or leaving early when you have.  No more inconsiderate bastards that even if you are sleeping they don’t consider it and rustle their carrier bags, speak, laugh and generally make a noise only because they can’t be arsed taking a few steps and doing it outside the room.

A slow last day in Japan

Monday, June 11th, 2007

I love it when you leave a country when it all turns to shit.

I woke up this morning with an inevitable hangover, probably the worst I’ve had for a bloody long time.  It was 9am and I was determined to go to a park today to see locals doing their costume play and take loads of photos.  Luckily it was raining very heavily so I never felt quite as bad when I rewoke at 11.40pm, with just a tinge of guilt for not checking out in time.  However, this is K’s House hostel…..they never minded, they’re superb. I once woke up early in my trip with a really vivid dream of running a hostel in Scotland which I’d love to do.  If I ever did it I’d want a similar vibe to K’s with people having similar thoughts about mine, and have an equally glowing comments book.

So all I did today was hang around, dodge the rain, go to 7/11 to get some breakfast, and journey to the airport for my 6.25pm flight to Bangkok.

It was quite a reflective journey to Narita airport.  Tunes on.  Buildings rushing by.  No more yakitori.  Bring on the green curry and finding the bar that sells Beer Laos. 

All that was interrupted as I realised I had lost a bracelet of the Cambodia flag that I had sat watch being made by a kid on the beach in Cambodia.  I was gutted.  Angry. I thought of all the pictures of him making it and the laughs we had while he did it.  Him using my SLR.  Singing into my MP3 player and laughing with his mates as they listened to themselves.  Walking him back along the beach after he stayed to try and do a Scottish bracelet. Irreplaceable.  I was almost screaming out loud in joy as I noticed in on the train floor in the aisle.  It made me realise all the more that it’s not the places as much as the people and memories that make a trip.

 Yes, that was Japan.  And it rocked.  Just as it was turning to shit with the weather, it appeared that everything was happening to remind me how nice a place it can be.  An old guy asked if I needed help while I looked at my last subway map waiting for the train.  Turns out he had toured around Scotland and stayed very close to my flat in Edinbugh years ago.  Two girls were looking at me lugging my 35+ kilos on the subway and started giggling when I clocked them.  The train snack selling girl counted out all my small change for me to pay for my drink. 

I’d love to come back again, see more of the countryside, go mountaineering, and have a budget suitable for me to blow on toys in Tokyo.

Plenty good people and memories 🙂 

Picture : Me being quite shocked that you had to pay for WiFi in Tokyo airport, although this being Japan, there were around ten different providers you could choose from.

50 YEN BEER SHOP!!!!!!!! YAAAAAAAAAH!! **AND** it was a Yakitori bar

Monday, June 11th, 2007

Yes I know my previous post never mentioned any big night out, despite it’s title.  But this deserves its own post.

After I got back from my last full day, the guys at the hostel had mentioned this 50 Yen beer place that no-one staying there had checked out yet.  There were around 8 of us piled over there, and it was true.  Yes, a small slice of heaven in Tokyo….beers for about 20 pence.  That’s cheaper than Laos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think they are only doing it for the month of June as an opening promotion, but if you are around the Asakasubashi station, it’s just round the back of MacDonalds and round the corner.

 So a selection of various yakitori and sushi was ordered, and several beers.  Superb night as I’d never done anything with any of the hostel crowd yet despite speaking quite a lot.

They were all headed for Shinjuku so I stayed for another beer, about to retire to the hostel for an easy night……

 

 

But as we all know the best nights are the unplanned ones.  As I got back, everyone was just about to head out to a local bar in Asakusa where the were the night before rather than trek across the city and have an all nighter.

Obviously I joined them.  It was a great lively place full of locals.  I ordered more food, got more bewildered by the singing and chanting at the table next to us (there was yet another festival on and they had been taking part in it all day), then it started at another table.  Eventually most of the crowd left, with a few of us staying on.

We moved to the noisy table and introduced ourselves to local crowd….eventually it appeared to be gone 3.30am somehow.  One of the guys with us had tagged on as he had an early morning train, but no accommodation booked.  Luckily the locals weren’t persuaded to go to Karaoke with him as I know I would’ve joined them.  They left, and left a whole bottle of sochu on the table (think of it like a Japanese vodka style drink, but that’s doesn’t describe it very well).  We took it and seemed to think it would be a good idea to neck a lot of it on the way back…..so wrong!!

A very late unplanned night, but a bloody good one to leave Tokyo on.

Last full day in Tokyo…and a very large unplanned night out

Monday, June 11th, 2007

I had a few things I wanted to try and see in Tokyo before I left, one of which was the waterfront area….but I never got there, and as usual did things on a whim.

So that is how I ended up walking around the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography. 

Luckily I had an interesting journey on the way there.  I stopped off at Ueno on the way, and had a quick stroll around the park, and thought what am I doing here…I could go to a park anywhere.  Unfortunately I walked through the old fashioned (or at least it seemed that way for Tokyo!) shopping area underneath the train tracks.  I noticed a Gravis sign (the home to some of the comfiest trainer type shoes you can get), had a peek and walked out with a new pair of footwear. 

I then stopped off in Ginza just to wander around.  Taking the exit through the Sony Building, I walked up the musical stairs, took a couple of photos of the crossing and thought, bugger this and got back on the metro to Ebisu. 

I walked out the station and did my cocky ‘I’ve been travelling for ages” and convinced myself I was walking in the right direction.  I quickly realised I wasn’t, but in the process was was walking around a residential area that had some really funky little clothes shops and cafes with none of the area in ‘The Book’.  A helpful Tokyo resident American (a non English Teacher – wow!) pointed me in the direction and I was soon walking through the exhibits of the Japanese Photographic Society and a Japanese photographer.

I then headed to Shibuya as I hadn’t been there yet and had my most Tokyo experience yet.  Standing with my tunes on, guidebook in hand, another helpful Japanese girl came to ask me if I needed any help.  If you want to through yourself in Tokyo head first, get the train to Shibuya at a busy time (erm, like late on a Saturday afternoon like me), walk out the station and gaze at the masses standing around waiting on people, and crossing in all directions when the lights change.  It was like a sea of people, and my picture above doesn’t do it justice.  Bizarrely there was a very un-Japanese protest.  I didn’t have a clue what it was about but an older Japanese lady next to me volunteered an explanation that it was against the war in Iraq and the government.  She assured me it was unlike the reserved Japanese, especially as people had travelled from many prefectures to join in the demo.

I then headed to the fantastic Tokyu Hands shop in the search for a wacky Japanese t-shirt, but found out they sold pretty much every kind of thing you want, or instantly find out you want but don’t know why, except clothing.  I walked out with a cool cliched souvenir of Tokyo – a cord to put on my mobile phone with a flashing Tokyo station sign – suitable wacky.

I was gutted I never found a really wacky souvenir t-shirt.  I almost bought one with a cartoon style character dancing on top of a big red apple with some random Japanese words while I was in Kyoto, but was sure I’d find one jumping out at me with no effort.  Oh well.  Quite gutted I’m heading back without one, so if you are in Japan, please send me one.  Probably a Large size thanks.

Tokyo toys

Friday, June 8th, 2007

I’m just glad Yodobashi Camera’s website is only in Japanese or I’d want to buy stuff on it all the time. 

I walked into their Shinjuku branch today and it was ridiculous.  Everything was in stock – all those things you kind of know exists in the UK, but that you can only see on websites.  They had compact cameras hooked up to  telescopes (I wanted one, I just didn’t know why), all kinds of lenses and accessories, MP3 players (although they still generally only have sexy little ones rather than traveller friendly ones), memory cards, hundreds (literally!) of different kinds of headphones, and basically whatever electrical accessory you could want.

Later I met up with an Irish lad I met in Hiroshima, hunted round for the perfect Yakitori bar in Asakusa…..gave up and ended up in a cracking ‘make your own on a hot plate’ okonomyaki bar…..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Think of it like pancakes, but you mix up some kind of dough mixture, raw eggs, cabbage, meat….toss it on a hot plate in the middle of the table, then add sauces and spices.  We sorted out the world of travel writing, photography, Myanmar, marketing….and all over a few draught Yebisu beers and a couple of sakes.  Wicked. 

(Picture : Evening in Asakusa)

Ghibli Museum

Friday, June 8th, 2007

After the fish market I headed off to the Ghibli Museum (NB : link is to a Google translated page).  No, I never had a clue what it was about either.  A few people in the hostel said he was a famous animator, with up there with, or more than, Walt Disney himself.  His museum is around for kids and the entrance has to be booked in advance so there are only a certain number of people in at a time.  “Anyone who can loose themselves in here is welcome” says the leaflet (or something like that).  Anyway, I went, I never had a clue what I was looking at – well I knew it was bloody good animation, and a good museum.

I’ll look into this guy more later.  Meanwhile, it was worth it just to have the ticket as a souvenir….. it’s like part of a bit of a film strip of his animations, framed in a cardboard sleeve.

I then went a wander around Shinjuku before and after and got a bit Tokyo’d out.

A holiday with a difference…..

Friday, June 8th, 2007

….was the title of the email I got this morning from a mate in Edinburgh.  Just as I realised I’ve overspent too much he’s invited a bunch of people to see if there are any takers to join him flying around San Diego while he clocks up the hours for his commercial pilots license!

Arrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg.  And how I love seeing things from the sky……

I also got an invitation to a leaving night in London which coincides with the day I arrive back in the UK….so close yet so far.

Tsukiji Fish Market Tokyo

Friday, June 8th, 2007

Somehow I made it to get up at 0545 this morning to head down to the fish market.  This isn’t any fish market, it’s the fish market for Japan, with one of the most varied seafood diets in the world, thus it’s the biggest fish market in the world.  Due to the light over here I often waken up early anyway, but this time I never went back to sleep several times.  (Warning : some of these pictures may make you feel queezy if you don’t like these things)

I thought it would just be another thing I’d go and see and wonder why I bothered, but it was really worth it.  I could have spent ages taking photos, but somehow I wasn’t convinced I had downloaded the snowmonkeys on my second card, so stopped.

There are all sorts of things there for sale, although I think by the time I got there a lot of the big fish had been….well, make smaller so to speak.

 

One of the funny things was trying to avoid the three wheeled carts they have down there for transport (Picture below).  There are hundreds, if not thousands, of the things buzzing around all over the place sometimes with stuff dripping off the back, and drivers cool as anything, maybe even smoking a cigarette on the move.  I’m sure they must curse all the bloody tourists milling around though.

I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves (hopefully!) but if you don’t get squeamish you can look at more in my picture gallery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course you’d have to enjoy some of the freshest sushi ever afterwards eh?  (I didn’t – too early for me!)

Essential Japan resources

Thursday, June 7th, 2007

If you are coming to Japan, you should try to get the Japan In Your Pocket series of guidebooks.  I’ve just spied one of them in my hostel and they’re great.  A completely different style to your usual guidebooks, but very entertaining.  The Today’s Japan one covers everything from how the trains work, through to transport and food.  There are books on different areas of Japan, and different parts of the culture.  I’ve found these books a bit too late, but think I’ll buy some of them as (more) personal souvenirs.  I’m not sure how easy they will be to find elsewhere though – luckily the guy in the hostel has found a shop that should have them in Tokyo for me.

For train timetables a fantastic resource is the Hyperpedia Japan Rail Timetable online in English.

I’ll try to put more online links once I get home (!) next week.